|
Post by rockjunquie on Jan 5, 2018 14:21:55 GMT -5
As a lot of you know, I used to not cab in the winter. I have complained often enough about it that minerken came to my rescue. He asked me to try out a new dop system he had been working on. After I tried it out we tweaked it just a hair and declared it awesome! If you want, you can read about it on my blog, too. Otherwise keep reading. My problem had been that I don't keep my house hot in the winter. It is comfortable to us, but the wax hated it. My preform would go flying. So, I needed a better way to cab. I can't use my hands because I generally keep longer nails and sometimes my fingers have psoriasis on them. Ken designed an aluminum dop system with a comfortable, easy grip knurled handle and the heads that go in it. It is similar to what faceters use and similar to one sold by DP. BUT, the DP one uses a screw type head. I had considered that one before I got Ken's, but I didn't like the screw. I often work with my fingers low on the stick, near the stone. The screw looked very uncomfortable. Ken thought of everything. The idea is to have a bunch of heads with preglued precabs ready to insert in the handle and lock down with a set screw. The first handle that I tried was incredible. I was cabbing away with no issues, but we talked about it and Ken decided to taper the head a bit to make it easier to clear the wheels at odd tight angles. That one works even better. I use just a dab of CA glue to secure the stone. What I have been doing is, after using the 100k wheel, while the stone is still pretty warm, I just pop it off the head. But, you can freeze (it takes a long time), or heat, or use acetone to release the stone. You have to make sure that the stone and the head are clean before attaching. I just wipe them down with acetone. I have tried various ways of dopping with no success. This system has really worked well for me. We are experiencing record cold, and I do mean cold, so my cabbing water has just been too cold for my fingers. I haven't been able to cab in a bit, but by Mon we should be back into 50. I'll do some more cabbing then. minerken is not doing this to get rich, but he is open to doing trades for it if you are interested. You can message him to discuss things. He'll even make it to the length you want. He is making them one at a time.
|
|
fishnpinball
Cave Dweller
So much to learn, so little time
Member since March 2017
Posts: 1,491
|
Post by fishnpinball on Jan 5, 2018 14:38:07 GMT -5
Looks great. Love the single handle and multiple head concept. Don't I remember a thread that joked about using a drill to shape round cabs?
|
|
|
Post by pauls on Jan 5, 2018 15:13:17 GMT -5
That looks like a great idea.
A length of heat shrink tubing on the handle might stop your fingers getting black from the Aluminium, or is it stainless? Either way heatshrink tubing would still be good for comfort.
|
|
|
Post by pghram on Jan 5, 2018 16:49:14 GMT -5
Very ingenious, and a lot safer than a nail.
Peace, Rich
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Jan 5, 2018 17:45:22 GMT -5
That looks like a great idea. A length of heat shrink tubing on the handle might stop your fingers getting black from the Aluminium, or is it stainless? Either way heatshrink tubing would still be good for comfort. My hands have never gotten black. I think shrink tubing might get slippery. That's why I like the texture on the handle.
|
|
|
Post by fernwood on Jan 5, 2018 18:35:57 GMT -5
Amazing. Well thought out. I have a similar set up for files. Never thought of using it for cabbing... Hmmmmmmm...
Am very glad you found something that works for you. I have what appears to be the same handle. The end where you are placing the various dopped rocks, is open, like yours. I had been wrapping the end of files with Dycium (a blue sticky mat, used for keeping items from slipping). Then inserting into the handle. This system should firmly hold the cabs in place and allow me to shape with the Dremel. Have a special set-up to keep the Dremel tationary which lets me move the cab. Well, in theory. Have yet to try it out, lol. Was waiting to develop a system for securely holding the cab.
Thank you for posting this.
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
|
Post by Tommy on Jan 5, 2018 20:12:25 GMT -5
... Ken decided to taper the head a bit to make it easier to clear the wheels at odd tight angles. Very nice solution, thanks for sharing it and good work minerken. What am I looking at in the last photo? Is the tip of the tapered area hollow for the head to slide in or is that the head? Edited to add: If not too much trouble (or a trade secret) could you show a "tapered" head exit the handle? thx
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Jan 5, 2018 20:25:32 GMT -5
... Ken decided to taper the head a bit to make it easier to clear the wheels at odd tight angles. Very nice solution, thanks for sharing it and good work minerken . What am I looking at in the last photo? Is the tip of the tapered area hollow for the head to slide in or is that the head? Edited to add: If not too much trouble (or a trade secret) could you show a "tapered" head exit the handle? thx Yes, at the tip is the hole for the head to fit into (the head being the piece that you glue the precab to). It is the same as the other one. He just tapered it down to a smaller diameter. Did I answer your question? I can get a picture, but really, it's just a hole. Not being a wise a**.
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
|
Post by Tommy on Jan 5, 2018 20:31:24 GMT -5
Did I answer your question? I can get a picture, but really, it's just a hole. Not being a wise a**. Thanks wise-ass... (just kidding). OK I think I got it it - visually it seemed like the end of the taper would be pretty sharp there but I'm sure it's perfect ... like you
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Jan 5, 2018 20:33:06 GMT -5
Did I answer your question? I can get a picture, but really, it's just a hole. Not being a wise a**. Thanks wise-ass... (just kidding). OK I think I got it it - visually it seemed like the end of the taper would be pretty sharp there but I'm sure it's perfect ... like you Awwwww, shucks. No, it's not sharp. There is a thick wall and the hole for the heads.
|
|
minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
|
Post by minerken on Jan 5, 2018 22:14:20 GMT -5
Watching with interest
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
|
Post by Tommy on Jan 6, 2018 11:47:31 GMT -5
minerken I would be interested in acquiring one of these devices if you feel up to it. I'm not very good at trading - I tend to give away the farm but if there is something that peaks your interest I could try.
|
|
|
Post by broseph82 on Jan 8, 2018 13:21:47 GMT -5
I’ve had the worst luck at home with any kind of wax or glue. Shop and water was always too cold for wax AND it seemed like I’d get half way though the stone and the damn glue would come loose. I’ve used wood dowels, nails, screws, etc etc and they all failed me. Started doing the pieces by hand and no more problems. I know as the OP had mentioned she couldn’t due to different reasons, but have you ever had it where the super glues, CA, or epoxies just didn’t work either... or was it just me?
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Jan 8, 2018 13:47:27 GMT -5
I’ve had the worst luck at home with any kind of wax or glue. Shop and water was always too cold for wax AND it seemed like I’d get half way though the stone and the damn glue would come loose. I’ve used wood dowels, nails, screws, etc etc and they all failed me. Started doing the pieces by hand and no more problems. I know as the OP had mentioned she couldn’t due to different reasons, but have you ever had it where the super glues, CA, or epoxies just didn’t work either... or was it just me? Let me first say, I really liked the wax. I only had problems in the cold. I haven't had any failures with glue yet- except for one, which was my own fault--- The head pieces that Ken makes have a slight concentric pattern cut into them to help with glue adherence. I had cut some of my own using 1/4" stock and didn't rough them up. As a result, I lost one. Overall, though, I'm pleased with the glue. Maybe you need to rough up your metal heads.
|
|
minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
|
Post by minerken on Jan 8, 2018 14:54:02 GMT -5
@brosheph82 I have had that happen too one of the reasons for the roughness of the concentric rings on the dop ends it gives what is called tooth for the glue to bond to for some reason the glues don't like polished or very smooth surfaces. One other factor to take into consideration is the temperature about 70 degrees for the glue to set and cure seems to be about right anything lower and the cure time is extended and in some cases never cures completely. I usually try to have enough dopped up so that they can cure overnight. rockjunquie seems to have it down to a science in order for the glue to start to release a little at just the right time.
|
|
|
Post by broseph82 on Jan 8, 2018 16:02:35 GMT -5
@brosheph82 I have had that happen too one of the reasons for the roughness of the concentric rings on the dop ends it gives what is called tooth for the glue to bond to for some reason the glues don't like polished or very smooth surfaces. One other factor to take into consideration is the temperature about 70 degrees for the glue to set and cure seems to be about right anything lower and the cure time is extended and in some cases never cures completely. I usually try to have enough dopped up so that they can cure overnight. rockjunquie seems to have it down to a science in order for the glue to start to release a little at just the right time. Everything y’all have said about smooth surface and temperature for setting sounds right. That was a couple years ago and since then I’ve learned to cab with just my hands and it’s given me more control and an overall feeling for the stone. When I start getting into opals and pricier materials I’ll keep you in mind for this!!
|
|
zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
|
Post by zarguy on Feb 7, 2018 18:35:25 GMT -5
I contacted Ken - minerken and had him make me 3 dop handles. I use nails from Home Depot that have a .27" shaft, so he made them to fit my nails. These 3 are the same, I just insert the nail partially or completely to get the different lengths. I've cut the nails down to 2 1/8". Haven't used them yet, but I like the feel in the hand so far. Lynn
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Feb 7, 2018 20:23:20 GMT -5
I'm still very happy with mine. Used them today, in fact.
|
|
|
Post by aDave on Feb 7, 2018 20:39:47 GMT -5
That's just great stuff. I love reading info like this, and I'm not even a cabber. At some point in time, I'd love to give it a shot, but I'm not sure I want to invest in a cab machine. Yeah, I have a shop near me, but it's small, and I'm not sure what it has to offer. Biggest concern is arthritic issues in fingers. That's probably been the biggest detractor, truth be told. That's kept me from looking at all into this aspect of the hobby. Maybe I'll just keep reloading shotgun ammo.
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Feb 7, 2018 20:54:27 GMT -5
That's just great stuff. I love reading info like this, and I'm not even a cabber. At some point in time, I'd love to give it a shot, but I'm not sure I want to invest in a cab machine. Yeah, I have a shop near me, but it's small, and I'm not sure what it has to offer. Biggest concern is arthritic issues in fingers. That's probably been the biggest detractor, truth be told. That's kept me from looking at all into this aspect of the hobby. Maybe I'll just keep reloading shotgun ammo. If you go to the little shop and see if they have a machine to try out, you might find that your hands can handle it. I have issues with my joints, too. Luckily, my hands aren't too bad, but I do have some arthritis in my fingers. And some embedded glass in 2 knuckles from decades ago. Long story.
|
|