jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Jul 21, 2011 0:02:23 GMT -5
I am looking to purchase a blade for the 10" saw I just picked up. I would like some input on which type of blade will work for me. I`ll be cutting a lot of Texas flint and jaspers so the rocks are very hard. I have looked at solid rim, segmented, and sentered types but am not sure which is best for me. I also am looking to buy one I can afford too! I have a sentered blade on my skilsaw which cuts concrete and stone pretty easily and has lasted me for years. Is solid rim a smoother cut? Thanks for any input. It`s my first good rock saw and have plenty waiting to be cut. It has a 2 1/2 hp motor to power it.
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Post by christopherl1234 on Jul 21, 2011 1:14:30 GMT -5
I use a TURBO blade on my 10" for the really hard less expensive material. For material that is pricier I use a Pro-Slicer
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 21, 2011 7:51:36 GMT -5
2 1/2 hp? If it has a power feed stick to .040" or thicker. If hand feed you can use thinner blades. You didn't say what speed your saw runs. I've used 303C continuous rim blades for many years and been very happy with them. The new 301 blades are even better but almost twice the cost. My first 10" saw I used one of the Green Chinese blades and had no problem. The next one wobbled so bad I bought a 303C (BD/MK) and never went back. Smooth, quiet cutting.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,487
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Post by Sabre52 on Jul 21, 2011 8:58:27 GMT -5
I love the 303C too. It's a very good blade for hard materials, long lasting, and not too expensive. Wow 2 1/2 HP is a hugely powerful saw motor.....Mel
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Post by deb193redux on Jul 21, 2011 9:15:56 GMT -5
I use 303C on my LS10 and 301 on my LS12. Both are true slab saws, both use oil coolant. Love both saws and both blades. Got great blade prices from JS Gems.
But, 2.5hp is typical for a type of tile saw with direct drive (no belt) blade-over-table tile saw where the table slides the work into the blade. These are water cooled.
Without more details about the saw, because 10" covers a lot of configurations and coolants, it would be a bit irresponsible and potentially confusing to say too much about blade recommendations - because they might not be best for YOUR setup.
Because tables that slide onto the bottom edge of saw blades, which is not a problem for flat tiles, but which is more likely to grab and bind fist sized rocks - especially when the table is advanced by hand - I would recommend a much thicker blade - at least .050. I would also recommend a rim a bit wider than the core to allow more of the water coolant to get in the cut. Water can evaporate inside the cut due to heat, while oil will not.
So say a bit more about the saw, or post a picture. Let us know about the clamp, and the feed ... etc. I am sure we can make some great recommendations with the right information.
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Jul 21, 2011 23:54:03 GMT -5
You`re right it is an overhead type tile saw but with belt drive. It can be fed 2 ways. It has a sliding table to which I plan on attaching a homemade rock vise. It can also be used like a chop saw and lower the saw head onto the work. It uses a seperate coolant pump which an outlet is provided on the motor head casing. It came with coolant tray but no pump which is ok because I can add whatever I want to for a coolant system. I thought oil would be better for cutting the hard flints.It`s not a great saw but for $50 i figured I had to get it and try it out. And it`s a 2 h.p. not 2.5. I was thinking of another saw of mine for woodworking. I`ve got 30 years experience with saws from being a carpenter so I have used many. I am very safe with tools. I`m also a certified OSHA inspector and instructor. And taught carpentry at the local community college for a short time.
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Post by deb193redux on Jul 23, 2011 22:13:09 GMT -5
The ship a 303C on the MK 101 tile saw, which sounds similar. BTW - great price on that used saw. I am not sure, but suspect it uses a .040.
You can get a 303C 10x.050x5/8 for about $90, the 301 is about the same price, but only goes up to .040 in 10" - however it seems stronger and more rigid. My 12" 301 seems more rigid than my 10" 303C.
There is a 303P which comes as thick as .067, but it is slotted. The slots help get coolant in, but one segment can bend in an accident. I used slotted 7" MK blades and they worked well.
You can get the .040 303C for under $60, so you do pay for the extra thickness.
How heavy is your hand?
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Jul 25, 2011 2:20:38 GMT -5
Thanks for that info. My hand is only there to hold it. I go by sound when judging my rate of cuts on materials. No matter what kind of saw it is. I think I`ll try a solid rim and see how that goes. I may end up with a segmented blade also which I`m told cut harder materials better. Thanks for the input folks.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 25, 2011 8:37:03 GMT -5
The BD2014 (Barranca version of MK101 10" tile saw) comes standard with the 303P blade. The last two winters they sold it with the 301 on their winter sale. I tried one on my MK101 and it cuts rock like butter but does dull quickly with hard (abusive) hand feeding. I have not tried the 303C yet but it has same high carbon steel core as the 301 so should be OK at the 3450 rpm. If you have too much problem with the high speed you can pulley it down a little.
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