USMC15
Cave Dweller 
I feel like I just came out of the tumbler ...
Member since March 2021
Posts: 273
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Post by USMC15 on Mar 25, 2021 18:33:29 GMT -5
Okay, I have been doing research on how to stabilize rocks. I found this method that museums use by soaking the sample in butvar B98 and acetone in a closed container for about a week shaking the container or turning the sample periodically. This method will strongly stabilize the rock while preserving the color. A pound of butvar B98 is approximately $30 a pound and acetone is about $10.
Does anyone know of a cheaper way to perform this task with similar results. The forum was mentioned in an article I read about the matter, but I do not really know how old the article is. Also, it was suggested to me to ask around, and there is no better place than here.
Ssuggestions, thoughts, comments?
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callmerob
starting to spend too much on rocks
I really like a dirt road
Member since September 2019
Posts: 146
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Post by callmerob on Mar 25, 2021 23:47:36 GMT -5
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USMC15
Cave Dweller
I feel like I just came out of the tumbler ...
Member since March 2021
Posts: 273
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Post by USMC15 on Mar 25, 2021 23:59:07 GMT -5
I just watched the epoxy 330 method on YT. The only problem I see with that is I read that it can turn yellow, but this method seems to be the best way for a 4 or 5 pound rock to stabilize. The butvar B98 method is unclear because there are no clear instructions on it, but I think it is similar to this epoxy method, just costs more. Super Glue will not work because it will not get to the center of the rock. It is more of a surface fix. I am trying to do a complete stone before cutting it into slabs. |
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callmerob
starting to spend too much on rocks
I really like a dirt road
Member since September 2019
Posts: 146
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Post by callmerob on Mar 26, 2021 0:37:23 GMT -5
The water-thin super glue is used by those who make ink pens out of exotic hardwoods to soak into the wood and "plasticize" it. It is very thin, even saturating cross-grain (as opposed to end-grain) very dense hardwoods. It acts like it's as thin as water or alcohol. It finds cracks in rocks. Yes, rock is not porous (except my chalky turquoise), but this thin super glue chases cracks quickly and dries clear. I like it as cheap insurance against breakage. Maybe CA could be thinned even further with either alcohol or acetone? I don't know about chemical compatibility, but that might be worth a shot. I've earlier worked with turquoise and soft serpentine. Lately tried some Yosemite granite and hard Goldfield jasper with lots of fractures. Good luck slabbing!  |
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Post by stardiamond on Mar 26, 2021 2:09:27 GMT -5
I understand the point of stabilizing small stones like turquoise and opals. I may buy material that is described as stabilized. I don't stabilize material I work on. When I sell a cabochon, I want to be able to say its natural. I slab and work around fractures. When I buy a slab, I inspect the picture for fractures or ask the seller. When most of the fractures are known, the yield from the piece can be determined and that effects how much I will pay for it. A person can expect fractures from Morgan Hill and any brecciated material.
I bought some Mescalero and Blue Dream rough and there were a lot of fractures. I decided I am better off buying slabs because I have a better idea of what I am getting. A slab could be stabilized before trimming preforms but I don't think it is possible to get the stabilizer to penetrate a large piece of rough.
When I slab a material that tends to have fractures, I use a marker to identify them so when I am ready to design I know the areas to avoid. Some porcelain jaspers have fractures that I can't see and either recut or give up on a preform.
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 26, 2021 9:06:16 GMT -5
If I find really striking material that is not workable as is I might cab it as a doublet with a quartz cap, but I don't use hot stuff or epoxy to save a cab or bead with cracks and porosity.
Spheres and display specimens is another story.
Stabilizing spheres as you go is industry standard, and fossil people go through buckets of the stuff that holds fossils together.
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USMC15
Cave Dweller
I feel like I just came out of the tumbler ...
Member since March 2021
Posts: 273
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Post by USMC15 on Mar 26, 2021 9:08:29 GMT -5
From what I have seen Purple Cow seems to fall apart around the edges at the start, leaving a small slab to work with. The Purple Cow that I recently purchased and had jasoninsd cut for me had an incredible look to it but the edges fell apart. I looked at images online and there were similar fractures on all the rocks. The center seemed intact because we got a few good pieces, just small. Here is an example of what I am talking about:  If you look around the edges there are many fractures. I don't know if this person stabilized the stone prior to cutting or just got lucky. The stone I purchased didn't fair so well. I think that the Purple Cow has great character and potential that the extra work of to stabilize the rock prior to cutting is worth it. I'm going to try the epoxy 330 and acetone method I will record and post everything I do with pictures for others to learn. I just have to get the materials and stone first. |
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USMC15
Cave Dweller
I feel like I just came out of the tumbler ...
Member since March 2021
Posts: 273
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Post by USMC15 on Mar 26, 2021 9:10:18 GMT -5
Oh! That is not a picture of my stone, however, I wish it were.
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USMC15
Cave Dweller
I feel like I just came out of the tumbler ...
Member since March 2021
Posts: 273
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Post by USMC15 on Apr 3, 2021 20:00:55 GMT -5
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Apr 4, 2021 11:55:55 GMT -5
I use CA. Harbor Freight sells 10 tubes for a couple bucks. I have 100's of small plastic bottles that hold a stone which is flooded with CA. I let it set for 24 to 48 hours then dump it out and let the stone dry. CA grinds well and polishes great. I just make sure to be honest if I sell anything stabilized. I have been thinking of getting a vacuum pump and a bell jar to speed up the process, but I stabilize such a small amount of material it would never pay for itself.
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aksockeye
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2017
Posts: 14 
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Post by aksockeye on Apr 12, 2021 0:16:20 GMT -5
There are other members that use HXTAL. It is museum grade thin epoxy that will not yellow.
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Apr 17, 2021 11:24:48 GMT -5
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 17, 2021 14:57:53 GMT -5
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