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Post by krazydiamond on Jan 2, 2005 14:13:35 GMT -5
finally got the 10 inch tile saw set up (Chicago Electric with stand) and with much tweaking and messing about got it running. the water delivery system needed extra attention because at first it didn't seem to be getting the water to the right area of the blade and sparks were flying!
even after adjustment, i have a lot of sparks unless i go very, very slowly..any advice out there? the blade is quite thick, like 1/8 inch. not at all what i'm used to on the trim saw.
PLUS this thing is deafening! gonna have to get some good ear defenders before i try this again. it also dips the house lights when i first turn the motor on, this doesn't happen with the grinder or the trim saw..
needless to say, i am a little disappointed and hope to get some feedback in here about what i may be doing wrong (besides saving my money and buying a real lapidary unit, this was a present from hubby.)
thanks,
KD
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Post by MichiganRocks on Jan 2, 2005 14:30:12 GMT -5
Hey KD, if that's the saw I'm thinking about, it has a 2 1/2 hp motor. That draws a lot of juice. It probably uses brushes as well if it's that loud. A good induction motor is a whale of a lot quieter, but it costs more. A 10 inch tile saw shouldn't need a motor any bigger than 1 1/2 hp if the motor develops good torque. The blade that came with mine is only about 1/16 inch thick. If you see sparks, your blade is burning up! I have heard of some blades that need to be "broken in", but I've always been a little skeptical of that claim.
Normally your house should be wired in two halves. One side is for general use like lights. The other side is for item with motors like sump pumps, furnaces, saws. Start up draw on a motor is much higher than the steady running power draw. That's why the lights only dim when you start up. Since you're using water, you should also have a ground fault circuit or an inline ground fault plug.
Ron
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Post by rockyraccoon on Jan 2, 2005 15:54:57 GMT -5
those are the reasons i want a slab saw instead of a tile saw kd. i have to wear ear plugs when i saw or my ears will ring for another day. i think it's just too aggressive even with a lapidary blade for what i want it to do.
kim
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Post by krazydiamond on Jan 2, 2005 16:41:43 GMT -5
Kim, what kind of blade are you using and where did you get it? what kind of saw do you have?
Ron, our house is way too old to have any well wired infrastructure, but i do run it through a ground strip.
thanks for the input. i guess i need more space and a few thousand dollars for a REAL saw.
meanwhile, i still have a hammer.
KD
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Post by rockyraccoon on Jan 2, 2005 18:32:25 GMT -5
kd i have a mk-770 and i use the mk297 lapidary blade that i get from one of our flooring distributors - if you scroll to the bottom of this page it shows other lapidary blades. since i've cut with both the tile blade and the lapidary blade i have to say that the lapidary blade is better. some of those blades are thinner than mine but my options are limited as i have to have a 7" blade. www.mytoolstore.com/mk/bindex.html kim
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Post by krazydiamond on Jan 2, 2005 20:32:19 GMT -5
that is interesting, Kim, as i get the MK 303 blades (which i didn't see listed there) nice link tho, thanks,
KD
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Post by MichiganRocks on Jan 2, 2005 20:51:24 GMT -5
Hey Kd, when I mentioned a ground fault interupter, that's more than just a fuse or breaker. A normal breaker is a "slow blow" design. That's what allows your lights to dim when your saw starts instead of the breaker tripping even though you exceeded the break amperage during the motor startup. The problem with using a wet electrical appliance, the same "slow blow" would let you die before it kicked out. A ground fault will blow immediately if a short develops.
My saw is not that loud, but I always wear hearing protection anyway. A force of habit from being around manufacturing all my adult life.
Ron
Ron
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Post by rockyraccoon on Jan 2, 2005 21:53:58 GMT -5
kd the 303 is listed there - you must not have scrolled far enough down - there is a 1000, 303, 297, and 301.
kim
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Post by docone31 on Jan 2, 2005 23:00:33 GMT -5
Good that you got some kind of saw. Now you know why slab saws are designed the way they are! You will need earplugs, unless you want the kind of hearing I have. A GFI probably wouldn't hurt, and the dimmed lights are a normal start up of a large motor in a residential home. Sparks will fly when cutting. The blades however are really tough. A 1/8" kerf can be lived with, you are not cutting gemstones for faceting. Next is a grinder. Chicago electric 8" grinders are tough as nails, and I converted one to water. It is really easy. One side is a diamond wheel, one side is an 8"rubber wheel. I use belts on that side. A year later, I am still using the same 1200 belt, and 220 belt. Your power head is probably the same 2.5hp unit they put on their 10" circular saw, 10" chop saw, miter saw, and compound miter saw. It probably came with a bag with two brushes which I doubt you will ever need. I have never replaced mine. Good cutting
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Post by MichiganRocks on Jan 3, 2005 10:22:49 GMT -5
Hey KD, the problem with a 1/8 inch kerf is that a diamond blade works like a grinding wheel. Thus a 1/8 in kerf blade has to remove twice as much rock, or in other words do twice as much work, as a 1/16 inch kerf blade. More work means slower cutting and more problems with heat buildup.
Ron
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Post by krazydiamond on Jan 3, 2005 12:08:41 GMT -5
bigger kerf, longer cutting is right! i need to figure out how to rig the unit to do it's own feed. first i have to figure how to secure the rock (like that Jorgensen clamp). i have some books that show a jury rigged feed system.
then i have to find some little tiny ear defenders for the poor cat!
thaks for the input,
KD
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Post by MichiganRocks on Jan 4, 2005 7:26:54 GMT -5
Hey KD, something else I was thinking about as far as you getting sparks when you cut. You should make certain that your blade is perfectly square with the feed table. If the table and blade are not at exactly 90 degrees from each other or the feed rails are not exactly 90 degrees from the blade, your blade will bind every time, and binding will make it burn. If you're not sure what I mean I can send you some sketches.
Ron
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Post by krazydiamond on Jan 4, 2005 12:07:43 GMT -5
thanks for the tip, Ron, i checked that and i think i am cutting true with no binding from the table or guides. as i mentioned earlier in this post, i'm not altogether happy with the water delivery system on this unit and may try to improvise something different. i guess i am spoiled with the trim saw having a sump.
KD
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Post by docone31 on Jan 4, 2005 12:33:02 GMT -5
Every time I have used a tile saw, I have seen sparks. It seems like part of the process. Even dripping wet, I have seen sparks. I have come to believe it is the coarseness of the grit, as when I use thinner blades they only spark when I am careless.
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Post by MichiganRocks on Jan 4, 2005 13:38:46 GMT -5
This is an article on the UKAM site, they manufacture diamond tooling, including saw blades. These are the tips they give on using diamond blades.
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