bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Sept 11, 2011 13:56:58 GMT -5
Does anyone have any experience with using a larger blade on a cheap 7" tile saw?
Does anyone know how a thinner blade would work?
One more question. Is it better to buy small rough and cut your own slabs in hopes of finding that special slab for cutting a cab or to purchase a slab? I've kind of been leaning to the buying rough side because I figure those who slab rocks for sale are also cabbing and keeping the best for themselves.
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blessed
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by blessed on Sept 11, 2011 16:35:54 GMT -5
There was a post a few days back about a larger blade on a 7" saw. To much work for me. The saw had to be modified big time. I will vote for a thinner blade. This is only my openion, buy slabs. Small rough = small cab. James
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Post by tntmom on Sept 11, 2011 16:36:24 GMT -5
Bob,
I upgraded my 7" tile saw with a 7" MK-303 lapidary blade. It is AWESOME and thin! I will never go back to standard tile saw blades, they're too thick and I never could get a clean cut with it.
~Krystee
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Sept 11, 2011 20:25:38 GMT -5
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Sept 12, 2011 3:37:07 GMT -5
Bob, I upgraded my 7" tile saw with a 7" MK-303 lapidary blade. It is AWESOME and thin! I will never go back to standard tile saw blades, they're too thick and I never could get a clean cut with it. ~Krystee Thanks Krystee, this is probably just what I am looking for. What do you use for lubricant? The blade that I looked at said water was not suitable for this blade. Nate: I would love to go 10" but can't do any welding. I guess I will go to the 7" blade here and consider a larger saw when I have more money. But maybe you can help with the lubricant question I asked above.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Sept 12, 2011 20:22:54 GMT -5
You wouldn't need a welder, Bob. Sheet metal screws would work just fine to hold up that blade guard. making the blade opening wider could be done with a hack saw, or even a file. I used an angle grinder. A dremel with the correct bit would work nicely too.
As far as lubricant, I use plain water for mine. I know Donnie puts Borax in her water and says it aids in the cutting. I'm guessing it lubricates somewhat. I'd like to try that, but always dump my water out on the lawn, so it wouldn't be good for the grass. (borax kills plants from what I've read).
Have fun whatever you decide to do.
Nate
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blessed
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by blessed on Sept 12, 2011 21:38:01 GMT -5
Nate; Your post was the one I was talking about. The new WF are made out of plastic. You know, newer and cheaper at a higher price. I just bought a 10" tile saw to do most of my cutting. I still use my WF.
James
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Sept 13, 2011 0:25:26 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply Nate. I have no idea why I even need a splash guard anyway. I stand at the back and pull my slabs toward me. I have a hack saw, my son has an angle grinder which he probably will not let me use but I can use my dremel.
Are there any problems with the motor handling a 10" blade and yeah I saw how much bigger it was. Does that mean that I will actually be able to buy rough and slab it? LOL!!!
So if I understand this right, really all I have to do is open up the hole for the saw blade and and lift it up with something like your bolts idea.
Now then, can someone explain to me (sorry I am not all that mechanically inclined but can get by when told what to do. I just change brakes on my car and a few other things. Points, plugs, condensor, rotor on the old cars basic tune up stuff) what a rock vice is and how to use it. Better yet, do I need one?
I dump my water in the grass too. I would consider Tool Cool or something like that from Kingsley North but the way that saw throws out water, I probably would go through it real fast.
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Post by tntmom on Sept 13, 2011 1:09:58 GMT -5
Hey Bob!
To answer your earlier question... yes the MK blades state that water isn't a suitable lubricant but.... I have no problems whatsoever using water and my blade has held up perfectly, still cutting like the day I got it, and waaaaay longer than the original cheap thick blade that came with my saw and the replacement that I wasted money on. I just make sure I rinse it well and dry it after each use. ~Krystee
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 13, 2011 10:09:25 GMT -5
Pretty much all blades cut better with oil than water. The blade core on the 303/301 blades are tool steel so will rust if left in water. The blades work fine on smaller blades (to 10") if you drain after use and either dry the blade or spray it with WD40. Oil is a bad choice on any plastic bodied saw as it dissolves the plastic over time.
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Sept 13, 2011 11:00:41 GMT -5
Thanks John. I've seen that rust on the blade that I have now. Up to this point I have never drained the water or sprayed with WD 40 but I will start. My saw is metal except for the guard around the blade. Still a little more care sounds in order.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
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Post by NDK on Sept 13, 2011 15:50:28 GMT -5
The 10" blade will throw that water around like you wouldn't believe. I hate that splash guard too, but it keeps the water from the blade off me. Every time I cut I think of making another. I'm heading out there now, maybe I'll chop that one up and see how it works. I'll post pix here if it does. Nate Here's a video of the saw so you can see how it throws the water. I have also added a plastic guard over the blade to help contain the spray. I plan to make that a more permanent one with sheet metal and a few screws, but the plastic works well for now. Surprisingly the masking tape holds quite well even though it gets soaked every time it's ran. I hacked away a bunch of the plastic from the guard, and now I can see the blade much better whle cutting. I'm sure the larger blade will wear out prematurely because of the speed at which it runs, but it gets the job done for minimal cost of upgrading. As yuo can also see, I ditched the plastic tub that came with the saw and set it in a plastic lid form a garbage can. It hold a lot more water and doesn't need to be refiled unless I'm making a ton of cuts. click the photo to play
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 14, 2011 14:24:28 GMT -5
Rust on the blade is not an issue. The issue is a blade left standing in water will cause the blade to rust through where submerged. If you cut every day it maybe isn't an issue. My MK145 4" tile saw will have a rusty stripe at the bottom edge if I forget to dump it.
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Post by jakesrocks on Sept 14, 2011 14:48:18 GMT -5
Lost a blade that way on my Genie trim saw. Loaned my machine to a friend while I was on an extended vacation. He left it sitting with water in the tank. When I picked up the machine, the blade had rusted all the way through.
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Sept 22, 2011 22:42:59 GMT -5
Debated starting another thread, but figured I would just keep on this one.
I have decided to modify my saw to a 10" blade. Would even go larger if possible.
What is a good brand blade to get. I want a lapidary blade that can cut thin slices. (If I wasn't modifying I would go with Krystee's recommendation)
Just one more question before I actually do the modification. In the past I have always stood at the back of the saw and pulled the slab or rough toward me. Does this have any adverse affect on the wear of the blade? I would like for this new blade to last.
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 23, 2011 9:55:02 GMT -5
I would check your motor rpm. My 10" tile saw works great at 3450 but dulls blades quickly. My 7" tile saw runs 5500 rpm. I don't know of any 10" blades made to turn that fast but would probably use a one piece blade like the green crimped blade (I think they are rated for 3500 rpm so they would dull/wear really quickly as well).
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unclestu
Cave Dweller
WINNER OF THE FIRST RTH KILLER CAB CONTEST UNCLESTU'S AGUA NUEVA AGATE
Member since April 2011
Posts: 2,298
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Post by unclestu on Sept 23, 2011 11:28:36 GMT -5
I purchased some sort of additive to prevent rust from forming if I use water in my trim saw. So far so good no rust. There was also a suggestion to use windshiled washer fluid as it will help prevent the rust as well. I had to stop using that as it let off some nasty fumes that made me dizzy. and i am already to dizzy.LOL Stu
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Sept 23, 2011 13:06:25 GMT -5
I just use borax in my water and clean the saw up every time I finish cutting. I leave it open and have a removable sump that I can let the junk settle and poor off the borax mix to use again if I want. Generally I just dump the whole mess and start fresh and clean the next time - borax is cheap
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Sept 23, 2011 15:21:39 GMT -5
The specs on my saw say 3600 RPM
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 23, 2011 17:23:57 GMT -5
Barranca puts one of their new 301's on their 3450 rpm 10" saw every Winter which is a token OK. I'm guessing a 303C would be OK too as the core is same. I wouldn't use anything too thin. I'm using a .040" 301 and it cuts 4" agates like butter.
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