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Post by Cher on Dec 30, 2004 12:23:10 GMT -5
Ok, no one had any suggestions on the diamond wheel so I'll ask this ... Do I really need one just for shaping stones? I was looking at Kingsley North and found this info on Silicon Carbide wheels. Would this work for what I want? Have any of you used them and is green better than the black? I don't know what they mean by medium or soft bond so am not sure which would be best.
Any suggestions as to the ... best brand (if there is such a thing) best grit (for shaping rough) best source (who's got the best prices)
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I had no idea how expensive these thing were so want to make sure I do this right.
Thanks!!
Cher
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Post by BearCreekLapidary on Dec 30, 2004 20:55:01 GMT -5
Hello Cher,
I am partial to Diamond Pacific brand wheels. They are the leader in my eyes. I have tried other diamond wheels and I ALWAYS come back to Diamond Pacific "Galaxy" wheels.
Best grit - Well that depends ... are you wanting to grind out coarse gringing marks or make coarse grinding marks. An 80 grit diamond wheel make short work of a lot of grinding tasks ... where as a 220 grit diamond wheel removes the gouges left behind from the 80 grit.
I have found that Kingsley North is generally right at the cheapest source for the Diamond Pacific products.
Diamond Pacific makes two different kinds of diamond wheels:
Galaxy wheels are nickle alloy "steel" wheels
Nova wheels are rubber backed wheels that help conform to your stone and alleviate flat spots.
Galaxy wheels - 4" - 80, 100 and 220 are available. 6" - 80, 100 and 220 are available. 7 5/8" - 80, 100, 180, 220 and 360 are available.
Nova wheels - 280, 600, 1200, 3000, 8000, 14000 and 50000 are available. There are "standard" and "hard" Nova wheels ... the hard wheels have a stiffer rubber backing and they do not conform near as well as the "standard" Nova wheels do.
I hope this helps,
Again, I have tried many different kinds of "cheaper wheels" and I always find myself coming back to the Diamond Pacific wheels. You do pay a little more for them ... but, they will last longer than most other brands.
John
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Post by Cher on Dec 30, 2004 21:00:40 GMT -5
Thanks for your answer John. For the most part I want to be able to shape stones that I've whacked into tumbling size. Flatten them out some and get them ready for the tumbler. I'm not so worried about if there's marks in them as I figure a couple of weeks in 60/90 will take care of them. I have the dremel for the finer detail but figured the grinder would be much better for taking down like 1/2 inch of the stone. Since it will be awhile before I have a saw, I'm not too worried right now about being able to produce any cabs like KD and Sands are making.
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Post by BearCreekLapidary on Dec 30, 2004 21:34:14 GMT -5
Hello Cher,
The advantage with diamond blades over silicon carbide wheels ... is that the silicon carbide wheels need to be straightened out from time to time ... we call this "dressing the wheel" ... if you put Barbie clothes on the wheel ... well, you have just flat lost it.
After time the silicon carbide wheels develope a cupper face on the wheel. Generally from grinding in one spot and no utilizing the full face of the wheel. Regardless of how you use the silicon carbide wheels ... they will eventually need to be dressed so that the face of the wheel is smooth and square again.
To dress a wheel ... you will need a dresser bar or dresser stick. These will cut away at the face of the silicon carbide wheels to get them back to running smooth and square.
Diamond wheels never need to be dressed and they always offer you a square face.
Each time you dress a wheel it becomes smaller.
The difference with the black and the green wheels is:
Black: is a medium bond wheel that is designed for general lapidary use.
Green: is a softer bond that offers faster cutting for lapidary use.
Hope this helps,
John
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Post by Cher on Dec 30, 2004 22:07:34 GMT -5
Hahaha Barbie clothes on the wheel ... now that would be a feat wouldn't it. Thanks John, you have definitely helped me immensely!!
Cher
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deepsouth
fully equipped rock polisher
He who rocks last rocks best
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,256
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Post by deepsouth on Dec 30, 2004 22:54:53 GMT -5
Hi Cher ,
I too am hoping to buy a grinding wheel one of these days. I already have made up my mind that it will have to be a diamond wheel, after several articles written on this subject in the past on this forum, and also after listening to good advice from some locals.
Jack
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Post by docone31 on Dec 30, 2004 23:09:38 GMT -5
Go diamond, go as wide as you can in the diameter you use. I use a 100grt diamond on one side, and a rubber drum on the other. The rubber drum I put sanding belts. There I go from 220-3200. THat is what works for me. The 80 is too agressive, I haven't tried the 180, or 320 in diamond. I started with the rubber drum and a corundum wheel, and I had one explode from sitting in water. All the water had collected in the bottom of the wheel and it vibrated right off the arbor. It was spectacular. I had also gotten into the habit of side grinding on the wheel. THat might have contributed to the fracture. Get a diamond. They last forever. Mine hasn't even shown signs of breaking in yet.
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Banjocreek
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2003
Posts: 1,115
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Post by Banjocreek on Dec 30, 2004 23:19:50 GMT -5
For what it is worth, I have to agree with the above suggestions to go with a diamond wheel. I run my Silicon Carbide wheel wet and get as much silicon carbide on me as I do rock dust. I really wears down quickly when you use it a lot. And you'll wear it down even more when you have to keep dressing it.
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Post by Cher on Dec 31, 2004 0:28:48 GMT -5
Thanks everyone, guess I know where my Christmas $$ is going. Thanks everyone, I appreciate the input.
Cher
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