|
Post by Jugglerguy on Jul 29, 2013 20:59:35 GMT -5
I got my new saw running this evening. I wasn't entirely successful though. I started with a fist sized piece of Petoskey stone because it was soft and I figured it would be easier. The first cut pushed the blade to the side and into the slot on the top of the table. Is there a way to make sure the blade isn't deflected when the leading edge of the rock is not square to the blade? The next cut was more square and I really eased the rock into the blade. My saw has a fence on the opposite side of the blade from the vice, but I'm not sure what its purpose is. I assumed that it was just to cut slabs of uniform thickness, but what it actually does is stop the rock from progressing through the saw. The rocks get wedged up against it. When I loosen the set screw on the fence to allow it to move out of the way, the rock starts moving again. After two slabs of Petoskey, I switched to a piece of Lake Superior unakite, similar to granite. The part being sawn was about an inch and a half in diameter. I took off a sliver to get started with no problem. Then I attempted my first quarter inch slab on this rock. I got half way through the rock and it jammed and stalled the motor. After quickly unplugging the motor, I had to remove the vice from around the rock and still had to really work to get the rock off the blade. I have no idea what jammed it on there. The blade doesn't appear to be bent. I was using water with about 1/3 pink RV antifreeze for lubricant. The blade is the green economy blade from this site: ColorWright. That was my last rock. I need help before I break something!
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 29, 2013 21:24:29 GMT -5
hey rob, my first suggestion is to just remove that fence to make sure that's not the whole problem. Blade deflection occurs more on the thinner blades and I am not sure what thickness the green blades are. I just hand pull my vise cable till the blade barely makes contact then ease the pressure so the blade nicks the rock and then starts the cut rather then being forced on an odd angle.
Hope you get it corrected! Chuck
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Jul 29, 2013 21:34:26 GMT -5
just go slow ... try to orient stone as square as possible. ... if very round, cut in half and use slab grabber on cut face ... don't use too thin blade ... how thick is your blade?
|
|
|
Post by Jugglerguy on Jul 29, 2013 21:34:30 GMT -5
My blade is .031 inches thick. I don't know if that's considered thick or thin.
What I really can't figure out is how the last rock got wedged so firmly on the blade. It was like the kerf was narrower than the blade.
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Jul 29, 2013 21:37:22 GMT -5
.031 is good for 6" or 8", a little thin for hand feed on 10", but ok for vise and gravity feed
make sure coolant is high enough on blade
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Jul 29, 2013 21:43:45 GMT -5
I agree with Chuck. Hand feed your vice slowly until you have a small notch started. Then hook up your weight feed. Most Petosky stones are round beach pebbles. If the blade makes contact with a rounded edge under weight, it will try to follow the curved edge. Also, make sure your rock is tight in the vise. Try to move it by hand before feeding it to the blade. If need be, you can always use small wooden wedges to get a firm grip on the rock.
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 29, 2013 22:26:07 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that every rock bind issue I have had has been related to a rock coming loose in the vise. but your fence could be it since I dont have one of those.
Chuck
|
|
|
Post by Rockoonz on Jul 29, 2013 22:42:11 GMT -5
Definitely remove the fence, they really don't work well for much of anything.
Lee
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Jul 30, 2013 8:53:35 GMT -5
I never thought of that as a fence. A fence is intended to remain in place during cutting, and extends back along the blade. These guides seem more to assist with advancing the slab when there is no cross-feed. They usually do not extend back very far along the blade. I would not be so quick to dispense with it. Try to experiment and see if it seems to be the problem. Unless it is clearly the problem, retain it.
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 30, 2013 9:09:04 GMT -5
I would consider it a thickness gauge. It is adjustable along the length of the saw too with the thumbscrew on top. right now its shown next to the blade where it could create a pinch point. you can try sliding it toward the front of the saw so you can still push the rock over to it to set the depth but then it might be less likely to bind the blade. I was just suggesting to removing for now to eliminate one possible cause. It would be nice to be able to use it but its not worth risking bending that brand new blade Chuck
|
|
panamark
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,343
|
Post by panamark on Jul 30, 2013 9:32:33 GMT -5
Hi Rob, As others have indicated, I don't think that other part is a true fence (full length like a wood saw), but is only a depth gauge. It likely is causing the problem and needs to be moved further back from the blade. If the rock pivots at all (i.e. not parallel) it will pinch between blade and that gauge and REALLY get jammed. That is probably why the small sliver didn't jam. Also be sure the rock is moving exactly parallel to the blade at all times. Have you "trued" your carriage to the blade? Make sure it truly runs parallel to the blade by sticking a pencil in it so it almost touches the front edge of the blade. Then advance the carriage and check the distance is the same throughout. Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Jul 30, 2013 11:41:23 GMT -5
on a trim saw, the carriage is just that little vise and the rod it slides on. The guide rail and arbor should be 90-deg. But over such small trim-saw difference you would need a really pronounced departure from 90-deg to cause a problem.
was this blade new? if not, could it be glazed or even dished?
|
|
|
Post by Jugglerguy on Jul 30, 2013 14:23:56 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help. I've been trying all day to get back to my saw, but my wife keeps coming up with other things for me to do. The blade was brand new before I used it last night. It's a cheap blade, but bikerrandy recommended it. He likes them. The depth guage/fence is not adjustable except to adjust the depth. It does not slide up and down the length of the blade. I'm going to just get it out of the way for now. I have not checked to see if the vice runs parallel to the blade yet, but I don't see how it would be adjusted if it were out of alignment. The brackets that hold the rod are molded right into the tabletop. I also left the water/antifreeze mix in the saw overnight and got some rust on the blade. I'll look into borax, but I'll probably just end up sponging it out each time I use it.
|
|
panamark
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,343
|
Post by panamark on Jul 30, 2013 14:39:36 GMT -5
Rob, on that first picture the saw blade looks like it is not centered in the table hole/groove. It looks VERY close to the edge on the right side. Is that supposed to be like that, or is it just an optical illusion? Also, I see rust already on the saw blade which is odd. I use borax and never see rust, so maybe the borax works.? - Mark
|
|
|
Post by Jugglerguy on Jul 30, 2013 16:46:51 GMT -5
I'm guessing the borax works, because that rust formed overnight with just water and antifreeze. The blade is close to the side of the groove, but not touching. The only way I could change that is by adding a washer before the blade.
|
|
robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
|
Post by robsrockshop on Jul 30, 2013 17:19:36 GMT -5
As messy as it might be you need to use it without your cover to find out exactly what's going on.
Asides from the fence thing it sounds as if the rock spun loose in the vise which can be several things.......odd shape, not tight enough, too fast an initial advance into the blade.
Also........this type vise can do what's known as 'riding up' the blade in which the right side of the vise could raise off the table and that would def cause binding.
I would also make sure you have a kerf started before letting go of the vise and it's a possibility you have to much weight on it? Really hard telling without being there.
|
|
drumchuck
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2010
Posts: 21
|
Post by drumchuck on Jul 30, 2013 17:50:49 GMT -5
In the last photo, looks like the guige wire that the vice slide rides on is really bent. I have the same saw and had a similar problem with my saw.The wire need to be perfectly straight.
|
|
panamark
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,343
|
Post by panamark on Jul 30, 2013 17:51:09 GMT -5
Lots of good tips above. I think maybe the blade should be centered in the hole though, so maybe check your washer/flange arrangement to see if it is correct order. Maybe someone with your saw can chime in here. I think you are about ready to rip though. Good luck, Mark
|
|
|
Post by Jugglerguy on Jul 30, 2013 18:01:41 GMT -5
Well, I've got lots of things to try. I still haven't gotten a chance to get the saw going again.
Drumchuck, I just made that wire when someone pointed out that it was missing. When I put it in, it was slightly long and bowed up. I didn't think that was a good idea, so I bent it sideways so it would lay flat. I can't see how that would matter (it might matter, I just don't understand how). If its a possible problem, I'll make another just to eliminate it.
Rob, I don't think it rode up the blade or was in the vice too loosely, but possibly.
I hope to get back out to the saw later tonight. I'm doing a presentation on rock tumbling for some kids tomorrow, so I have to gather up some stuff for that.
|
|
|
Post by rockmanken on Jul 31, 2013 16:44:29 GMT -5
I have used that type saw many years ago. The fence is just a guage. It has always been a problem. It cannot be adjusted except for an in and out guage. Leave it against the side. The wire is for the vise to slide on evenly. Needs to be straight. clamp a pencil in the vice with it touching the blade and slide the vice thru and see if it binds. That will tell you if the shims in the slide are wore. NOTCH the rock first before pushing or addind weight. Hard to guage how much weight to put on. Use less for a while to let it cut slower and see if that isn't the REAL problem. Too much weight and it can't keep up with the feed and it WILL ride up. You cant see it because the blade is in the rock.
Ken
|
|