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Post by Peruano on Aug 30, 2017 17:55:07 GMT -5
The user's manual says to fill the space around the worm/drive gear in the Highland Park 14/16" saw to 3/4 full with 80 wt gear oil. This is a 3 sided cup that bolts to the tank with two screws and although it has a gasket it looks like a system begging to leak. Did I say I'll have to fabricate a new gasket? For my money it looks like it does not need an oil bath and that a frequent dab of good grease and periodic inspection would suffice. The worm gear cover is open and subject to dust and other contamination so oil is unlikely to stay any cleaner than grease. Has anyone else paid attention to this oil reservoir recommendation ? When I opened this saw the worm gear was caked with greasy puddinglike combo of dirt and grease (now cleaned and awaiting a grease application unless someone has other experiences). Thanks in advance for input.
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mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by mikeinsjc on Aug 30, 2017 18:38:08 GMT -5
Automotive wheel bearing grease is all you need. This is a very slow speed, light load application.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 30, 2017 19:04:21 GMT -5
You are supporting my bias. Thanks for the input. My other saw has been running a similar worm gear with grease not very frequently renewed withot problems.I will seek out a heavy grease.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 31, 2017 0:25:03 GMT -5
I have a can of open gear lube I use for the worm gear on saws. The local saw guy reseals HP covers and uses gear oil but it seems a lot easier to me to give it a spray now and then.
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panamark
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,343
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Post by panamark on Aug 31, 2017 16:22:59 GMT -5
Tom, I had the same quandry. I simply put a bead of silicone caulk around the mating edge of the oil cup then attached it to the face of the saw tank. Don't overtighten. Let it dry for a day or 2 and you are all set. Pretty easy to make such nonload gaskets with silicone caulk. It has held the oil perfect for many years. HTH - Mark
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 31, 2017 20:31:51 GMT -5
Most auto makers use silicon gasket instead of gaskets. Don't use regular silicon caulking. Working around restaurants for many years it never held up around grease. Any auto parts store would have a variety of colors to choose from. I'm sure grease would be fine too. It would be best if it is sealed up either way. Around here anything with oil or grease is a dust/dirt/sand magnet.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 31, 2017 21:07:53 GMT -5
All good suggestions. I'll seal with silicon gasket sealant, because even grease will creep with time, heat, and an opportunity.
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panamark
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,343
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Post by panamark on Aug 31, 2017 23:05:30 GMT -5
Most auto makers use silicon gasket instead of gaskets. Don't use regular silicon caulking. Working around restaurants for many years it never held up around grease. Any auto parts store would have a variety of colors to choose from. I'm sure grease would be fine too. It would be best if it is sealed up either way. Around here anything with oil or grease is a dust/dirt/sand magnet. thx for that tip John. Yes I used the black stuff specifically made for gasket making. Not expensive.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 10, 2017 14:41:39 GMT -5
Just to update this thread, I consulted the HP (china) Utube video infomationals, and they indeed advocate sealing the cup with black Permatex silicone sealant and filling with 80 wt gear oil. So . . . I tried it and indeed no leaks to date and oil bath for the gear seems preferable to thick grease. A discussion with a machinist type, suggests that the constant oil bath may protect things better than a sporadic coat of grease that can be totally displaced by major pressure on small surface areas. At any rate John (JSGems) and Mark (Panamark) gave me advice in concordance with my trajectory. Saw working fine. Tom
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Post by Peruano on Nov 10, 2017 19:50:45 GMT -5
Not to wander too far afield with this thread, but it is heartening to find that Permatex black silicone goop is resistant to mineral oil and capable of sticking to metal surfaces and sealing spaces. This makes it desirable as a candidate in sealing edges of hoods and other leaking areas. I recently fabricated a top for an 14/16" old Highland Park slab saw from a "Rubbermaid" style plastic tub. The silicone would have been useful in sealing a couple of areas where holes were drilled or edges were shaped. $20 for a top for a slab saw was a bargain to say the least.
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