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Post by deb193redux on Apr 13, 2013 19:21:42 GMT -5
I got a 1/2hp motor for my new-to-me 14: HP, but I am a little unclear on the wiring. Here is the terminals and the diagram on the motor. Anyone expert with this king of diagram?
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 13, 2013 23:48:54 GMT -5
The yellow tabs on the ends of the wires are labeled with the letter/numbers on the left column of the label. The letters in the right column represent the threaded terminal posts, most likely stamped or etched into the circuit board material they are mounted to Line 1 and line 2 represent the power supply wires. High volts is 230, low is 115v. It looks to me like it is currently set up for high volts. That would make the post with 3 wires post "T". Get a flashlight in there and look for the letters next to the posts.
Lee
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Post by deb193redux on Apr 14, 2013 7:53:03 GMT -5
ok, will get wire tag info this afternoon
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Post by rockpickerforever on Apr 14, 2013 9:48:10 GMT -5
I'm no electronics genius, but it looks like the tag says it is 0.5 HP, not 1.2... Jean
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Apr 14, 2013 12:36:48 GMT -5
I'm no electronics genius, but it looks like the tag says it is 0.5 HP, not 1.2
/
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Post by phil on Apr 14, 2013 12:44:38 GMT -5
Yeppers, that's a 1/2 HP, not a 1.2 HP. Probably a typo? Anyway, 1/2 HP is a bit underpowered for a 14 inch saw..... 3/4 HP would be better, run cooler, and last longer. Remember you may have to reverse the direction also (D.O.R. on the label - purple and T8 wires). Best to ask the folks you bought it from to set the wiring up if you are unsure. Can you get a pic that shows the labeling on the circuit board also?
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Post by deb193redux on Apr 14, 2013 14:11:41 GMT -5
yes, "/" not "." side by side keys. typo. oops.
I got this very inexpensively and getting the seller to set it up is not an option. If I had paid 250% more I could have gotten one form a local AC motor shop and they would have wired it for a nominal bench time fee. But, I chose to save the dollars and figure it out myself - even if it take a bit longer.
I debated 3/4, but some 14" have 1/2hp, and this particular 1/2hp is being used (for several years now) by a friend who rebuilds saws and he reports it has plenty of power. Not it is capacitor run as well as capacitor start.
I will read all the wire tags today. May be a good opportunity to use my optivisor. Reading any terminal names on the underlying board will be harder.
Stay tuned
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Post by Peruano on Apr 14, 2013 15:24:35 GMT -5
Daniel, I'm sure those marks on the board will be readable once you illuminate them and pry around the obstructing wires. I'm trying to see on the labeling or ?? how I would tell if it was a capacitor start or running motor. I can't see any indication. I"m not doubting just trying to learn how to read these labels too. Good luck with that beast. I just upgraded to a 1/2 hp on my 12" too - opportunistically grabbed an old swamp cooler motor that I had a hand so its not a large investment for me to see how it works relative to the old motor. Good luck. Tom
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 15, 2013 8:57:26 GMT -5
What Lee said. IF capacitor start it should power your saw well. If the yellow wire tags are fragile have some masking tape handy and relabel them.
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Post by phil on Apr 15, 2013 9:46:27 GMT -5
Maybe this will help. I lightened up your pic.... can see the wiring better, but not any labeling on the board. (You can see the capacitor in the upper edge of the label photo.) Attachments:
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 15, 2013 10:24:48 GMT -5
You can identify the terminals by the wires then. Just be careful to see which wires are where. Then make a terminal diagram accordingly.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 15, 2013 10:25:41 GMT -5
By the way, if the motor is new it will be wired for 220V.
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,352
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Post by quartz on Apr 15, 2013 10:32:02 GMT -5
I was thinking of your problem this A.M. Perhaps you could get a better understanding of the wiring by studying the wiring itself, and the diagram on the motor, and drawing it out on paper to get the locations right. I've fiddled w/a bunch of motors over the years, can't remember any not having markings on the "circuit board" hope this isn't an exception. Maybe they don't show up well. BTW, our 16" Royal saw has run great for many years with a 1/2 h.p. motor.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 15, 2013 12:26:53 GMT -5
Barranca uses a heavy duty 1/2 hp on their 14" too. The high torque capacitor start makes a big difference. A light duty cooler motor or other PSC 1/2 hp is an apples and oranges thing.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 15, 2013 14:23:54 GMT -5
Thanks for that clarification Phil (and others). So I guess is something is a capacitor start, it has the round cylinder like tube on the top of the motor (no indication on label?). I'm seeing two screws attaching something to the top of the motor in the label photo and having to deduce that it is the cylinder that I have seen on other motors known to be capacitor start. My swamp cooler 1/2 hp does not have such an addition and I did sense a bit of heat from the motor while using it today so probably should go back to the old capacitor start or buy a new one like Daniel. So with everyone's patience, lets go a bit further. This is a two speed motor although Daniel is likely to run it at 1790 instead of 1495 so he is only going to hook up line 1 or line 2 not both and the t and s terminals for neutral and ground once he figures out which is which. Am I correct. Tom
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Post by deb193redux on Apr 15, 2013 14:38:11 GMT -5
The tube on top is how I determine capacitor start. If there are two tubes, I say, also capacitor run. I will take off the progressive glasses and get more light and use my optivisor and make a terminal map and read all the tags. I think it is wired for 220, so I will need to switch a few things around, and I may as well make sure the wire for reversing direction is on top (easy) just in case. I guess I knew this from the start, I was just dreaming of a shortcut. I go this for $99 shipping included, and I had 1st had recommendation that it was really powerful. www.ebay.com/itm/250878914601it is open drip proof, and I would have preferred totally enclosed fan cooled, but the only one seller had like that was 1.5hp and cost $150.
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 16, 2013 21:04:55 GMT -5
The club here has a 16" saw that runs off a non-capacitor 1/2HP has had pretty much continuous use for over 4 years, has never been stalled by a rock. Cap start/run is better though. Killer price too! Hows the progress Daniel?
Lee
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Post by deb193redux on Apr 16, 2013 21:39:22 GMT -5
Lee, I just finished it. Once I saw that it was wired for 208v, I just took every wire loose. Then I saw the terminals were labeled A, Az, T, Z, S, and K. (I don't know why I assumed they would be 1,2,3,4,5,6).
I put it all together with PURPLE and T8 on top of their respective terminals. I plan to test power tomorrow to see the rotation.
I plan to put the motor under the saw, so I know I need rotation rear to front.
I have to build a motor self hanging down form the table it sits on, so this may not get done until the weekend. I figure some 3/8 ot 1/2" allthread, nuts, and lock washers.
Work in progress.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 16, 2013 22:00:17 GMT -5
Tom, it is a single speed motor. The lower speed rating is if used on 50Hz. If it was a two speed the wiring diagram would indicate how to wire for hi or lo. Your cooler motor is a low starting torque motor for starting a belt drive blower. The start capacitor adds higher starting torque for doing more work. Your motor may work fine. And yes, the "cylinder shaped cover" is the start capacitor cover. If there are two the other is a run capacitor which makes the motor run more efficiently.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 17, 2013 7:43:40 GMT -5
John, Thanks for the clarification. I'm sure more than one of us has learned something from this thread. My 1/2 hp cooler motor is working fine so far sans capacitor start; but then again the ancient `1/4 hp with a cap start did too until I decided to swap them out when it occasionally would not light up on the first flip of the switch. The problem probably was a flimsy gfi that I had borrowed off of a power scrubber. Danniel, Good luck with that new saw and motor. It will be nice when you get it up and running. Tom
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