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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Apr 9, 2020 21:57:41 GMT -5
checking my e-10 1955 highland park 8'' trim saw. No hole for that part.
And i see that your saw has cross feed adjustment / in 1955 they're dark green. gravity feed only.
Jack
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Jan 20, 2020 12:29:50 GMT -5
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Jan 3, 2020 18:50:12 GMT -5
Tripoli polishing compoud. I use it in my vibra tumblers. Cheap and it carrys the grit.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 29, 2019 12:34:41 GMT -5
West coast report. Cold Blue out on the green side of Oregon. highs in the 40s today through next Wednesday. The pacific lake effect is bomb cyclone down south. Warm water close to shore for the tuna.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 26, 2019 21:15:32 GMT -5
the face of cut at kurf on sides of blade get very hot. contact point of diamonds an the metal matrix holding diamond in place. can't remember the book i think it was 1964 "Lapidary Shop Help. That the cutting face is close 270 degree F. when tank oil is over 100 degree F.
Though Carbon boiling point is 3004 degree F.
the metal holding diamond in place needs much more fluid on blades radius to wash cut, an cool coolant.
Trim saw 1/4 1/2 An apron.
coolant i use has a flash point of 351 degree F.
Jack Cole
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 24, 2019 18:46:55 GMT -5
1 inch on 14'' on up. more spray flying in tank helps to cool tanks supply.
Lapping just a 1/4 -1/2 inch well start to heat up tanks supply. Not good to let tanks coolant get above 100 degree F.
Jack
Mike in Dallas you should Know better.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 24, 2019 18:37:00 GMT -5
re-think the OHM - scale, When using a ( 1 ) amp. motor on hard load. Cont. duty will fail!
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 18, 2019 21:58:05 GMT -5
Or a stack of diamond blades. 10'' is what i use.
Jack
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 18, 2019 21:56:50 GMT -5
Rough grinding stone. try the not so old way. Silica carbide wheels . 80 grit is what i use on fire agate rough before the diamond grinding or tumbler runs.
Jack
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 14, 2019 16:54:52 GMT -5
clear lacquer mix with thinner. for bone use 1:1 ratio. allow to soak in. several coats first off to saturate the material then let dry for a day. need to stand it up? off the base use 3 tooth picks. for run off.
Woodburn Oregon mammoth park, Peat bog fossils are soak in Floor wax, Then air dried, NO HEAT. same for the wood material. the Bogs last wash out was 12,500 BP.
Though their were two others 30,000 & 20,000 yrs. Bp. for the last ice age. I fell were still in the middle of the fourth quarter.
Jack
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 10, 2019 13:08:22 GMT -5
The vise is best used with large stone. no more then 1/3 the diameter of the blade. trimming slabs should be done on deck of slab saw.
The vise is to save on fingers ware / and bent blades! School of HARD KNOCKS. First rock breaking, rolling on finger tip, Or just cut it up.
Vise is to hold rock SQ. to the blades line of cut.
Jack Cole
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 10, 2019 2:03:53 GMT -5
Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole Wow, the brass rod to raise the free end of the vice is a new one for me. I do see the small hole at the rear of the saw table which you say one end is inserted into, but bending it up behind the vice's rear edge doesn't seem to insure that it will stay straight. I presume the purpose is to reduce friction between the vice bottom and the saw table. Can you elaborate a bit more? The rod is Brazing rod. Needs to have a sharp 90 degree bend with a tail piece (about 2'' is fine. ) into the coolant tank. About a 1/8 inch well be in small hole next to the splash shield. Fit the end with the bend first then trim the other end. this should lay flat too the bed of the trim saw. Some of the photo i see the grove of the old rod that was in place. All Highland-Park cab units of this model with E-10 type trim saw had the BRASS ROD. This keeps the vise & the blade cut SQ. to plane of cut. Jack Cole
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 7, 2019 21:53:17 GMT -5
well that was wasted type. must have brass rod under vise. holds plane of stone sq. to blade. they used a welding brass rod. front of vise their is a small hole. back of vise break sharp corner in rod. about a 1/2 in. put in back first. then the front next too the splash pan edge. small hole.
I have the save unit in ( 1955 E-10 bench unit. )
Jack Cole Rough Lapidary
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 7, 2019 21:40:25 GMT -5
Hi folks, I recently bought used Highland Park 10TSB 10" trim/slab saw and have some questions I was hoping somebody here could have answers for This is the saw (I am sorry i don't know how to make the pictures smaller here): It has a thin diamond blade installed and I got another - a "pro slicer" with it. They used to use the saw to trim glass for jewelry and used water + sawzit to cool it. Originally this type of saw came with gravity feed and vise like so: But those parts are missing on my saw. I am trying to figure out if I should make any modifications to use it for trimming of slabs of agates, jaspers and obsidians and potentially slabbing some smaller rocks like the one in the picture. Specifically I have these questions: - can I keep using water + Sawzit for cooling or do I need to switch to oil (which and why - I am noob in saws so trying to learn)?
- the blade seems ok for trimming (and it creates a very smooth surface) but I am not sure if maybe I should get a coarser wider blade for slabbing? I tried to free hand slab the piece of rock you see it the picture and I stopped as it felt like it's super easy to bend the blade and I was worried I might break it.. What would potentially be a good blade for slabbing?
- any ideas on if and where I might be able to get the gravity feed system for it or how to make one myself? I tried calling Highland Park and they don't have the old parts but they are actually working on making them! Should become available at some point next year (in case anybody else is interested) ..so worst case scenario I just wait.
- the "guide on stick" part (I have no idea how that's called properly) that you can see in the picture of my saw has a lot of rust on it and I am wondering if there is something I can do to prevent it from rusting further... should I sand down the rust and paint it with something ?
Any tips are welcome. I cannot wait to start working through all the slabs and rocks I have
Tereza.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Oct 26, 2019 11:26:28 GMT -5
Deer Cr . fire agate rough.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Oct 26, 2019 11:22:30 GMT -5
Still having trouble with this I'll check
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Oct 22, 2019 20:49:52 GMT -5
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Oct 19, 2019 22:40:48 GMT -5
issue was signing up to sites, upload service. link to pre-set was ( signed ) Though it should be ( Unsigned ). to work Tommy the Lady in their Community help. less than 12 hours of Emails later.
Back to loading MBs.
Jack In Oregon
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Oct 19, 2019 22:08:38 GMT -5
Cloudinary signing on to photo linking uploads.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Oct 18, 2019 15:44:43 GMT -5
Old Highland-Park, Motor 4'' saw blade arbor 10'' for the blade, and 2'' on the screw feed belt to worm gear three speed reduction 6'' x 5'' x 4'' for bull gear.
rockpickerforever nice to see the link on post. Jack. old blade slower rpm. the new mk blade rpm speed change. i run natch blade 3800 SFM - 4200 SFM. which is 600 rpm with 4'' - 10'' motor 1750 rpm.
I use over kill on motors. old fran & tom saws, 1956 24'' baldor motor.3/4 hp. i changed it to farm duty sealed. 1 hp.
!982 24 highland-park same 3/4 hp, changed to 1hp.
New motor / not the same \on continuous duty.
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