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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 20, 2011 17:03:18 GMT -5
MK-301 14 x 060 x 1 MK-301 14 x 060 x 1 Click To Enlarge
Item #: 166070
Supreme grade "Gemking" notched rim blade for hard lapidary materials.
And the Saber 1000 notch.
Centurion Blades of the 70s - 90s were my favorite blades to use, And the MK-297 Standards
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 20, 2011 20:13:10 GMT -5
There will definitely be an arrow on the blade but sometimes really small and hard to find. I have an MK101 which is the tile version of the BD2014. It was a warranty return from Lowes so has a very much stronger frame than standard. I bought it to cut granite back splash pieces out of some 1" granite I salvaged. I used the 303P blue blade and it cut like butter. I tried that blade on softer stones and no problem. Agates up to 2" cut pretty well. Agates taxing limit of saw actually stalled the motor (1.5 hp, capacitor start). I then installed a 301 blade and it sailed through the big stuff though as I said it dulled pretty quickly when heavy handed feeding. Cut really smooth though, as well as any slab saw. On the BD2014 with standard frame there is a little frame flex but really cuts well with the 301 (on right direction) properly dressed.
As far as a 14" saw, either the 303C or 301 would work really well. You don't want the 303P on it for rock. MK found 40 of the old style 301 red blades .065" and have them on a dealer quantity discount. I would have to order 5 to offer pretty close to 303C price. They have a killer deal on 7" 303P blades but again I would have to order 5 or more. The 303P blades are really thick (tile blades after all) and made to cut porcelain, granite, etc.
I had both a 10" Frantom saw and combo unit. Every bit as good as anything HP made. 5/8" arbor so any standard blade will work well. I ran 303C .032" on mine but both were hand feed only. If you plan on using a gravity feed go for a .040".
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mworb
off to a rocking start
Member since June 2011
Posts: 11
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Post by mworb on Jun 21, 2011 3:27:56 GMT -5
John, I'd like one of the old-style 301 14-inch blades. If needed to make the order I'll take two as I'm sure to need a second eventually. Wish the good deal was on a 10 inch blade instead of a 7 inch! The blue 303P and the BD2014 saw does make a smooth cut. It was very even on some labradorite I cut. It also slabbed a 2-inch mookaite piece but very, very slowly... I had to stand over the saw with a dressing stick and touch it up while it was cutting. It never stalled... it just stopped making any progress unless I kept dressing it as it ran. I was afraid to force it. I hooked up a gravity feed with about 20 pounds of weight but I still have to keep dressing the blade as it works or it will just sit there and not cut. I'll break out the 301 and try it again. If it still won't cut, I may have a defective blade and will call Barranca again. If I decide to keep the Frantom combo unit I'll take your advice about the blade because mine does have a gravity feed.. Let me know if you run across a good deal on a 10-inch blade that would work. I got two of the Frantom saws and both blades are shot.... plus I have the BD2014 which is also 10- inch! Thanks.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 21, 2011 8:57:51 GMT -5
I have what I think are good deals on 10" blades all the time. The old style 14" blades are $297 list and if I ordered two the price would be $210 ea. If I ordered 5 or more they would be $190 ea. I'm leaving Monday for two weeks so if anybody needs blades there would be a delay but some good deals. The 7" 303P would be $91 list, $60 for one or two, $45 for 5 as an example. 303C 10" blades (.032" or .040") would be about $50 ea. for multiple blade orders. That's only a little better than my normal $53 or $55 ea. price. All these dealer specials have to be shipped to me not drop shipped unless someone wanted 5 of something on the special.
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Jun 21, 2011 12:59:53 GMT -5
I've said it before, but I think the 303C blade is fantastic and John's pricing is, as well. I currently use a 10", but when my 18" Felker blade dies I plan to replace it with a 303.
Chuck
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 21, 2011 15:30:09 GMT -5
Barranca Diamond Logo
Home History Contact Warranty Technical Library Lapidary Dealers Stone Dealers Catalogs & Price Lists Dealer Resources Product Search Lapidary Stone
Development History of the Notched Rim Lapidary Diamond Blade
1935-1939 Richard Felker, a pharmacist develops the first diamond blade. Felker uses rudimentary tools to strike an edge in the rim of a steel core and then adds a mixture of natural diamonds, metal powders, and olive oil to create a wheel that will cut both natural and manmade stone products.
1941-1942 The US Government War Department contracts Richard Felker to use diamond blades to cut optical grade quartz for crystal frequency tuning controls in radio transceivers and other military applications.
1942-1945 German engineers pioneer the development of metal bonded natural diamond blades capable of cutting green concrete for construction of German autobahn highways. Felker develops the first US manufactured sintered metal bond notched rim blades using natural diamonds. Les Kusnick and Emilio Valenti design and manufactured custom notching machinery and a furnace process for Felker. Process patented by Kusnick in 1941.
1948-1949 Felker is sold to Dresser Industries.
1949-1950 The Felker notched rim blade using natural diamonds is manufactured on a production scale for industrial and lapidary use.
1960-1970 General Electric Co. develops the first manmade synthetic diamonds. Musto Industries (MK Diamond) under direction of Mr. Paul Mitchell develops a diamond blade manufacturing facility in Hawthorne, California. Emilio Valenti leaves Felker to work for MK Diamond in the development of MK’s notched and segmented synthetic diamond blade manufacturing.
The Congo notched rim blade - first line of manmade synthetic diamond blades for lapidary use - is introduced into the lapidary market. Star Diamond Industries (Craft Tools), under Mr. Webb Morrow's direction develops a notched blade manufacturing process nearly identical to the MK Diamond and Felker process. Similar process is developed by Vanguard Industries (Federal-Mogul Corp). MK Diamond Products (Musto Industries) and Highland Park Manufacturing merge to continue the development and production of quality notched, segmented and continuous rim blades (Congo, Criterion, Gem King and Artisan Professional Blades).
Musto Industries sells MK Diamond to Mr. Robert J. Delahaut, Richard Rice and Bob Messner. Notched rim blade production continues although demand from the lapidary market continues to decline.
1986-1987 Star Diamond Industries acquires the lapidary blade manufacturing business from MK Products. Notched rim blades are marketed as Moonglow and Meteor models. MK continues to market Gemking and Criterion notched rim blades.
1987 MK Diamond sells the HP lapidary equipment division to Contempo Industries.
1988-1990 Felker and Vanguard (Target) terminate notched rim diamond blade manufacturing. This leaves Star Diamond as the single producer of notched rim blades for the lapidary industry.
1997-2005 Star Diamond Industries terminates the production of notched rim blades. Barranca Diamond acquires the manufacturing process and specialized tools and begins a process of redeveloping the notched rim blade. Barranca introduces a newly re-engineered line of lapidary notched rim blades to the marketplace, as well as drag, slab and trim saws, grinders and wet polishing systems.
2005-Present Barranca Diamond is acquired by MK Diamond Products, a market leader in the manufacturing and distribution of construction products.
Barranca Diamond Products 22815 Frampton Ave Torrance CA 90501
Phone: 310-523-5867 Toll-Free: 800-630-7682 Fax: 310-257-3063
E-mail: cs@barrancadiamond.com
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 21, 2011 19:43:49 GMT -5
Interesting history. Amazing how the ownership of the various companies have passed around over the years. When I toured the old Star Diamond facility while Dean still had it he had a brand new HP18 sitting next to his recently redesigned "Highland Precision" Barranca HP 18. When I asked about it he said he bought the HP from a club that bought it new but never used it. His Dad had bought HP then sold it later to Contempo Lapidary. They kept the HP name patent until a few years ago and incorporated the belt drive system in their redesigned saws. I do the Tucson show with BD/MK and am privileged to meet and visit with a who's who of lapidary while there. Bob Delahaut of MK spends a few days with us and I've met the former Contempo owner, Dan from Kingsley, former owner of Alpha, John Richardson, pretty much all the current rock shop owners from around the country that sell Mk or BD and some very interesting foreign customers. Even John Rowland (I know him from our Texas shows) that makes the HP now in China stopped by to visit. I don't think he was very popular with the BD/MK or other manufacturers though.
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 21, 2011 22:02:02 GMT -5
MK Diamond: An American Family Tradition Since 1868
San Francisco, c.1860Our family business started in San Francisco in 1868 by Joseph Musto, a fifth-generation Italian stone-cutter and tile-setter, whose ancestors were known as master craftsmen. He brought the skills of his forefathers to his new home in America and established the Musto Steam Marble Mill. The trademark of the business was its pledge to quality work and service. The Musto family believed that, good enough was never really good enough. It is from this work ethic that MK Diamond continues its unrelenting pursuit to producing quality products.
Los Angeles, c.1940In late 1919, Joseph's son, Clarence, came to Los Angeles. By 1949, the newly named Musto-Keenan Company had gained a reputation for making top quality diamond tools to cut marble and tile faster and more efficiently.
Beginning in 1974, and under the leadership of Robert J. Delahaut, the company moved in a direction that has established itself as a world leader for precision power cutting tools and diamond blades. We are committed to making our products and services the benchmark by which the rest of the industry will measure itself.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 21, 2011 22:10:07 GMT -5
Let me jump in on this discussion. What would be the best 10" blade for water cutting ? It doesn't have to be a thin blade. I just want to trim mineral specimens in a limestone matrix. Don
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 22, 2011 0:11:13 GMT -5
Wet tile blade
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 22, 2011 8:55:46 GMT -5
The 303P is made for water use and will handle limestone with no problem. Any of the 303C or 301 blades will cut soft rock with water too as long as you drain the water after use and wipe the blade dry. If you are using a metal bodied saw they are usually designed to use with oil. Extra care is needed to prevent bearing damage, corrosion, etc. If you want to cut a lot of specimens in limestone you might consider the MK101, BD2014 or Harbor Freight knock off. All are 10" tile saws so designed for water use. I run mine with either a 303P or 301 blade. After use I wipe blade and if I'm not using it again anytime soon I spray the blade with either WD40 or silicone spray.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 22, 2011 9:22:54 GMT -5
Thanks John. My saw is one of the older 10" Covingtons, without all of the problems of the newer saws. Earlier in this discussion, there was mention of squaring the edge of a blade. Years ago they made a tool just for this purpose. It consisted of a block of steel with a 3" ball bearing mounted on one end. The steel block was clamped in the vice, and the ball bearing was hand fed into the spinning blade. The hard outer race of the bearing would press against the outer edge of the spinning blade, and in just a couple of minutes you would have a nice square blade again. I don't know if this would work with the modern blades with new alloys used in the bonding process, but might be worth a try. I have one buried away in all of my stuff. If I can find it, I'll post a pic. Don
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 22, 2011 10:01:51 GMT -5
Don;
mounted on a 1" x15/16 brass rod, the centenary old Cooley hydrate i pulled the screw shaft out for a punch, Turned down the acme treads. i found that hand feeding the bearing into a red Gemking MK-297 18" mid -70s on date that it was cutting the bearing race.
So i used a number two bastard file, size of file - 1"-1/4 wide thickness is 1/4" length 14". hitting with the edge of the file, on the blade with equal hits on the circumstance, to the mark i made, so not the over run the point of starting.
this was a good idea, and i cut some rainbow obsidian, and then, i maxed the blades cutting with a large Brazilian agate. to re-true the blade. and of course, once you mount a rock, Never stop cutting tell its a heel-!!!
Won`t ever do the bearing ever!!! I did hand feed it still cut the bearing.!!!
Jack
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 22, 2011 10:10:44 GMT -5
I've heard quite a few people say they use the file method on blade edge.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 22, 2011 10:28:48 GMT -5
That's funny Jack. I used my bearing for several years, and except for minor wear on the outer race of the bearing, I had no problem with it. Are you sure your bearing was free to turn with the blade ?
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 22, 2011 11:13:14 GMT -5
That's funny Jack. I used my bearing for several years, and except for minor wear on the outer race of the bearing, I had no problem with it. Are you sure your bearing was free to turn with the blade ? New bearing out of the BOX.... Still in cabinet, never to be used again. and it a fine way to dish a blade
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 22, 2011 11:26:05 GMT -5
Never had a problem with a dished blade. But then I never used it on the newer thin blades. Are you sure you weren't using too much pressure when you fed the bearing into the blade ?
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 22, 2011 12:16:55 GMT -5
Never had a problem with a dished blade. But then I never used it on the newer thin blades. Are you sure you weren't using too much pressure when you fed the bearing into the blade ? Don, I was feeding it on the screw feed to the bull gear slowly. As soon as the bearing hit the blade, it cut groove in the bearing. A shop at agate beach north of Newport Oregon "Rock`y Joe rock shop" the manager Greg Humphrey, for the owner Joe Gillespie. Was showing me how he was using a bearing on a 3/4" bolt pushed on the the no tread area of the `shaft. will after ding this dumb stunt, I ask around. Ken White, Lebanon Oregon " Whites Lapidary " Told me to use the file as said above in last posting. I`l say again Don, The blade was a 70s MK-297 red Gemking. 18". Jack
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 22, 2011 12:40:48 GMT -5
Not sure of the maker of the blade I used to use the bearing tool on, but the saw was a 24" HP. Never had a bit of trouble with it. I've also heard of using the file, or peening the edge with a hammer, but never tried either of those. To each his own. What works for one person, won't always work for another. But it would seem to me that with the bearing you're sure that the tool is square to the cutting edge of the blade. Not so when you're peening the edge with a file or hammer. If you're not hitting perfectly square to the cutting edge, you may do more damage than good. But again, to each his own.
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jun 22, 2011 20:17:22 GMT -5
the other way is a four Oz. ball ping hammer our file edge.
Maintenance tech`s don`t make Dumb ass mistakes. "after 37 years in trade" and building lapidary equipment with Dad since 1961........
I just think you enjoy reading yourself. "Hearing yourself" !
As for hitting square, yes i have done many, never had a one yet.
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