tereza
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 14 
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Post by tereza on Nov 7, 2019 17:36:43 GMT -5
Hi folks, I recently bought used Highland Park 10TSB 10" trim/slab saw and have some questions I was hoping somebody here could have answers for  This is the saw (I am sorry i don't know how to make the pictures smaller here):  It has a thin diamond blade installed and I got another - a "pro slicer" with it. They used to use the saw to trim glass for jewelry and used water + sawzit to cool it. Originally this type of saw came with gravity feed and vise like so:  But those parts are missing on my saw. I am trying to figure out if I should make any modifications to use it for trimming of slabs of agates, jaspers and obsidians and potentially slabbing some smaller rocks like the one in the picture. Specifically I have these questions: - can I keep using water + Sawzit for cooling or do I need to switch to oil (which and why - I am noob in saws so trying to learn)?
- the blade seems ok for trimming (and it creates a very smooth surface) but I am not sure if maybe I should get a coarser wider blade for slabbing? I tried to free hand slab the piece of rock you see it the picture and I stopped as it felt like it's super easy to bend the blade and I was worried I might break it.. What would potentially be a good blade for slabbing?
- any ideas on if and where I might be able to get the gravity feed system for it or how to make one myself? I tried calling Highland Park and they don't have the old parts but they are actually working on making them! Should become available at some point next year (in case anybody else is interested) ..so worst case scenario I just wait.
- the "guide on stick" part (I have no idea how that's called properly) that you can see in the picture of my saw has a lot of rust on it and I am wondering if there is something I can do to prevent it from rusting further... should I sand down the rust and paint it with something
 ?
Any tips are welcome. I cannot wait to start working through all the slabs and rocks I have
Tereza.
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 7, 2019 19:30:18 GMT -5
I have the Genie trim saw attachment. I use water and cool-lube/lube kool in a greater concentration than I use with the grinding wheels. I like to use a .032 MK303 or equivalent. I mark a line around the rock and try to cut straight. I sometimes rotate the rock to get a straight cut. I had a saw similar to yours with a gravity feed and I got rid of it. The only issue with hand feeding is that it wears out blades. The smaller kerf saves material so I don't mind buying blades.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 7, 2019 21:40:25 GMT -5
Hi folks, I recently bought used Highland Park 10TSB 10" trim/slab saw and have some questions I was hoping somebody here could have answers for This is the saw (I am sorry i don't know how to make the pictures smaller here): It has a thin diamond blade installed and I got another - a "pro slicer" with it. They used to use the saw to trim glass for jewelry and used water + sawzit to cool it. Originally this type of saw came with gravity feed and vise like so: But those parts are missing on my saw. I am trying to figure out if I should make any modifications to use it for trimming of slabs of agates, jaspers and obsidians and potentially slabbing some smaller rocks like the one in the picture. Specifically I have these questions: - can I keep using water + Sawzit for cooling or do I need to switch to oil (which and why - I am noob in saws so trying to learn)?
- the blade seems ok for trimming (and it creates a very smooth surface) but I am not sure if maybe I should get a coarser wider blade for slabbing? I tried to free hand slab the piece of rock you see it the picture and I stopped as it felt like it's super easy to bend the blade and I was worried I might break it.. What would potentially be a good blade for slabbing?
- any ideas on if and where I might be able to get the gravity feed system for it or how to make one myself? I tried calling Highland Park and they don't have the old parts but they are actually working on making them! Should become available at some point next year (in case anybody else is interested) ..so worst case scenario I just wait.
- the "guide on stick" part (I have no idea how that's called properly) that you can see in the picture of my saw has a lot of rust on it and I am wondering if there is something I can do to prevent it from rusting further... should I sand down the rust and paint it with something ?
Any tips are welcome. I cannot wait to start working through all the slabs and rocks I have
Tereza.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 7, 2019 21:53:17 GMT -5
well that was wasted type. must have brass rod under vise. holds plane of stone sq. to blade. they used a welding brass rod. front of vise their is a small hole. back of vise break sharp corner in rod. about a 1/2 in. put in back first. then the front next too the splash pan edge. small hole.
I have the save unit in ( 1955 E-10 bench unit. )
Jack Cole Rough Lapidary
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Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2019 9:40:23 GMT -5
The "guide on a stick" as you call it is a fence. It should help you cut consistently similar slabs when adjusted to the thickness desired. Cutting by hand is feasible, but patience is a virtue. Crowding the saw and not keeping the trajectory on a straight course will bind the blade, cause overheating, and shorten the life of the blade as well as produce crappy slabs. I'd recommend practicing with small rocks and work your way up as you gain confidence. Me, I'd use oil (you don't have to drain it daily, no rust, better cooling, and if softens your hands, (but its messy if you overfill the tank and don't have an appropriate work area). Others will argue for water so follow your own instincts. You can improvise a bit of an aid to slabbing by gluing your stone on a 2x2 or 2x3 block just so the lowest edge does not protrude below the block. Then you can slide the block on the saws table as you address the blade and this will prevent wobble and help maintain that straight trajectory. Use wood glue, glue to a clean flat surface of the rock, and let it cure overnight before trusting the glue. You definitely will need a vice to adapt to a gravity feed but after you use the saw awhile you'll know whether you want to enhance this saw or jump to another slab saw. Good luck.
BTW sanding will not hurt the fence and once cleaned up it won't rust unless you use water. A WD-40 spray down will be useful for blade and table if you do use water in my opinion.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2019 9:45:33 GMT -5
Sorry for the addon but I just noticed your saw is positioned in a wooden box with absorbent "clay". That is obviously to soak up/control spray from the saw and would be good to retain whether oil or water is used. I use "Oildry" an oil absorbent compound similar to kitty litter, but it keeps my shop floor oil free and hence my spouse happy that oil stays in the shop area.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2019 17:37:01 GMT -5
Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole Wow, the brass rod to raise the free end of the vice is a new one for me. I do see the small hole at the rear of the saw table which you say one end is inserted into, but bending it up behind the vice's rear edge doesn't seem to insure that it will stay straight. I presume the purpose is to reduce friction between the vice bottom and the saw table. Can you elaborate a bit more?
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 10, 2019 2:03:53 GMT -5
Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole Wow, the brass rod to raise the free end of the vice is a new one for me. I do see the small hole at the rear of the saw table which you say one end is inserted into, but bending it up behind the vice's rear edge doesn't seem to insure that it will stay straight. I presume the purpose is to reduce friction between the vice bottom and the saw table. Can you elaborate a bit more? The rod is Brazing rod. Needs to have a sharp 90 degree bend with a tail piece (about 2'' is fine. ) into the coolant tank. About a 1/8 inch well be in small hole next to the splash shield. Fit the end with the bend first then trim the other end. this should lay flat too the bed of the trim saw. Some of the photo i see the grove of the old rod that was in place. All Highland-Park cab units of this model with E-10 type trim saw had the BRASS ROD. This keeps the vise & the blade cut SQ. to plane of cut. Jack Cole |
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Post by Peruano on Nov 10, 2019 7:17:08 GMT -5
thanks, I'll work on something like that. However I'll admit I rarely use that saw and then its always been hand held cuts. There are times when the vice would be useful.
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Post by Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole on Nov 10, 2019 13:08:22 GMT -5
The vise is best used with large stone. no more then 1/3 the diameter of the blade. trimming slabs should be done on deck of slab saw.
The vise is to save on fingers ware / and bent blades! School of HARD KNOCKS. First rock breaking, rolling on finger tip, Or just cut it up.
Vise is to hold rock SQ. to the blades line of cut.
Jack Cole
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grantg
off to a rocking start
Member since September 2022
Posts: 2
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Post by grantg on Sept 5, 2022 14:20:20 GMT -5
Hi folks, I recently bought used Highland Park 10TSB 10" trim/slab saw and have some questions I was hoping somebody here could have answers for This is the saw (I am sorry i don't know how to make the pictures smaller here): ... Originally this type of saw came with gravity feed and vise like so: But those parts are missing on my saw. ... Hi Tereza, I'm the one who sold you the saw on CL ... and several years later I found the vise for it! If you still have the saw, you are welcome to pick up the vise for free (in Mountain View). Or let who ever has the saw contact me. cheers, grant |
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rockbrain
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2022
Posts: 3,172
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Post by rockbrain on Sept 6, 2022 18:03:44 GMT -5
That's just too cool if this saw and the original parts get reunited. tereza must have bought it from the person that grantg sold it to. Grantg welcome to the forum! I'm curious how you found this post since you're weren't a member. I got all excited about equipment being reunited, now I see the OP hasn't posted for a couple years. |
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grantg
off to a rocking start
Member since September 2022
Posts: 2
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Post by grantg on Sept 10, 2022 12:58:21 GMT -5
That's just too cool if this saw and the original parts get reunited. tereza must have bought it from the person that grantg sold it to. Grantg welcome to the forum! I'm curious how you found this post since you're weren't a member. I got all excited about equipment being reunited, now I see the OP hasn't posted for a couple years. Hi Rockbrain! That's exactly how I feel about it too! I could have easily chucked this part into a metal recycling bin but that thought just makes me sad. Tereza Cihelkova bought it from me. I still have the emails in response to my CL posting (date: Nov 1, 2019, 1:11 PM). I found this post via Google search for "Tereza Highland Park 10TSB" - not a lot of activity on the internet relating to 10inch slabbing saws. I was hoping she would get an email notification that someone responded to her post... but that appears to not be the case: I didn't get a notice that you had replied to my email.  If I can't reach her, then anyone else who wants it should please email me (I'm easy to find in Mountain View CA). cheers, grant |
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alaskaman
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2023
Posts: 2
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Post by alaskaman on Aug 5, 2023 17:03:15 GMT -5
i have the same saw 10 tsb and i could use the parts if u still have them e mail alaskaman1000@hotmail.com im in riverside ca t
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This is the saw (I am sorry i don't know how to make the pictures smaller here):
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