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Post by rockjunquie on Jun 1, 2019 14:40:48 GMT -5
Didn't come with instructions. I have a few questions.
I painted my cement block and I am ready to put it on. I THINK the little "feet" have double sided tape on them. Is that so, and if not, I assume I use some goop or something to glue it down?
There is cardboard stuck in the machine itself. I assume it was for packaging. I take it out, right?
So, I just fill according to one of the many instructions I have gotten and turn it on?
edit to add: Another question- I got some new ceramic media. Should I run that by itself before I use it with rocks? Maybe that would be good for my first test run.
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Post by grumpybill on Jun 1, 2019 15:11:48 GMT -5
I won't have access to a scanner until Monday, but I'll scan and send you the manual then...if I remember. I ran my ceramic pellets through a full cycle of course grit to remove the sharp edges that could scratch stones during later stages. Don't know that it's necessary, but better safe than sorry. I bought my Lot-O used, so the tape had been cut off. I used double-sided foam tape.
Edit To Note: the recipe in the manual differs from what's typically used by RTH members.
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Post by aDave on Jun 1, 2019 15:47:12 GMT -5
Didn't come with instructions. I have a few questions.
I painted my cement block and I am ready to put it on. I THINK the little "feet" have double sided tape on them. Is that so, and if not, I assume I use some goop or something to glue it down?
There is cardboard stuck in the machine itself. I assume it was for packaging. I take it out, right?
So, I just fill according to one of the many instructions I have gotten and turn it on?
edit to add: Another question- I got some new ceramic media. Should I run that by itself before I use it with rocks? Maybe that would be good for my first test run.
Feet? Hmmm. In any event, there should be two strips of double-sided tape on the underside of the base. No other glue should be needed. Just an aside, based upon most instructions I've seen, pressure-sensitive adhesive (like that on double-sided tape) cures best over 24 hours. Because of that, I let mine sit undisturbed for a day, before firing up. Others may have had no issues by starting right away. That's just what I chose to do. If the cardboard is what I'm thinking of, remove it. It is just for packing. Also make sure the fans can rotate without rubbing on the nearby nuts on the frame. If they do rub, just pull outward from the nuts to make the adjustment. Fan weights should be in line with each other. Using a clock face as an example, make sure both weights are at 12 o'clock. Fans can be turned on the shaft to make the adjustment. What instructions are you referring to? The recipe here? Rob's videos show good examples. I processed my ceramics through a 120/220 stage for 24 hours. Not sure if it was necessary, but I figured it couldn't hurt. ETA: rockjunquie HERE is a fairly short vid about loading the tumbler. If you are doing flats, make your ceramics mix about 50% of the total load. If you are just tumbling rocks, about 30% ceramics seems to be a good amount to shoot for. HERE are the Lot-O instructions (retyped in a webpage). I'd frankly pay little attention to the tumbling recipes on it. The recipe (primarily) used here is more than adequate and not so convoluted.
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Post by rockjunquie on Jun 1, 2019 16:01:50 GMT -5
Thank guys! Yes aDave - the runners on the bottom. I assumed they had some kind of tape as we had discussed before. I'll use that and then glue if I have an accident.
grumpybill . That would be cool. But, maybe I should contact them and get them to send it to me. I wasn't actually aware that it came with a manual, but I figured it should.
I'll wait the 24 hours (makes sense) and then run my ceramics as my first test load.
Yeah, I will be following the advice here and from Jugglerguy 's shapes video and the loading video.
eta- thanks aDave- I remembered seeing that and didn't know where.
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Post by aDave on Jun 1, 2019 16:05:51 GMT -5
Thank guys! Yes aDave - the runners on the bottom. I assumed they had some kind of tape as we had discussed before. I'll use that and then glue if I have an accident.
grumpybill . That would be cool. But, maybe I should contact them and get them to send it to me. I wasn't actually aware that it came with a manual, but I figured it should.
I'll wait the 24 hours (makes sense) and then run my ceramics as my first test load.
Yeah, I will be following the advice here and from Jugglerguy 's shapes video and the loading video.
eta- thanks aDave - I remembered seeing that and didn't know where. I don't recall having runners on mine...just two or three strips of double-sided foam tape that ran across the narrow measurement of the base. Ahh, I was just going to ask if you saw the edit with the link for the instructions. Looks like someone simply retyped the manual and placed it on a webpage.
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Post by rockjunquie on Jun 1, 2019 16:07:17 GMT -5
Thank guys! Yes aDave - the runners on the bottom. I assumed they had some kind of tape as we had discussed before. I'll use that and then glue if I have an accident.
grumpybill . That would be cool. But, maybe I should contact them and get them to send it to me. I wasn't actually aware that it came with a manual, but I figured it should.
I'll wait the 24 hours (makes sense) and then run my ceramics as my first test load.
Yeah, I will be following the advice here and from Jugglerguy 's shapes video and the loading video.
eta- thanks aDave - I remembered seeing that and didn't know where. I don't recall having runners on mine...just two or three strips of double-sided foam tape that ran across the narrow measurement of the base. Ahh, I was just going to ask if you saw the edit with the link for the instructions. Looks like someone simply retyped the manual and placed it on a webpage.
OK, yeah, the "runners" must have been the tape. I didn't look too close at the bottom.
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Post by grumpybill on Jun 1, 2019 16:30:30 GMT -5
The link from aDave seems to be verbatim from the manual, minus the first page graphics. ("Manual" might not be an accurate description...it's all of 4 smaller than letter-size pages.)
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Post by oregon on Jun 1, 2019 16:52:51 GMT -5
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Post by grumpybill on Jun 2, 2019 6:24:46 GMT -5
The pdf. should be stickied.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 2, 2019 10:06:24 GMT -5
Sorry I missed this. I think aDave's advice is good. You might also consider filling the hole in the bottom of the barrel with epoxy. If you don't, you'll be digging ceramics out of there every time you empty it. I just twirled some on the end of a stick, lowered it in, and let it drip off into the hole until it was level. I just used whatever epoxy I had on hand from the hardware store. It has never come out in the seven years its been in there.
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Post by aDave on Jun 2, 2019 12:15:50 GMT -5
Sorry I missed this. I think aDave 's advice is good. You might also consider filling the hole in the bottom of the barrel with epoxy. If you don't, you'll be digging ceramics out of there every time you empty it. I just twirled some on the end of a stick, lowered it in, and let it drip off into the hole until it was level. I just used whatever epoxy I had on hand from the hardware store. It has never come out in the seven years its been in there. I tried the epoxy trick, and it didn't work for me. With the first cleanout, I found myself looking at an epoxy cone laying in the colander along with the rocks. Happened with both barrels. Maybe the depth of the dimple was different (or more shallow) than on earlier barrels. I've not had to do any digging out of ceramics. Just a good pressure stream from the hose cleans them out.
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Post by grumpybill on Jun 2, 2019 13:38:18 GMT -5
The pit in my barrel was already epoxied when I bought it from ChicagoDave. That was over 2 years ago and it's still holding fast.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 2, 2019 19:11:24 GMT -5
Sorry I missed this. I think aDave 's advice is good. You might also consider filling the hole in the bottom of the barrel with epoxy. If you don't, you'll be digging ceramics out of there every time you empty it. I just twirled some on the end of a stick, lowered it in, and let it drip off into the hole until it was level. I just used whatever epoxy I had on hand from the hardware store. It has never come out in the seven years its been in there. I tried the epoxy trick, and it didn't work for me. With the first cleanout, I found myself looking at an epoxy cone laying in the colander along with the rocks. Happened with both barrels. Maybe the depth of the dimple was different (or more shallow) than on earlier barrels. I've not had to do any digging out of ceramics. Just a good pressure stream from the hose cleans them out. I remembered that someone had one come out, but I forgot who. Now I know. I don't shoot any water into my barrels, just fill and dump, so I can't compare sticking problems. Mine was a real pain though before it was filled in. I ran some batches before filling. I wonder if that did anything to the rubber to make the epoxy adhere better.
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Post by aDave on Jun 2, 2019 19:22:54 GMT -5
I tried the epoxy trick, and it didn't work for me. With the first cleanout, I found myself looking at an epoxy cone laying in the colander along with the rocks. Happened with both barrels. Maybe the depth of the dimple was different (or more shallow) than on earlier barrels. I've not had to do any digging out of ceramics. Just a good pressure stream from the hose cleans them out. I remembered that someone had one come out, but I forgot who. Now I know. I don't shoot any water into my barrels, just fill and dump, so I can't compare sticking problems. Mine was a real pain though before it was filled in. I ran some batches before filling. I wonder if that did anything to the rubber to make the epoxy adhere better. I don't know, but ceramics cleanouts (digging them out) have not been an issue for me. Maybe manufacturing processes have changed how deep that dimple is. Without epoxy, all I am doing is hosing out the barrel. No digging is needed.
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Post by Garage Rocker on Jun 2, 2019 19:39:46 GMT -5
I did the ceramic dig out twice, the first two stages I ever did, and then filled that dimple with epoxy, like Jugglerguy told me to. That was a few years ago and I haven't had it come out yet.
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saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Jun 2, 2019 21:51:25 GMT -5
I did the ceramic dig out twice, the first two stages I ever did, and then filled that dimple with epoxy, like Jugglerguy told me to. That was a few years ago and I haven't had it come out yet. Ya, it's weird. When I bought my lot-o, I followed all the instructions Jugglerguy told me to fill the gap with epoxy. Did it on both barrels, no issues. Let it dry/cure plenty of time. After the 2nd week, both barrels' epoxy plugs came out. Filled them again. Same thing happened again a month later. I've left them empty now and I haven't had any issues getting stuff stuck or cleaned from the bottom. There must be a difference in epoxy, barrel material or just random (bad) luck Grant
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Jun 3, 2019 1:58:38 GMT -5
Holes in Barrels will vary in shape and depth. Instead of epoxy , Silicone rubber night work better, most RTV (Bath tub caulk has a tensile strength of 10,000 per square inch. Apply it to a completly dry barrel and let cure for a couple days if the Epoxy isn't holding. The 10,000 figure isn't a wild guess, I pull tested it in my shop !
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Post by Jugglerguy on Jun 3, 2019 6:07:45 GMT -5
Holes in Barrels will vary in shape and depth. Instead of epoxy , Silicone rubber night work better, most RTV (Bath tub caulk has a tensile strength of 10,000 per square inch. Apply it to a completly dry barrel and let cure for a couple days if the Epoxy isn't holding. The 10,000 figure isn't a wild guess, I pull tested it in my shop ! I wonder if the softer silicone will get grit embedded in it. I'm sorry I gave bad advice, but it really has worked well for me. I must have a deeper hole in mine. That would allow the epoxy to stay in better and me more likely to trap ceramics.
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saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Jun 3, 2019 9:49:29 GMT -5
Holes in Barrels will vary in shape and depth. Instead of epoxy , Silicone rubber night work better, most RTV (Bath tub caulk has a tensile strength of 10,000 per square inch. Apply it to a completly dry barrel and let cure for a couple days if the Epoxy isn't holding. The 10,000 figure isn't a wild guess, I pull tested it in my shop ! I wonder if the softer silicone will get grit embedded in it. I'm sorry I gave bad advice, but it really has worked well for me. I must have a deeper hole in mine. That would allow the epoxy to stay in better and me more likely to trap ceramics. Really don’t think it was bad advice at all. I think it’s just a bit random based on what epoxy we all use and our barrels possibly being different. None the less, for me - all my cycles are very easy to clean out so I see no need to plug it now
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Jun 3, 2019 11:13:42 GMT -5
I agree, not bad advice, some epoxy won't work in certain shaped holes they are just hateful. The grit shouldn't stick after the RTV sets up. There is another product I suspect might work called LEXUS, it is a Vinyl product that is flexible when cured and lasts up to 50 years I believe. I have used that to seal loose rivets in an old flat bottom boat. It didn't come off at 45 MPH, I suspect it would hold onto a slow turning Barrel. It worked well patching Cat claw punctures in my old waterbed also !
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