ash
spending too much on rocks
Prairieville, Louisiana
Member since July 2012
Posts: 361
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Post by ash on Jun 11, 2013 22:33:31 GMT -5
So I have a 10" covington saw, feeds by weight. I have been using this saw for slabbing some smaller stuff. What I have noticed is that the saw gets progressively louder the longer I cut. I started looking into this and discovered that there is a lot less oil as it goes. I drained it today, after running the saw for a good while, several hours and the reservoir side was full, but the blade side seemed to be practically empty! I have changed the oil, so is clean and not full of junk.
My question is this, what can I do to keep lubrication on the blade without having to take the top off the thing and pour some in every so often? Also, how do you guys recover used oil? What I mean by that is how do you get the goop out lol. Do you drain the saw and let it set and then pour off the top? Or filter it in some way? Or just say what the heck and keep on keepin on?
Thanks in advance for any help with this, especially how to keep the thing oiled and not go 'twang' with my shiny new blade.
Ash
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Post by deb193redux on Jun 11, 2013 22:49:14 GMT -5
sounds like you have a clog ... if the blade is running dry, do not use saw. fix clog.
... and yes we poor off the top and filter. paper bags work well. does take time, so extra oil is needed to avoid downtime.
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ash
spending too much on rocks
Prairieville, Louisiana
Member since July 2012
Posts: 361
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Post by ash on Jun 12, 2013 10:56:14 GMT -5
thanks for the response. I took off the top and can not find a hole from the reservoir to the blade side to be clogged. Does the oil flow over the top from the reservoir to the blade side? If so, I am thinking that I need to be adding oil when it gets low and that the reservoir will always stay full? I apologize for my ignorance, I'm a newby at this sort of thing. I really wish that the top was easier to take off.
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Post by phil on Jun 12, 2013 11:11:51 GMT -5
The Covington 10 inch saws have a major flaw and you've discovered it. The oil transfer knob is way too small and clogs constantly because it's right under the cutting edge of the blade where all the gunk builds up.What? Oil transfer knob... yeah took us awhile to figure that out too. facing the front of the saw look underneath the tabletop on the left side and you'll see a knob. You open and close this knob to control oil transfer from the main reservoir to the blade reservoir. And it's too small, as I said. Open that puppy up and leave it open, as it is inadequate for the job. Solutions? 1. Overfill and have the blade slinging oil everywhere like crazy. You have to put a cork in the rear drain hole tho or you'll have an oily mount Vesuvius. We don't like this option... 2. Remove the 2 screws and nuts and install threaded inserts so you can quickly remove the 3 screws, lift the tabletop and use an old paint stir stick to move the crud away from the transfer hole. Works, but load up again after a days use. We're currently dong this, but wish there was a better way... and there is but... 3. Take a right angle drill and drill several holes low in the baffle between reservoirs to allow easy oil transfer, then don't overfill. We want to try this, but don't have a right angle drill. We do have... 4. take a 4 inch grinder with a metal cutting blade and cut slices out of the baffle allowing oil transfer. But then you have no control at all. 5. remove the baffle and get ready... 6. What I want to do is remove the two drain plugs and put in a pipe nipple. Connect them to a drain hose which leads to a "reservoir" under the saw. Install a small, low flow pump in the res and tie it to the on switch. Run the discharge from the pump to a zert fitting (like those used for grease on your car) where the oil is directed directly onto the blade. Voila, problem fixed. Unfortunately, the city owns the saw, and I cant make any changes to the structure. So, we do #2 about once a week. fast and easy on and off, and takes about 2 minutes to scrape the crud away from the transfer hole. Oh... and clean it out often. It does tend to load up fairly quickly no matter what you're cutting. Hope this helps! Phil
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ash
spending too much on rocks
Prairieville, Louisiana
Member since July 2012
Posts: 361
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Post by ash on Jun 12, 2013 11:22:12 GMT -5
Thanks Phil
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Post by deb193redux on Jun 12, 2013 12:41:14 GMT -5
I have a 10" covington I have not set up yet. I am going to have to look closely at this drain knob.
I think I like the idea of making flow holes or slits between the two compartments.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 12, 2013 17:20:15 GMT -5
In addition to the good information Phil and others have given you for this type of saw, always make sure your saw table is leveled properly.
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Post by phil on Jun 12, 2013 17:28:00 GMT -5
I have a 10" covington I have not set up yet. I am going to have to look closely at this drain knob. I think I like the idea of making flow holes or slits between the two compartments. If it's brand new, and you can, you might consider returning it and getting a different brand. I like the Raytech 10-inch trim/slab combo saw with removable sump for easy cleanup. Oil or water use. Wholesale for $523 at Kingsley. If I could swap ours out for one of these, I'd do it in a New York Minute! Removable sump means easy to put the dirty oil at the end of each day/week/use/whatever directly into the filter bag and start with clean oil everytime you start up!
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Post by deb193redux on Jun 12, 2013 19:41:04 GMT -5
no, it is used. and gravity feed. I got it w/o motor or blade, but for only a little over $100. Was a deal. It has been waiting for me to set it up for almost 10 months. I also have a 2nd LS10 waiting to be set up. And lot to fix in my shop.
My energy has been very low due to some anemia from chronic bleeding, and there is some chronic pain and medication side effect that disturbs sleep. I have not cut a rock for weeks, and the slab bucket has needed cleaning out for almost as long. I keep waiting for a day when I feel some pep. Might be time for another iron infusion at the hospital.
btw, isn't that the 6" at Kingsley for $523?
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Post by phil on Jun 12, 2013 19:43:40 GMT -5
Nope that's the price without motor or belt. I can get those cheaper locally, and not have to pay shipping to boot. The 6 inch is $600 with motor, belt, and etc. Check out Kingsleys website for Item # 9-1060. I took the price from the catalog they just sent me.
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Post by deb193redux on Jun 12, 2013 20:21:41 GMT -5
I see it now. But, I have more saws that electric circuits right now. ... and I'm not using the ones I have.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Jun 13, 2013 8:56:39 GMT -5
I got hold of a Covington 10" years ago. Took one look at this tank you are talking about and sent it down the road. Didn't want to deal with it. I probably would remove the entire baffle. I did like the vise though.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Jun 13, 2013 8:57:55 GMT -5
PS.........for a patented design that's been around forever there's sure a lot of complaints.
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Post by phil on Jun 13, 2013 15:40:27 GMT -5
They do listen to suggestions tho. I guess no one has ever given them a heads up on the 10 inch design. They'd have been far better with the transfer hole to the rear where the crud doesn't pile up so fast, or to just eliminate the baffle and make it a sling saw with a hinged top.
We cleaned ours today.... amazing how much crud builds up in a month of restricted use. Course, it could be our blade too.. we're using crimped edge blade and they create lots of rock waste. Maybe we should switch to a sintered blade when this new one dies. Our last one lasted almost 7 months and tons of cuts!
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ash
spending too much on rocks
Prairieville, Louisiana
Member since July 2012
Posts: 361
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Post by ash on Aug 11, 2013 6:51:49 GMT -5
In case anyone is interested...This is how I resolved this problem with the saw. I could not find a right-angled drill with short enough clearance to get in the tank to drill holes, it is a tight fit buddy! I ended up removing the oil transfer knob completely and just ran a bit through that hole to where the oil transfer hole already was. I drilled it out and a couple more in the vicinity for good measure, put the oil transfer knob back in and cranked that puppy up. The oil will still get gunked up after awhile, but it does seem to work better. I think that this works better with clean stones, so from now on it will be agate, obsidian and pet wood for me. Thanks to everyone for the info, you guys are great!!! Ash
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Aug 13, 2013 21:53:03 GMT -5
Cool glad you are up and running!
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Aug 16, 2013 6:44:14 GMT -5
The Covington 10 inch saws have a major flaw and you've discovered it... 2. Remove the 2 screws and nuts and install threaded inserts so you can quickly remove the 3 screws, lift the tabletop and use an old paint stir stick to move the crud away from the transfer hole. Works, but load up again after a days use. We're currently dong this, but wish there was a better way... and there is but... So, we do #2 about once a week. fast and easy on and off, and takes about 2 minutes to scrape the crud away from the transfer hole. Oh... and clean it out often. It does tend to load up fairly quickly no matter what you're cutting. Hope this helps! Phil Phil, Could you provide some pictures of the inserts you are using, and maybe the size and thread count too? -Also, where did you purchase the inserts? Automotive store?, HD?, etc. -Maybe some simple instructions how to do this switch-over too would be greatly appreciated for the newbie. I like this idea, and would like to implement it in my saw too. Michael
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Post by phil on Aug 21, 2013 13:00:31 GMT -5
Michael, You need to get the insert size based on the hole you're installing them in. Then you need to tap the hole, etc. All depends on the size hole you're starting with. Simply measure it, then go to the hardware store and ask for help picking the right ones. They look like a bolt on the inside AND outside... Threads both surfaces. I bought mine at Ace Hardware.
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