tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Oct 27, 2023 8:46:14 GMT -5
I have done Rio's in the past and yes this happens with some. It is mostly unavoidable. IF the pits/flaws are from undercutting of softer material then finer grits, 80 as opposed to say 60/90, SOMETIMES will minimize but not cure.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Oct 21, 2023 7:42:54 GMT -5
Looks nice PM sent
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Oct 21, 2023 7:42:31 GMT -5
Looks good PM sent
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Oct 19, 2023 17:39:54 GMT -5
When I used to rotary tumble all stages I ditched plastic pellets in favor of ceramic media. As I recall it was due a similar problem.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Sept 14, 2023 9:08:58 GMT -5
I use psyllium powder... yeah the laxative.. insert joke here... I use it for polish and pre-polish, 1/2 tsp for my UV18. Creates a lubricating gel that holds water and really helps release polish during clean up. Looks really funky when started up but smoothes out fairly quickly.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Aug 19, 2023 11:28:11 GMT -5
Is there a tumbling FAQ here that I don't know about? If there is/were this would likely be one of the questions. Right along with "why can't I get these rocks to shine" question. I mean that in the best of humor as I vaguely remember asking the same myself...
Save the "stress" about weight and follow the 2/3 to 3/4 full barrel guideline. That volume allows for the best tumbling action in almost every instance. That volume also means that the tumbling barrel, regardless of manufacturer, will weigh more than the 3,6,12,17 whatever rated pounds. Mine have always run "heavy" and I notice no harm to the machines beyond what should be considered normal wear.
The debate about why that is true goes on but the facts remain the same... humor thing again ... hope this helps.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Aug 19, 2023 9:06:01 GMT -5
I agree with the advice given in this thread. I haven't tumbled this stone but have done different feldspars which present similar challenges.
If we are doing all stages rotary here are some things to try...
Stage one cushioning ... ceramics or additional smalls could work, I would make them about 40% of the total volume. I would also make sure my tumbler barrel was filled to about the 80 to 85 percent range. This will slow down the action and it may take additional time to use up all the grit. Another idea, mix my target stone 50/50 with something softer on the mohs scale. In this case Iolite with something like Dalmatian stone or any rock in the 6 to 6.5 mohs range. I think the softer stone helps get a slurry going faster, the slurry its self can be cushioning. The other rock can generally be passed along with the target rock all the way to polish.
I have only casual observation to prove this ... straight graded grits for all stages seem to help over come or at least reduce many tumbling problems. For example I keep some 80 sic on hand which I use for things I already know undercut like many moss agates or have cleavage issues like feldspars. I believe it may be that the larger grit particles are forced deeper into the weaker areas by the tumbling forces. From there on 220 over say 120/220 then 500 and so on. One less variable in case of a "fail".
I would also keep overall tumbler volume at 80 to 85 in the steps between coarse and polish. Plastic pellets could be a consideration as well. Many folks here have success with them.
My "kryptonite" has been Labradorite ... looks just like I want it to all along and then goes to "crap" in the polish. Next time I do it I'm going to try a dry polish. I haven't tried a dry polish yet but many here have luck with it and difficult rocks so the info is here.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Aug 12, 2023 8:17:11 GMT -5
copied from Stone Mania
Although iolite grades 7 to 7.5 on Mohs scale of mineral hardness which makes it quite hard, it's not particularly tough. Hardness and toughness in rocks and minerals is not the same.
Hardness refers to the ability of one mineral to scratch another whilst toughness also known as "tenacity" refers to its resistance to cracking, chipping, pressure or breaking.
Iolite has a perfect cleavage in one direction which means it can break easily as result of a knock, pressure or even an extreme change of temperature. This makes cutting and polishing quite difficult
You might be able to salvage these by starting over at stage one and using a lot of cushioning along the way. Rock on...
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Aug 6, 2023 7:25:44 GMT -5
I'm glad to have won this material and to help the benefit at the same time. Can't say much more than that now. Thanks to Tony, Dave, and the other Mods who made this possible. The RTH community Rocks!!!
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Aug 4, 2023 18:25:25 GMT -5
It's wonderful what's being done in Ed's memory. I will miss his presence here.
I'll bid $325
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 30, 2023 13:52:59 GMT -5
My two cents... Since bruising isn't an issue...
Ditch the ceramics and put in a mix of smaller rocks. Grit and tumbling space are valuable.
I'm currently rolling two fist sized pieces. In stage one I used a mix of rock from 1/2 to 2 inches along with the fists. No issues with bruising, breaking, etc. I added the ceramic at stage two for cushion as per my normal process and to make up volume after that. The batch is headed to polish and is heavy on smalls and ceramics. The "target rock" is some what irregular. 220, 500, 1000 grits all ran 14 days as too many too small slows everything down. I'll probably run the polish 21 days or more.
Good luck whatever you decide.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 29, 2023 6:13:00 GMT -5
scotydog826 your situation reminds me of when I was a new tumbler. I bought a QT66 to supplement my 33B's, had two. Did so on recommendations of folks here and did not regret doing so. The QT66 runs about 40 to 50 dollars more than the QT6. You get two 6 pound barrels and the Qt66 frame is the same as the QT12 frame. So down the line if you wish you can buy a 12# barrel and use it in your "tumbling arsenal". Something to consider...
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 8, 2023 12:54:58 GMT -5
Having a lot of fun with my new HP14 slab saw. I do however have some regret in buying it. Like now I want a trim saw... and eventually maybe a cabbing unit. LOL. Seriously though the couple things I didn't like have to do with the oil in one way or another. A quick google search told me these issues are normal and easy enough to deal with. The search directed to threads on this board. LOL. Ya'll answered my questions without me having to ask. I got the rough from catmandewe back in Aug. 2019. As I recall he had a trailer load from an estate sale and I got a couple boxes. This chunk was solid, fracture free, and too "nice" to bash up with a hammer and tumble so I saved it. I'm not overly knowledgeable with rock ID's but Stinking Water seems to be correct based on my internet searches. If you know different I'd be glad to change my ID. Took pics of both sides of each slab as they came off. Some of my favorite shots... 20230704_222040 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr 20230704_214650 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr 20230704_225942 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr 20230704_222040 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr An album link if you care to see all ... flic.kr/s/aHBqjALEKfThanks for looking and have a rockin' good day !
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 5, 2023 10:28:32 GMT -5
Welcome aboard from another Illinois rocker.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 5, 2023 10:13:24 GMT -5
Thanks all, I did not know what I thought I knew... LOL
Found HP's video about these blades while looking for the one mentioned here. Says the break in is 60 hours.
Lets cut some more and get this thing broken in. Yeah!!!
Thanks again.
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 4, 2023 18:40:27 GMT -5
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 4, 2023 14:00:58 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Yes that machine is worth repairing without a doubt. It is almost certainly the motor as there is really no other "moving parts". It's a motor mounted to a shaft with a counter weight attached.
Consider this...vibe tumblers are for steps 2 through polish. Rotary tumbler still needed for step 1. I have a UV-18 which holds roughly 12 to 15 pounds of rock . I run two or three twelve pound barrels at a time for stage one. That gets me about 8 to 10 batches a year in the UV-18. That 45 will take a while to fill so bear that in mind. Good luck, happy tumbling...
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 4, 2023 13:49:10 GMT -5
Need a little help to confirm/deny what I think I already know...which is my new blade is bad. Got a new HP14 and got set up leveled out etc. Before I ever put oil in I started it up to be sure every thing worked. All good except the vibration was more than expected. I have run many other saws and was pretty sure the blade was the source. Not wobble but hop, so I took the blade off checking/confirming bushing installed correctly, with proper fit to the arbor, nothing damaged or ill fitting there. Paint job on the green line blade pretty uneven so I thought perhaps it might be the source and maybe the hop goes away with the paint. Put oil in and made about 12 cuts. Each start you can hear a tick tick tick, one part of the blade contacting first then when fully engaged some what of a hammer sound. Each cut hammering sound less and vibration less. Then it got louder again, stopped checked, all ok, restart the cut and sound mellowed back out before cut finished. In retrospect I believe a new sintered tooth (?) was exposed/engaged. That's when I took a good look at the blade. Looking at the edge... one 7 inch area the "teeth" are worn and even with the body of the blade. run a finger along there and it is smooth. It transitions rather abruptly to where the rest of the blade still has "teeth" raised above the blade body. Some of these "teeth" still have square edges, some even have paint on the surface. In that long run there are two shorter 1.5 inch or so spots that resemble the smooth section. That was Sunday. Call HP on Monday and try to describe the situation. They want to send me their "how to" videos and for me to send them videos of my blade. OK I tell her but I already know how to install a blade bushing and check blade run out. She mentions a break in period for the green line blade but cannot describe for me what that break in period typically involves. Today I took the blade back off and verified installation and lack of damage to blade, bushing, arbor. No evidence of the blade slipping in the flanges. Put back together per their video. I checked blade run out and it was .003 which includes a tiny bit of movement in the vice. I even put a micrometer to the slabs I cut and they are even with no dishing or cupping. What do we think? Bad blade? Break in? I will follow through with HP but would like input from here, always a trusted source. the smooth area 20230704_152829 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr some "teeth" with little wear 20230704_152735 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr shorter low spot 20230704_152746 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr after @ 1/4 turn 20230704_152800 by Ken Vancil, on Flickr a few more in this album ... flic.kr/s/aHBqjALfuD
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jul 2, 2023 16:16:47 GMT -5
ltphala My HT-14 arrived on Thursday and after building a stand I made my first cuts today . Out of the box, one bolt on the motor mount misaligned, a quick easy fix. Also a couple loose fasteners, no big deal as well. My vise had too much play on the rails, I would not have known that except for the fact I had watched HP's videos. Pretty easy to adjust as well. Watching the videos before hand was a huge help for me getting it going. I cut a small piece of Morrocan seam agate first. About 3" x 4" and around 1 inch thick. I chose it to be sure the first piece clamped well. Plan on upgrading the vise some day but this one seems to be serviceable and surprisingly strong. Got a much larger piece of Ohio flint in now. My ear is telling me I still don't have the shut off chain figured out but I'll get it. LOL. I really like this thing, I think you will be happy with yours....
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tkvancil
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2011
Posts: 1,546
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Post by tkvancil on Jun 25, 2023 10:38:54 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum... basically without more info it goes like this .... load the barrel 2/3 to 3/4 full and the load is correct.
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