nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Feb 12, 2020 9:42:48 GMT -5
Well done with yours. Where is it from? I have not had much luck with the Northern AZ pet wood, as most of it tends to fracture. Sure, I get lucky with some pieces, but it's been more of an uphill battle for me. I'm curious as to it's origin, as well. (Great job on it, BTW lancemountain). It looks like AZ wood, much like what I have, which was self collected at Noah Dobell's place, although a few of your pieces are atypical to what I collected. My experience with it has been like Dave's. Most of it is riddled with cracks. I don't think mine is cracking during tumbling; I believe the fractures were present when I picked them up off the ground in AZ. And I too have a few that come out flawless (maybe 1 in 10-15), but that is after many, many episodes in the coarse grind. Most of it I've moved on to the next stages, just accepting the flaws, as after a while you can tell that they will never grind out. Some of my favorite pieces are actually the ones that show some bark. But, yeah, the colors are amazing. And, where it is smooth, it takes a shine as well as anything I've ever polished.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Nov 24, 2019 10:55:35 GMT -5
I want one. (Or more!) Probably cost an arm and a leg. Wonder what they do cost? Just the methods of packing for shipping, and the shipping itself, are expensive, I’m sure. Also curious as to their weight.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Sept 17, 2018 19:45:36 GMT -5
If the suggested solvents don't work, you might consider either sawing through the epoxy or breaking apart with hammer & chisel to create tumbler size pieces. I would think the epoxy is much softer than the rock, and would grind off fairly quickly in coarse grind in the tumbler.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 27, 2018 12:05:40 GMT -5
Jugglerguy is on the nose. The only way to get extremely well rounded stones is to either collect them that way, ie: beaches and river beds, or to pre-cut and/or grind before starting
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 1, 2018 21:48:08 GMT -5
Thanks for the quick replies. I’ll get some of one of those.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 1, 2018 13:57:01 GMT -5
I was passing through Arizona on I-40, and took a slight detour to collect at Dobell ranch. Does anyone know of a way or have suggestions to clean the whitish crud off of the specimens? At first glance, it just looks like dirt that would rise off, but doesn't. It's somewhat consolidated, but still pretty soft and grainy. Maybe limestone that has not completely set up yet?
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Mar 13, 2018 17:31:54 GMT -5
Payment remitted. Thank you
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Mar 13, 2018 13:49:30 GMT -5
I'll take one if any left. PM sent
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Feb 21, 2018 17:24:55 GMT -5
For an immediate, and non-rock sacrificing slurry, lots of people on here use clay, obtained from the ground or (more commonly) from basic cat litter. Other thickening agents mentioned: Metamucil, sugar, Borax, slurry from a previous tumble. Probably others I can't recall.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Jan 16, 2018 12:12:46 GMT -5
After some postings by jamesp a few weeks back, I ordered some AO 220 from eBay with a link he provided in the post. My results were as he had reported for himself, ie: 1) Extended time in the rotary with extra coarse (46/70 SiC, or whatever coarse SiC you like) 2) Rocks that are ready to move on go to a vibe with the AO 220. After about 48 hours, they begin to shine. 3) 24-48 hours in the vibe with whatever polish you have.
The AO 220 does seem to take care of the scratches, even from extra coarse SiC. Then it (the AO 220) apparently breaks down to finer and finer AO as time in the vibe goes on. According to jamesp, if left in longer, you may eventually get a finished shine. But I went ahead and moved them to an actual polish stage when they began to get shiny in the AO 220.
I think that your 220 SiC would also remove the scratches from the 46/70, without having to use the intermediate 60/90. And to even eliminate another step (500 SiC), consider using AO 220 instead of the SiC 120/220
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Nov 19, 2017 8:20:59 GMT -5
There's a post from a couple weeks ago from someone on here (tkvancil) from Illinois with pictures of the finished product of some material he collects there. Here is a link to it: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/80949/self-collected-illinois-arkansasSome nice looking stuff. Self collected material always means more to me. I'm thinking it would be the same with a kid. And the fossils contained within I think would be cool for a kid too. Getting outside, the hunt, the excitement of finding treasure, etc. A cool way for a father (and/or mother) and son (and/or daughter) to spend a day, especially one who is already interested in rocks. Maybe he would give you some pointers on where to hunt in your state, if you're interested.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Nov 1, 2017 17:09:53 GMT -5
@alicat218..: Not sure what you consider a day trip, but most any of the beaches on the central coast, from Monterey to Santa Barbara, have some really nice material. Closest to you, probably around SLO, about 2.5 hours. And any of the drainages out of the coastal range between Fresno and the beaches should have (and is definitely known to have) beautiful jaspers. In fact, that is where the rocks on the beaches come from, for the most part. As far as the gravel piles near Snelling on the Merced River: I know there are some good reports from there, and it is closer to you than the coast, but it was a bust for us. Maybe we were in the wrong part. There is a huge area of them, on both sides of the river. We were just downstream of the lake/falls, on the eastern end of them, north side of the river. Hornitos is near there, and some good jasper has come from that area, but I know nothing about it other than what I've read, no firsthand knowledge. There's a thread on here, a guy named Trumbull may still be taking trips there (Google "Hornitos jasper")
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Nov 1, 2017 14:58:34 GMT -5
I'm not doubting that rubbing against metallic things outside of the tumbler can cause those type of streaks. But I use a plastic strainer, and I still see those streaks. My experience leads me to believe that, at least in my case, it is happening inside the tumbler. But, I'm using Lortone 3A & 33B, so I don't think there is any metal contact from the equipment. As some have hypothesized, maybe some metal in some of the rocks? Also, the grayish color of the streaks made me think about the SiC. Who knows? I used to do all stages rotary, but I bought a vibe a while back, and my last two or three batches I have finished in the vibe after the initial coarse grind in the rotaries. I was seeing the streaks after each of the coarser runs, ie: coarse, fine, and pre-polish, whether all rotary or moving to the vibe after first step. I am using SiC for all of these first three stages. Anyway, I worried a little, but didn't know what else to do but just move the rocks along to the next stage. At the end of the final polish stage (I've used both AO and CeO), none of the rocks had those streaks anymore. So, it seems to be, at least for me, a non-issue. In looking at your photos, all your rocks seem to be in the stage or stages before final polish. My suggestion is "Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead", and see if those streaks are not gone at the end of the final, polish stage. It has worked for me. (Of course you'll also want to prevent any metal contact outside (or inside) the barrels that you can)
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on May 4, 2017 12:20:54 GMT -5
Have you figured a way to remove the polish nileriver ? Not really. That batch divided roughly into three categories. One third were flawless, with no pits/cracks. All done. Another third had the AO cemented in to pits/cracks. Not horribly fractured and pitted, but still a bit unsightly. These went back to the tumbler for a coarse grind. I'm hoping they will be redeemed. The last third are like the second, except that, for some reason, they are fractured to a much greater degree, in both number and depth of cracks. I guess they are a bit more fragile? Those also went back to coarse, but I'm afraid they are ruined for most purposes. Lesson learned. Going forward, I will be running the AO very wet in the vibe.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on May 3, 2017 14:53:59 GMT -5
I think that, if your rocks are good and clean after each stage, it is not a problem to store them dry. I make sure mine are really clean anyway, to avoid cross contamination (coarser grit from previous stage making it into the next stage). I use a toothbrush because I frequently allow less than perfect rocks to proceed. I'm all for perfection, but some rocks have such an awesome pattern or color or shape, and you can tell that continued grinding will grind away pits/creases/cracks to just reveal more underneath, that you either accept them with flaws or chuck them entirely. You just have to make really sure that these voids are cleaned really well. And as others have noted, if the slurry dries in there, especially the white AO, it highlights every pit and crack. Some of which you might not even notice without the white AO "cement" glaring out at you. A flawless rock is easy to clean. And it may be overkill to use the toothbrush, as it is quite tedious. I am just paranoid of cross contamination. I use 3 lb tumblers. Those with a much higher volume of rocks, brushing is probably not practical. Jugglerguy, how long do you tumble in soap or borax between stages? And do you find that it cleans out pits/cracks thoroughly? Someone else mentioned two cleaning tumbles between each stage? I really would like to retire the toothbrush if it isn't really necessary...
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 19, 2017 14:02:39 GMT -5
Got it! Thanks for all your help jamesp. Appreciate all the prompt replies. I don't have anything ready for polish at present, but I will update when I do. My prepolish & polish are both AO, but I don't know what size. Lortone doesn't state on container. I'm going to get some AO 80 & 14,000 and try your two-step recipe that I've read about on other threads, but for now I need to use up the stuff that I have. I've definitely learned a ton from you & others on here.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 19, 2017 9:40:40 GMT -5
I'm don't know what an ultrasonic cleaner is.... I tried to wash them several times as richardh suggested. Like jamesp said, the stuff is in there like cement. Alas, they are back to the tumbler in coarse grind, except for maybe 20% of them, which are flawless, thus no cracks or pits for the polish to set up in. Hardly any of those rocks looked like they had any flaws after prepolish in the vibe. It seems that letting them go dry during polish really caused a lot of trauma, opened up cracks and pits that were not there before, and fractured the s**t out of so many of them. Really sick because I'm afraid I ruined a batch that was really looking good until then. I will do like jamesp and rum my vibe really wet going forward. On several occasions aluminum oxide (or the Borax) cemented when I first started learning to use a vibe. I always polished in the rotary using aluminum oxide. The wet AO slurry never cemented in the wet rotary. At first I replaced Borax with sugar since it dissolves better than Borax. That solved the concretions. Then I started running the Borax much wetter in the vibe with AO and added 30%-40% smalls. Great shine and no need to add water for 2-3 day vibe runs. Borax seems to give a higher polish than sugar. The coral I tumble often has dozens of micro druzzy pockets throughout and not noticeable by the human eye till they are packed with bright white polish. Very frustrating to find a dried load in the vibe. I will definitely try this. I am already using that % of smalls, so I got that part right anyway. How much Borax in a 4 lb. load? And are you still adding sugar as well? If so, how much?
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 18, 2017 23:59:38 GMT -5
I'm don't know what an ultrasonic cleaner is....
I tried to wash them several times as richardh suggested. Like jamesp said, the stuff is in there like cement. Alas, they are back to the tumbler in coarse grind, except for maybe 20% of them, which are flawless, thus no cracks or pits for the polish to set up in. Hardly any of those rocks looked like they had any flaws after prepolish in the vibe. It seems that letting them go dry during polish really caused a lot of trauma, opened up cracks and pits that were not there before, and fractured the s**t out of so many of them. Really sick because I'm afraid I ruined a batch that was really looking good until then. I will do like jamesp and rum my vibe really wet going forward.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 17, 2017 22:41:55 GMT -5
Thanks for the input richardh. I did run them in a burnish cycle with dish soap for a couple of hours after the polish stage. Sounds like it wasn't enough. I will try your advice.
|
|
nileriver
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2016
Posts: 22
|
Post by nileriver on Apr 16, 2017 10:53:07 GMT -5
Is there a way to get polish out of pits/cracks? I'd never had a problem with this when polishing in a rotary, I think due to it being a very wet process compared to a vibe. First time to use a vibe. Went to bed, thought I had it wet enough to make it until I got up the next day, but found it way too dry when I checked upon awakening. The finish on the rocks is great overall, but there are a lot of rocks that didn't even look fractured or pitted to the naked eye before that now have white specks and lines with polish in them. I'm thinking due to letting it get too dry? I did a soap burnish of a couple of hours, to no effect. I'm also wondering if it caused rocks to chip, pits to enlarge, and new fractures, because that definitely happened to a lot of the batch. The rocks were really looking good after the prepolish step. Now so many of them look worse. I mean, the overall polish is great, and the rocks that are completely flawless look awesome. But so many that seemed flawless before, at least to the naked eye, are disappointing. This never happened to me with the rotary. Are the vibes harder on rocks in general, or is it because I let it get too dry?
|
|