rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on May 8, 2023 9:56:24 GMT -5
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller 
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,496
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Post by realrockhound on May 8, 2023 10:24:04 GMT -5
All you can do when it comes to getting that perfect polish is making sure you get all of the scratches out from the previous disc before moving to the next. A little trick I like to do, is get initial dome on my 80. Then on 220 in shape it further, taking off more material. Then 280 I take off more material getting that nice round dome with no flat spots. By taking a little off with each grinding wheel, I know for certain I’ve gotten scratches out. Once I hit 600, I spend a fair amount of time on it observing it, wiping it off dry, observing it more and continuing until I’m certain all scratches are done. Once I hit 1200 I spend a lot of time there, then to 3000. I could be wrong, but maybe you aren’t spending enough time between wheels? Once you go to polish, as you know those misses scratches stick out like a sore thumb. I think you’re doing everything right, sometimes you just have to go back a step or two. It happens to all of us.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on May 8, 2023 10:53:36 GMT -5
All you can do when it comes to getting that perfect polish is making sure you get all of the scratches out from the previous disc before moving to the next. A little trick I like to do, is get initial dome on my 80. Then on 220 in shape it further, taking off more material. Then 220 I take off more material getting that nice round dome with no flat spots. By taking a little off with each grinding wheel, I know for certain I’ve gotten scratches out. Once I hit 600, I sound a fair amount of time on it observing it, wiping it off dry, observing it more and continuing until I’m certain all scratches are done. Once I hit 1200 I spend a lot of time there, then to 3000. I could be wrong, but maybe you aren’t spending enough time between wheels? Once you go to polish, as you know those misses scratches stick out like a sore thumb. I think you’re doing everything right, sometimes you just have to go back a step or two. It happens to all of us. Thanks realrockhound - I was surprised at the amount of scratches that the 260 (electroplated) disc left - this is where I have the most difficulty - getting rid of prior scratches before moving on. I feel like I create more as I try to remove them - I use a soft touch, don't grind (at least I don't think I do) and try to go at an angle to the scratches, although they go in every which way, so not sure what this does... I do the drying, looking, etc on the 220 soft smoothing and 325 soft smoothing because there are always scratches when I'm done on the electroplated discs. I probably spent about 15-20 mins per disc at this stage. I can usually tell by the 1200 disc that there are still scratches - why I didn't go back then I don't know...someone told me once that once you hit the 600 disc no material is being removed so I likely don't spend enough time on these discs - I'll start. I really love this stone and the placement of the 'flower and leaves' so I'll go back and will try again. Thank you! |
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,496
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Post by realrockhound on May 8, 2023 10:58:53 GMT -5
All you can do when it comes to getting that perfect polish is making sure you get all of the scratches out from the previous disc before moving to the next. A little trick I like to do, is get initial dome on my 80. Then on 220 in shape it further, taking off more material. Then 220 I take off more material getting that nice round dome with no flat spots. By taking a little off with each grinding wheel, I know for certain I’ve gotten scratches out. Once I hit 600, I sound a fair amount of time on it observing it, wiping it off dry, observing it more and continuing until I’m certain all scratches are done. Once I hit 1200 I spend a lot of time there, then to 3000. I could be wrong, but maybe you aren’t spending enough time between wheels? Once you go to polish, as you know those misses scratches stick out like a sore thumb. I think you’re doing everything right, sometimes you just have to go back a step or two. It happens to all of us. Thanks realrockhound - I was surprised at the amount of scratches that the 260 (electroplated) disc left - this is where I have the most difficulty - getting rid of prior scratches before moving on. I feel like I create more as I try to remove them - I use a soft touch, don't grind (at least I don't think I do) and try to go at an angle to the scratches, although they go in every which way, so not sure what this does... I do the drying, looking, etc on the 220 soft smoothing and 325 soft smoothing because there are always scratches when I'm done on the electroplated discs. I probably spent about 15-20 mins per disc at this stage. I can usually tell by the 1200 disc that there are still scratches - why I didn't go back then I don't know...someone told me once that once you hit the 600 disc no material is being removed so I likely don't spend enough time on these discs - I'll start. I really love this stone and the placement of the 'flower and leaves' so I'll go back and will try again. Thank you! when I get some time, I’ll try to record a video of what I like to do and text it to you or something. Might be easier to show you visually. I really do think you’re doing everything right, it’s just a matter of figuring out what works and what doesn’t ya know. |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on May 8, 2023 11:12:07 GMT -5
Thanks realrockhound - I was surprised at the amount of scratches that the 260 (electroplated) disc left - this is where I have the most difficulty - getting rid of prior scratches before moving on. I feel like I create more as I try to remove them - I use a soft touch, don't grind (at least I don't think I do) and try to go at an angle to the scratches, although they go in every which way, so not sure what this does... I do the drying, looking, etc on the 220 soft smoothing and 325 soft smoothing because there are always scratches when I'm done on the electroplated discs. I probably spent about 15-20 mins per disc at this stage. I can usually tell by the 1200 disc that there are still scratches - why I didn't go back then I don't know...someone told me once that once you hit the 600 disc no material is being removed so I likely don't spend enough time on these discs - I'll start. I really love this stone and the placement of the 'flower and leaves' so I'll go back and will try again. Thank you! when I get some time, I’ll try to record a video of what I like to do and text it to you or something. Might be easier to show you visually. I really do think you’re doing everything right, it’s just a matter of figuring out what works and what doesn’t ya know. Thank you! I often wonder if and how the slant cab differs from a cab king. Are the techniques the same? I see plenty of videos with the cab king - but none for the slant cabber - at least none that really shows how they work the stone.. I'll keep on keepin' on - even through my frustration. I appreciate the insight! |
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Post by liveoak on May 8, 2023 13:17:33 GMT -5
That's a cool stone Peta rocknewb101 , In between grits when you dry off the stone, make sure you're looking at it with magnification. I found that made a huge difference in being able to spot the scratches. Oh and patience.  ( and that can be the hardest part).
Patty
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on May 8, 2023 13:27:20 GMT -5
That's a cool stone Peta rocknewb101 , In between grits when you dry off the stone, make sure you're looking at it with magnification. I found that made a huge difference in being able to spot the scratches. Oh and patience. ( and that can be the hardest part).
Patty
Thanks, Patty! liveoak - I really like it too. I'm drying between each, and multiple times before moving along - and have a magnifying glass and my optivisor. My eyes aren't the best so maybe that contributes. Patience is by far my hardest challenge lol...but I'm learning. This one is tricky because there are areas that are metallic looking and those seem to maybe undercut? and not shine up..I'll send her back through - just not sure if I should go all the way back to the 260 and risk wearing more down, or try again on the 220 soft... |
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Post by liveoak on May 8, 2023 13:34:25 GMT -5
Well if you go to the 220 soft and you don't loose the scratches then you know to go further. One thing that I used to do all the time,and still do for some stones, is to coat the stone with magic marker. NOTE- I've learned that some stones can absorb it, so try it on a scrap or the back first.
But the magic marker actually let me see some of the scratches better, and if the shape was weirded out (for some unknown reason). BUT it also made me see that I was getting everywhere on the stone.
Keep at it you're getting better all the time 
Patty
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gunsil
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2023
Posts: 345
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Post by gunsil on May 8, 2023 13:35:34 GMT -5
Yah, doesn't make any difference whether one uses a flat lap, a Genie type machine, or does it by hand with sandpaper (yes it is done), The whole simple trick is to make sure there are no scratches from the previous grit before one moves to the next finer grit. Same as finishing wood, rock, or metal.
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Post by Starguy on May 8, 2023 13:47:50 GMT -5
I like it Peta rocknewb101. The pattern really pulls me in. Some rocks will not take a glass like polish but they can have so many different attractive properties. I’ve never used a slant/flat lap, (except when faceting). I suspect a lot of the same procedures apply as with wheels. When I’m working on a stubborn rock, I try varying the pressure against the wheel. Use your magnification and check if different pressures make a difference in the cab’s surface. On flat/slant wheels, the abrasive at the outside of the wheel is moving faster than near the center of the wheel. You can play around with that too. With soft wheels, try using just enough pressure to slightly deform the wheel. It’s a neat rock. Thanks for showing. |
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,496
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Post by realrockhound on May 8, 2023 14:08:48 GMT -5
Well if you go to the 220 soft and you don't loose the scratches then you know to go further. One thing that I used to do all the time,and still do for some stones, is to coat the stone with magic marker. NOTE- I've learned that some stones can absorb it, so try it on a scrap or the back first.
But the magic marker actually let me see some of the scratches better, and if the shape was weirded out (for some unknown reason). BUT it also made me see that I was getting everywhere on the stone.
Keep at it you're getting better all the time
Patty
Funny, I do that too with the marker. Works really well for showing low spots |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on May 8, 2023 14:26:24 GMT -5
Well if you go to the 220 soft and you don't loose the scratches then you know to go further. One thing that I used to do all the time,and still do for some stones, is to coat the stone with magic marker. NOTE- I've learned that some stones can absorb it, so try it on a scrap or the back first.
But the magic marker actually let me see some of the scratches better, and if the shape was weirded out (for some unknown reason). BUT it also made me see that I was getting everywhere on the stone.
Keep at it you're getting better all the time
Patty
That makes sense, of course I did try the magic marker trick in the past, but it didn't seem to work for me - I'll try again and see if it makes a difference on a different disk and rock (I'll def. test first since this is a softer rock). Thank you!! Yah, doesn't make any difference whether one uses a flat lap, a Genie type machine, or does it by hand with sandpaper (yes it is done), The whole simple trick is to make sure there are no scratches from the previous grit before one moves to the next finer grit. Same as finishing wood, rock, or metal. I wondered - thanks for confirming. I like it Peta rocknewb101 . The pattern really pulls me in. Some rocks will not take a glass like polish but they can have so many different attractive properties. I’ve never used a slant/flat lap, (except when faceting). I suspect a lot of the same procedures apply as with wheels. When I’m working on a stubborn rock, I try varying the pressure against the wheel. Use your magnification and check if different pressures make a difference in the cab’s surface. On flat/slant wheels, the abrasive at the outside of the wheel is moving faster than near the center of the wheel. You can play around with that too. With soft wheels, try using just enough pressure to slightly deform the wheel. It’s a neat rock. Thanks for showing. I love this rock too - even if I can't make it competition ready, i think it's pretty . I did not realize that the outer part of the wheel is moving faster - that's helpful to realize - thank you! I did get foam backers for my smoothing disks, but honestly, unless I press really hard, I can't tell that they are indenting-I'm sure they are, but it's not super evident. Thanks for the tips! |
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( and that can be the hardest part).
