|
Post by Peruano on Nov 10, 2022 10:30:52 GMT -5
Jasper is silicon dioxide made opaque by contaminants. Rhyolites are extrusive volcanic rocks with lots of silica (thats what makes them polish, and clearly those with higher silica will take a better polish). In the vernacular of the layman jaspers have cache and rhyolites sound mundane. Hence many pretty rhyolites get given the name of jasper and the line between them is confused to the rockhound and purchaser. Enjoy the beach, collect the pretty rocks and in the end your enjoyment will not be affected by the distinction.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 9, 2022 7:05:39 GMT -5
Found a 5 lb. block of this labeled Dynasty Jasper. It came from a bunch of estate rocks so . . . . Looks like a rhyolitic material to me, but should be promising for polish.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2022 15:11:45 GMT -5
My wife and I volunteer with the Assistance League of Albuquerque, but its a national organization with chapters all over the USA. I work in the thrift shop which is one of the best such stores in the city (totally volunteer and thus extremely motivated personnel). Since we sell donations at somewhat less than 10c on the dollar, we are saving our clients a bundle and those savings are going back into their buying power for other things, we are keeping stuff out of the landfill, clothing those in need, using the cash generated to distribute school uniforms, shoes, dental kits and books to Title 1 schools in the broad area. I believe we will distribute shoes to some 15 schools this year (each with 400 to 600 students). You can't believe how excited some elementary kids are to receive a new pair of shoes. We have other activities like chemo hats for our local hospital patients, receiving blankets for premies, and more than 1000 stuffed bears for cops and medical emergency personnel to pass out to kids in crisis situations. In short there's lots to do in organizations that are trying to make a difference. Like Gary, I also work in the electronics / domestic products fixit desk. We test everything electrical that we sell, and repair those things that warrant a second chance if not initially serviceable. Standing at my dest as the Thursday recetionist, I meet the broadest array of people possible, and gain wonderful perspective of life and mankind in general.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2022 14:51:54 GMT -5
Sometimes those quartz filler rocks polish up so elegantly that they become a benefit in themselves and true keepers. I grew up in Central Illinois where black dirt is king and you had to go to an old glacial moraine to find good rocks. In New Mexico, we have to look hard to find dirt of just about any color other than tan.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2022 6:56:06 GMT -5
Think how much fun it would be to poke through the gravel pit that this material came from. Often they have large piles of material sorted by size that are productive. Permission for access required and hopefully on a pile not being actively worked at the time. You have a good eye for interesting rocks.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 4, 2022 20:23:58 GMT -5
The choice is one of learning to use whichever machine you have. I have several of the small gyrocs, a raytech vibe 5 and an old minisonic. All are totally useful machines, even tho occasionally looked down upon by folks. They all process a lot of rocks in typical loas and can accommodate moderately sized stones in a mixed load. Vibes are like potato chips, one is not enough once you start. The raytech is the best value on the market in my view.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 4, 2022 20:03:43 GMT -5
You use what you have. A dremel with a diamond bit will remove lots of the opaque oxidized material and a finer one will clean grooves. I've even tried cutting leather disks that can be mounted on a dremel to carry various grits using Vaseline as a carrier. As pointed out pea gravel should work in almost any vibe. The object is to create some progress and occasionally something of beauty in your view.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 3, 2022 9:46:44 GMT -5
The threads do not look clean in your photos. This probably means they are not engaged deep enough by the drive rod (as you have already deduced). If this was my machine I would clean the threads, and take tiny bit off of the faces of the two pieces so that the threads of the respective halves better gripped the drive rod. It might not take much and no harm done if this does not solve your problem. I have an old covington saw that just a bit of increased pressure to bring the two halves together is enough to make it work instead of slipping. You may need space between the halves to allow them to tighten just a bit more. JMHO.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Nov 1, 2022 7:08:08 GMT -5
They are chalcedony nodules and because of their complex surfaces, quite difficult to polish. I have had best luck by doing some preliminary grinding on a rough wheel of a cab machine, and then running them in a vibratory machine with an assortment of sizes, but most importantly using small garnets. The chalcedony is hard and so too is the garnet. The small size of the garnet gets into the grooves and works out the discoloration (not all of which is your grit, but probably includes dirt, and oxidation put there by thousands of years of exposure). Garnet sand can occasionally be found on ant mounds, but usually in thin layers so it must be cleaned before use. I'll try to find a couple of photos of my efforts, but let me say trying to tumble this material is a bit like buying junk bonds, most of them won't produce, but rarely one will be a winner. The other option is to use a dremel and tiny diamond bits, or other improvised polishing aids. Vaseline on a hardwood toothpick carrying various sizes of grit has worked for small persistent spots that needed to be treated by hand. As you can see, it hard to get all discoloration out of the material. Here is the garnet, about the size of BBs. Here are two shots of one of my most successful attempts. This is a close approximation of what you would do if you were trying to polish fire agate, but clearly the rewards are more modest.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 24, 2022 9:19:52 GMT -5
Are you asking if you need to place a shield over/around the expando wheel. If so yes, to contain water spray, etc. just as on a typical grinding/sanding wheel. Perhaps I did not understand you question. As to belts, I have had great success with 3M diamond belts but I only use the 3000, and up to 50,000 grits. For all lesser grits on the 8" expando wheel, I use silicon carbide or aluminum oxide belts. Perhaps that is why my 3m diamond belts last longer . . . I am only using them for finer polishing steps. The Microfinishing belts from Kingsley North are great and come up to 1200. Using an expando wheel give you so much flexibility especially if shop space is limited. Changing the belts is the key to success. The selection from Kingley North is good but you can find the same materials elsewhere. Good luck with your new setups.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 20, 2022 10:00:15 GMT -5
Some of the Lake Superior (northern rock shops in general) have identification aids and synopses of the kinds of rocks you are likely to find in your region. In my experience after you pickup somewhere around a thousand rocks and examine them carefully, you develop the ability to tell an agate, from a "rock". It comes down to texture and pattern as much as to region or The hunt is part of the fun and a beautiful rock at the end of the hunt is even better. Welcome.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 19, 2022 6:12:57 GMT -5
It probably doesn't matter as long as the rest of the material is moving through the bowl. I'd guess its something related to the way the oscillation is produced and the small stuff being of the right size, mass and shape to make it want to stay in one position relative to the bowls overall structure. I have a TV5 and I've had media that are too small always stay on the bottom despite good movement in all the other rocks in the bowl. Again without a good explanation. Carry on and keep us informed as convenient.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 15, 2022 11:38:31 GMT -5
In most instances the proper coolant level can be assessed by looking at the trail of coolant thrown out in front of the blade. The blade is rotating toward the front of the saw and flings coolant visible on the saw table. If the trail of coolant is out in front of the blade but not thrown so far that it is over the front edge of the saw table or on the front shield, the level is probably adequate and not excessive. If there is not trail in front of the blade you are lower than necessary; if its wildly flung out in front you have too much. I adjust the coolant on my trim saw by pouring it slowing at the blade slot while the blade is running. With some compensation for coolant going directly on the blade this works for me. No dip stick necessary. Try if this seems relevant to your situation.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 15, 2022 11:28:59 GMT -5
Vibes are fun because the action is fast. You can have successes or failures, fast! The most important thing is movement which you can control with the mass and size of the rocks you are processing and the amount of water that you add. As for the water don't add too much or you end up with rock soup and all of the spices in the bottom. You are on the right track. Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 13, 2022 7:32:50 GMT -5
Expandos are great. The soft surface allows more co tact with stone. Lookimg great. Now for that beer.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Oct 12, 2022 19:12:40 GMT -5
Dance with the lady that you came with --' which is to say cut with the tile until you get a lapidary blade for it or move to lapidary saw without capabilities. Welcome E. You are on a wonderful road.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Sept 6, 2022 6:51:01 GMT -5
You need a rock book. Several of the grainy rocks you have look like quartzite, and at least one other was granite. Several rock shops in the great lakes area have id guides on line for aid in identifications of stuff carried around by glaciers. I'd be careful of wholesale ids based on photos; you are best off if you can hold it, feel its texture, ponder its cleavage possibilities, color, crystalization, hardness, and yes {overall impression, which is what identifications from photos are in actuality. Good luck in finding sources of guidance in books and on the web. We all have to go through the process in order to bring home the good stuff and talk to our neighbors about what they bring to your door.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Sept 6, 2022 6:36:43 GMT -5
It will be noisy until you develop some slurry to cushion and slow movement. I'd add a big squirt of dawn dish liquid soap and within 30 minutes you will see it quiet and move much more tolerably. The soap helps carry the grit up with the rock movements as well. It is also much quieter with the lid installed.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Aug 27, 2022 16:17:14 GMT -5
Eventually you will decide that some are better than others ( plain vs ornate; small bail vs larger one). Some small are difficult to use with pre-made chains. Folks in my circle of friends have more silver than gold, surprise! I use these all the time,. . . With e6000 adhesive.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Aug 27, 2022 16:09:37 GMT -5
Is the feed dog engaging? Can you clamp it to make it engage securely? Show us a picture. Try to see if vice will advance without a rock Just running the saw for a couple of minutes. The blade on the raytech runs in a different direction than other saws. Could you be running it backwards? Measure the vice position before and after a trial run.
|
|