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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 31, 2014 18:39:38 GMT -5
I want to do some copper work. I understand that pripp's is good for that. I have read that you brush it on and I have read that you use a pump bottle to spray it on. So, which is it? And, I can use it with sterling, too, right?
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Post by Pat on Feb 1, 2014 0:29:31 GMT -5
Yes , it's fine with sterling. I've never used it. One friend uses nothing but; another says it is nothing special.
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Post by connrock on Feb 1, 2014 10:04:57 GMT -5
I'm not familiar with that flux but I would say that the method you use to apply the flux depends on the piece(s) your going to solder. If you have something delicate you apply the flux with something delicate,,,or a spray. If you have something that's big you can just have at it with a brush or even as some people do with paste flux,,,dunk the the whole thing into the paste flux.
I tried a yellow colored flux in a small spray bottle ,,,can't remember it's name,,,but I didn't like it and went back to Handy paste flux.
connrock
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 1, 2014 12:02:59 GMT -5
heres a description. users.lmi.net/~drewid/PWR_Pripps.htmlIt sounds like pripps is primarily used as a coating to prevent fire scale rather than a soldering flux. It should come in handy when annealing large pieces. Lee #2
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Post by rockjunquie on Feb 1, 2014 16:17:39 GMT -5
heres a description. users.lmi.net/~drewid/PWR_Pripps.htmlIt sounds like pripps is primarily used as a coating to prevent fire scale rather than a soldering flux. It should come in handy when annealing large pieces. Lee #2 Very good, thank you! That says abt everything one needs to know.
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Post by radio on Feb 2, 2014 10:26:56 GMT -5
I don't care for Pripps myself. If you want anti firescale, Cupronil in the spray bottle works well, but the old tried and true boric acid and alcohol mix works just as well if not better. Standard safety disclaimers apply as alcohol is flammable, so be very careful about not spilling the container or lighting the piece near the open container of mix For bezel joins and most jewelry work a flux bottle works exceptionally well Grrrr! I miffed connrocks quote AND photobucket didn't work! I think need a nap. google "flux bottle" It's a handy dandy 2 ounce bottle with a very thin and flexible needle tip to apply a single drop of flux or more as needed and where needed. I find it much better than a brush or spray for my projects
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Post by bobby1 on Feb 2, 2014 11:57:43 GMT -5
Some people swear by it , and I tried it a long time ago and I swore at it. It is hard to beat Handy Flux or other similar borax based fluxes. Bob
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gemfeller
Cave Dweller
Member since June 2011
Posts: 3,732
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Post by gemfeller on Feb 2, 2014 12:11:44 GMT -5
Cupronil in the spray bottle works well, but the old tried and true boric acid and alcohol mix works just as well if not better. Standard safety disclaimers apply as alcohol is flammable, so be very careful about not spilling the container or lighting the piece near the open container of mix I want to underscore Radio's comment about safety re: alcohol and boric acid. It's a great firescale preventative but can be dangerous. Alcohol burns with a near-invisible bluish flame and if you happen to drip a little on your bench or floor after flaming the piece you can start a fire without realizing it's happening at first. Ummmmm...don't ask how I know this. Avoid carpets and other flammable stuff near your work area. Special covered glass containers are available from supply houses for the alcohol mix. The cover's important because it can quickly snuff out flames if the alcohol inside catches fire. Its main purpose is to keep the alcohol from evaporating.
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Post by connrock on Feb 2, 2014 13:52:46 GMT -5
Yes an alcohol flame is pretty hard to see at times and another point is,,, If prepping multiple pieces make SURE that the tweezers,etc that your dipping the piece into the alcohol with doesn't have a flame still burning on it,,, And don't ask me how I know this either! connrock
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Post by rockjunquie on Feb 2, 2014 14:50:25 GMT -5
Yeah, I saw the alcohol method being discussed before. I don't think I'm ready for that, yet. My area is so cramped, I just know I would have an accident.
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 2, 2014 15:24:24 GMT -5
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Post by connrock on Feb 3, 2014 8:24:13 GMT -5
I've never tried Cupronil Is this different then the Cuprinol that's used on wood? Go ahead and laugh! LOL connrock
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Post by fantastic5 on Mar 20, 2018 13:58:40 GMT -5
Resurrecting an old thread here. I am using a mixture of boric acid and denatured alcohol as a fire scale preventative on sterling. I couldn't find pure boric acid and didn't want to pay shipping from Rio, so I bought roach powder that was 99% orthoboracic acid and <1% other. Here's my questions, is the <1% other dangerous (probably, right LOL)? Is orthoboracic the same? When I use the mixture and burn off the alcohol I end up with the fine white powder like I think I should. But then after I solder the piece, the white powder turns to dark brown little puddles in places. They do come off with pickle, but it seems to take a lot longer than just cleaning up extra flux. I'm placing a Rio order this week. Should I go ahead and get their boric acid and ditch the roach powder? Pat connrock Rockoonz radio gemfeller melhill1659 Drummond Island Rocks toiv0 radio
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Post by rockjunquie on Mar 20, 2018 15:03:04 GMT -5
Resurrecting an old thread here. I am using a mixture of boric acid and denatured alcohol as a fire scale preventative on sterling. I couldn't find pure boric acid and didn't want to pay shipping from Rio, so I bought roach powder that was 99% orthoboracic acid and <1% other. Here's my questions, is the <1% other dangerous (probably, right LOL)? Is orthoboracic the same? When I use the mixture and burn off the alcohol I end up with the fine white powder like I think I should. But then after I solder the piece, the white powder turns to dark brown little puddles in places. They do come off with pickle, but it seems to take a lot longer than just cleaning up extra flux. I'm placing a Rio order this week. Should I go ahead and get their boric acid and ditch the roach powder? Pat connrock Rockoonz radio gemfeller melhill1659 Drummond Island Rocks toiv0 radio Probably not helpful, but I have seen some others mention that it is a substitute, though I can't vouch for it.
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 20, 2018 19:08:06 GMT -5
Resurrecting an old thread here. I am using a mixture of boric acid and denatured alcohol as a fire scale preventative on sterling. I couldn't find pure boric acid and didn't want to pay shipping from Rio, so I bought roach powder that was 99% orthoboracic acid and <1% other. Here's my questions, is the <1% other dangerous (probably, right LOL)? Is orthoboracic the same? When I use the mixture and burn off the alcohol I end up with the fine white powder like I think I should. But then after I solder the piece, the white powder turns to dark brown little puddles in places. They do come off with pickle, but it seems to take a lot longer than just cleaning up extra flux. I'm placing a Rio order this week. Should I go ahead and get their boric acid and ditch the roach powder? Pat connrock Rockoonz radio gemfeller melhill1659 Drummond Island Rocks toiv0 radio Probably not helpful, but I have seen some others mention that it is a substitute, though I can't vouch for it. whats the difference between orthoboric acid and boric acid ... Best Answer: Orthoboric acid is just more correct name of commonly known boric acid, H3BO3, to distinguish it from metaboric acid, which is HBO2
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 20, 2018 19:22:07 GMT -5
Resurrecting an old thread here. I am using a mixture of boric acid and denatured alcohol as a fire scale preventative on sterling. I couldn't find pure boric acid and didn't want to pay shipping from Rio, so I bought roach powder that was 99% orthoboracic acid and <1% other. Here's my questions, is the <1% other dangerous (probably, right LOL)? Is orthoboracic the same? When I use the mixture and burn off the alcohol I end up with the fine white powder like I think I should. But then after I solder the piece, the white powder turns to dark brown little puddles in places. They do come off with pickle, but it seems to take a lot longer than just cleaning up extra flux. I'm placing a Rio order this week. Should I go ahead and get their boric acid and ditch the roach powder? Pat connrock Rockoonz radio gemfeller melhill1659 Drummond Island Rocks toiv0 radio I think the 1% inert ingredients is no big thing and as about as pure as you can get. I got a sale on cockroach boric acid for .99 a huge bottle, so i bought 10. The Rio boric acid I find is a little coarser and not as good as the other which is super fine. If you pay full price at the hardware store or walmart it is still way cheaper than Rio. Some things if they will fit in my jar I will quench it in the denatured alcohol mixture before the pickle. I made the prips one time and had it setting on my bench and had to leave for work, came back and it was evaporated. I threw away the pan and still use my boric acid and alcohol.
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Post by Pat on Mar 20, 2018 19:23:20 GMT -5
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Post by fantastic5 on Mar 20, 2018 20:48:22 GMT -5
Some things if they will fit in my jar I will quench it in the denatured alcohol mixture before the pickle. Thank you for all the information! I feel better about using my roach powder. If you are quenching the hot piece in the solution you aren't afraid it will flash ignite?
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 20, 2018 22:58:09 GMT -5
Some things if they will fit in my jar I will quench it in the denatured alcohol mixture before the pickle. Thank you for all the information! I feel better about using my roach powder. If you are quenching the hot piece in the solution you aren't afraid it will flash ignite? It never has, I ignited it one time by accident with my torch. Just put the cover on. Not like it will explode. I usually just use a peanut butter jar. I have a glass jar now with a hinged glass cover and an old time rubber gasket. I think the container should be big enough and set away from the edge that just a random bump won't tip it or knock it off. I have a fire extinguisher with in reach. When I first started smithing I learned to start with the alcohol and boric then quench in it. Then it went into a hot solution of the old spic and span to clean off the flux. Didn't work too bad. I think they changed the formula since then.
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Post by fantastic5 on Mar 21, 2018 6:40:31 GMT -5
Thank you for all the information! I feel better about using my roach powder. If you are quenching the hot piece in the solution you aren't afraid it will flash ignite? It never has, I ignited it one time by accident with my torch. Just put the cover on. Not like it will explode. I usually just use a peanut butter jar. I have a glass jar now with a hinged glass cover and an old time rubber gasket. I think the container should be big enough and set away from the edge that just a random bump won't tip it or knock it off. I have a fire extinguisher with in reach. When I first started smithing I learned to start with the alcohol and boric then quench in it. Then it went into a hot solution of the old spic and span to clean off the flux. Didn't work too bad. I think they changed the formula since then. Last week I did light my alcohol/boric acid jar on fire on purpose. I wanted to make sure I would be prepared, not panic and be knowledgeable about how to put it out.
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