zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Oct 7, 2018 23:52:10 GMT -5
She's about 15. I don't think the walls are thin enough to bend. They are 1-2 mm thick. It would be very hard to bend all the walls to pinch it in. I'll give it a go with the epoxy and see how it goes, I can probably add the undercut to give the glue more purchase.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Oct 7, 2018 17:10:55 GMT -5
An undercut in the walls of the setting for the E6000 to bind to?
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Oct 7, 2018 9:47:26 GMT -5
Yes but it wouldn't be as nice as one solid piece.
I might just try the toothpick idea and doping wax.
Is there a difference between the different colors of doping wax? I have black colored wax.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Oct 6, 2018 20:50:11 GMT -5
I want to inlay these little cut outs with lapis and malachite. I cast this ring for my little cousin. Then I'll polish it after inlaying. 2018-10-06_09-48-50 by Zapins, on Flickr
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Oct 4, 2018 18:06:29 GMT -5
Anyone got any especially effective ways of cutting tiny stones for inlaying? I want to cut a few 1-3 mm of unusual shape for a project I'm working on and am having a hell of a time holding onto the tiny stones! They keep slipping out of my fingers and getting lost as I grind them!
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Mar 6, 2018 20:09:33 GMT -5
I finished this up last week or so. The blue wax is the original carving wax, and the brown is casting wax. I made a mold and copied the original blue wax and popped out the brown wax copy. Then cast it in sterling silver with a safety pin in the back with my centrifugal caster machine. Then I ground down the sprues and polished it up with a flap wheel and my magnetic polisher for the final shine. Then I patina'd the eyes and leaves with liver of sulfur. I used a 2 part water clear epoxy to fix the stone in place. Figured someone might find it interesting. Unfortunately I didn't grind the cabochon. Next time Wax Owl Brooch Compilation by Zapins, on Flickr Compilation Owl Brooch by Zapins, on Flickr
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Dec 19, 2017 0:19:26 GMT -5
Perfect. Thanks for the help. I think I know what I've got to do. I'll cut the top off my saw leaving just a 0.5 inch rectangular box for the base of the lid and then get some 22g bent up and over just like your hood. The base is the only part that needs to be solid and thick. The canopy part doesn't need to have a lot of strength to it.
That will lighten the load and get me into the 20 lb lift range just like your lid.
I'll have to do a bit more playing with the numbers so I can get the exact curvature for the corners so it doesn't bump my vice or blade inside. Then with any luck I'll have it welded up and installed by the end of next week.
I'll also jave the vice welded by then too if all goes well. Getting close to finishing this project. Then I'll throw together updated blueprints and make a proper DIY how to instructable page for any one foolish enough to follow in my foot steps.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Dec 18, 2017 23:20:27 GMT -5
Thanks rock.
So you think the secret is in the curved roof along with rolled edges. Hmm.
How heavy does the lid feel to open? Can you open it with 1 hand? 1 finger?
It's possible I can get my sheet steel made and curved like that at the local shop. You have given me something to think about.
I can probably lighten the lid by another 10 lbs or so if I went with 22g and a curved lid like that. I could eliminate the top part of the rectangular inner frame. That would bring the lid to roughly 48 lbs and 24 lbs of force to open it.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Dec 18, 2017 21:26:16 GMT -5
Quick question for you folks. I'll be fixing the hood next week to lighten it up so it isn't a death trap.
Rockoonz, you say you think your lid is 24-26 gauge steel except the edges? I went to a sheet metal place today and felt some 22 gauge metal and it seems extremely flimsy, almost like I could bend it with just my fingers on one hand. Does your hood feel very flimsy and warp when you push on it or does it have a firm feeling when pushed on?
16 gauge metal felt like the right firmness for the lid (1/16" thick), but the final weight using the 16 gauge some structural supports along the edges comes out to about 90 pounds, which means I will have to push up with 45 pounds to lift the lid unaided.
If I use 22 gauge steel I can get the weight down to 56 lbs total and 28 pounds of force needed to open it.
If I use 26 gauge steel the lid will be 45 lbs and I will need to push with 22.5 lbs of force to open it.
Of course the thinner the gauge the more flimsy and more easily it will get dinged and damaged.
What are your thoughts?
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Nov 3, 2017 23:34:33 GMT -5
So re-coating will last... years???
Hmm... I think I'll be machining myself some wheels and building myself a cabber over Christmas time then. I won't need to buy a pre-made diamond wheel if coating does the job just as well.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Sept 21, 2017 17:38:29 GMT -5
Fantastic5 - the stone is a lot larger than 8-9 mm in the rough, it is probably about 20-25 mm across (2/3 to 3/4") the usable part that looks flawless to me is about 1 cm across, with some losses I think the finished stone would be 8 to 9mm.
Also, scott & fish, I just want to clarify that what I am offering is the expertise and skill needed to make a custom made part of silver. This is not something easy to do, if you went to a jeweler and asked for a custom cast piece of jewelry you'd easily be asked to shell out $125-150. So the trade isn't really about the material cost of half an ounce of silver ($8-10 material costs), but rather the time and skill it takes to carve out a wax in the required shape, cast it perfectly, clean up and chase, then bring to a high shine polish or patina as needed. The cost comes from the skill involved not the material costs.
I have never cut a stone before, but I do know that the amount of time involved in custom casting things out of silver is many more hours than you'd think. In fact, I'd go as far as to say carving a wax, casting, and polishing probably takes twice as long as a stone takes to cut (3-8 hours for a stone from what I understand, and 8-16 hours to cast and finish a piece of silver or more depending on how intricate the object is). The person cutting the stone in this trade would be coming out way ahead here in spending less or equal time to cut and in material costs (silver, wax, investment, multiple polishes/grits/consumables).
If anyone cuts gemstones, and needs something cast, message me if you are interested in trading skills.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Aug 27, 2017 11:56:24 GMT -5
Looks really nice. How long did it take to cut the stone and polish it from start to finish?
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 22, 2017 0:41:19 GMT -5
Ah I see.
Thanks for the info.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 21, 2017 15:44:26 GMT -5
I don't know much about stone faceting, perhaps you or others can let me know how long & what is involved in faceting a round shaped gem?
I'm more than happy to put in equal amounts of time or materials so the trade is good. Castings for faceting.
From what I understand I can get a stone faceted for $50-80 from a store, which is why I figured about 20 bucks of silver + the investment material that is needed to coat the item, the wax it takes me to carve whatever someone wants cast should be roughly equal?
1 oz is fine too.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 21, 2017 14:54:03 GMT -5
I know some people have faceter machines here on the forum. I looked into buying one but the price is a bit nuts to get all the stuff needed to cut even a simple gem. I found this while collecting in georgia, it is an amethyst, I don't think it is worth too much but it has sentimental value because I found it with my girlfriend. I want to have it cut into a stone so I can put it in some jewelry. I was wondering if anyone would like to trade services? I do a decent bit of metal casting in silver and also larger castings in silicon bronze, though I can cast in tin, copper, zinc etc if you want. I would be happy to cast something out of silver up to about half an ounce (sterling or fine silver, your choice) in exchange for a "round" cut stone with the facets like the one in the top left of this picture: If you have something made out of wax or really anything that will burn (flowers, leaves, cloth, etc) I can direct cast it for you, or if you want me to carve you something I can do that as well, just message me and we can figure out the details. The rough I'd like cut is bottom right I think there is a small section of the gem that doesn't have flaws in it, maybe 8-9 mm size. 2017-07-21_02-50-45 by Zapins, on Flickr
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 1, 2017 21:56:59 GMT -5
Hmm I like that idea.
I wouldn't mind watching the cutting but I figured the oil and rock sludge would be flying around inside the cabinet in a fine mist and would cover up the window ports.
Any pics of your cabinet when closed and open so I can see the placement of the flap?
I could cut out the panels, leave the edges and corners in tact and then add in large sheets of plexiglass on all sides. Have an entirely glass lid so I can watch from all angles. Though I have a feeling it will just get dirty and scratched up over time.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 1, 2017 16:48:05 GMT -5
Wouldn't that leak oil out the center joint?
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 1, 2017 15:55:17 GMT -5
Might be worth making a new lid. There's a place down the road from me that deals in thinner gauge sheet steel and can bend a piece for me so it doesn't smack the ceiling.
Would I be able to open it with 1 hand or would it need shocks to help if it was 12 gauage? I'd prbably still need to put an inner frame inside the lid to make it more rigid.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jul 1, 2017 13:31:25 GMT -5
I was thinking on the opposite side to the blade. That way if it warped the attachment wall it wouldn't move the blade at all. I think it will still clear the blade being attached on that side and still allow me to load it and unload it I think.
I just feel that the hood is dangerous handing overhead. So either I make a whole new hood, cut out large panels and replace with plexiglass (which I don't relish the idea of) or I move the hinges so it isn't as terrifying.
A rough choice. I will weld up the vice next week sometime and post photos. The hood opening issue is a real concern for me. Not sure how to fix that easily.
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zapins
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2016
Posts: 116
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Post by zapins on Jun 28, 2017 17:09:54 GMT -5
Are there any issues you all can think of if the hood opens with the hinge on the long side of the saw box rather than the short side? I think the hood would clear the blade, and it wouldn't be hanging overhead or bumping into the ceiling in that orientation.
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