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Post by Peruano on Aug 27, 2022 6:57:53 GMT -5
Grits can scratch even the super hard surfaced optical materials, so care in cleaning is important. In my scheme, rinse them under running water with a bit of dish soap before ever rubbing them with cloth. I think the real problem is grit from tumbling but rock dust from cabbing might be a source too. Let's just say I've scratched a few sets of glasses. My solution is to go to cheap bifocal readers (lenses with plain optics above and a window of the appropriate reader magnification below). I believe the last ones I bought were through Walmart and in the range of 3 pair for $21. I try to wear them when I'm in the shop or the oldest most disposable of my actual prescription glasses.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 22, 2022 16:20:01 GMT -5
I always admire your creativity, but . . I'm not so sure that I like the overhang. The idea that a hand could get drug into that cavity and or cut on the metal edges would make me want to eliminate it. Rocks do get caught and go skating and reflexes being what they are folks occasionally let their hand reach into places they should n't or do I misinterpret your build?
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Post by Peruano on Aug 19, 2022 6:32:27 GMT -5
I'm sorry for your bad experience. I too have been a major proponent of the MK225 and its look alike pals. I just checked and it has been almost exactly 10 years since I installed a "used" MK225 on my 12" slab saw. It's still cutting after 100's, and probably thousands of cuts. Let's hope that you may have gotten a bad batch or that the other branding labels will not share a similar problem. In my zeal for the 225, I bought a 10" version about 5 years ago which has been hoarded unused in the interim. Maybe it will be like fine wine, when I drag it out for service. I hope the blades turn out to be usable for you.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 18, 2022 9:33:27 GMT -5
I found BC and Alberta to be a virtual hot bed of rock hound and lapidary resources. How far from the Frazier River can you be? Lets find a way to get rocks across the border inexpensively and we can make some trades. Welcome.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 18, 2022 9:22:27 GMT -5
Don't sell yourself or your time short. What's the minimum you would expect as an hourly rate? Now double that at least. Since no price was specified they have the option of negociating your price down or up, but . . . start with what you would really like to charge and slide from their to keep everyone feel that they were treated fairly. Never apologize or underestimate your art!!!
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Post by Peruano on Aug 18, 2022 9:10:20 GMT -5
I had a chance to try the two new offerings from Kingsley-North in a friend's shop recently and I thought it appropriate to pass on some positive observations. 1. Agglomerate silicon carbide belts - mfrd in Germany and about double normal sic belts (but still only $4.70), these belts have the feel of a heavier coating of silicon carbide grit. Let me say first off, they are aggressive. They come in grits from 80 to 1200, but my sense was that they were aggressive enough to use a higher grit number in place of what you would use normally. Using a 600 felt more like a 200 ish performance. The surface texture is rough enough that they do require a bit of caution as to skin contact with a turning belt. I can easily see situations where they would be preferable to a standard belt and even a diamond wheel. I do plan to order some for my dual expando machine just to see how long they last and perform after some prolonged use.
2. 8" diamond wheel (2" wide). So more wheel width than your standard 1.5" wide wheel and a reasonable price $108 for either the 80 or 220 grit. Although I had only limited time on this wheel, being in the market for a coarse diamond wheel, I'm going to order one of these. The diamond wraps around the side of the wheel, but its impossible to tell if its nearly that thick on the contact surface of the wheel. I had trouble finding these products on their catalog site, but there is a full page ad in Rock and Gem magazine. Buyer beware; I don't work as a shill for KN but thought they products worthy of mention.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 17, 2022 13:27:56 GMT -5
Thin agate slabs can double as Christmas ornaments which easily get transferred to windows as sun catchers for the other 11 months. When I have a suitable cobble with surface texture, I cut a flat bottom and a shallow vertical slot in the top as a holder for business cards on the desk or recipe cards on the counter while cooking.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 14, 2022 16:55:59 GMT -5
If its soft, serpentine is a possibility . . . just on tone and color.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 13, 2022 6:28:55 GMT -5
Not all shells are soft, but most are. I don't know about cohog shells. I have tumbled (vibed only) fragments of large conchs or whelks successfully. They generate a slurry quickly and need to be monitored to insure that the slurry does not thicken up to inhibit movement. Zam works really well in accomplishing a quick final polish. A hasty search found this photo.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 2, 2022 16:06:32 GMT -5
Gosh, can we have some more details? Nelson saws are unique and sturdy. show us what you've got.
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Post by Peruano on Aug 2, 2022 16:05:14 GMT -5
Welcome. I visited Nova Scotia with emphasis on its shorelines, for a month or so when I was just beginning to pay particular attention to rocks. Hence rocks of interest were everywhere with the distinction between granite and agate nebulous especially if it was wet and pretty colors were present. Hence I say, what a wonderful place to start out with rocks. As your knowledge and collecting chops increase your collecting sites will both increase and decrease. In the meantime enjoy the ride and realize that " the price is right and I'm here" and "they don't cost much to store until I want to pass them on or let them reassimilate into the flower beds". If golf is an excuse to take a walk in the out of doors, rock collecting is an even better one to pay attention to what's afoot and the beauty of your locale. Enjoy and tell us about it.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 27, 2022 15:53:21 GMT -5
I have not looked at all of your photos, but: 1. You don't want to saw your vice. Your stones should be mounted so that the cut is beyond the reach of the wood (or metal) of the vice. In fact when slabbing the cut is usually started a long way from the edge of the vice and only gradually moves closer as the stone is sliced. 2. Another issue is to make sure that if you are making a long cut (i.e. one that will take your stone beyond the center of the blade (where the nut and flange washer that hold the blade on the arbor) are located. .. . your stone must be high enough to clear the flange washer. Sometimes when stones project below the vice level, they can bind on the unusable middle are of the blade. My advice is to learn to use the saw by cutting smaller material. You may be able to cut big stuff with this saw but it should be with an experienced operator (i.e. you with experience). You will get there but try to go with small steps and do not harm in the process.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 26, 2022 17:58:31 GMT -5
I see a very worn rock. However I see nothing to indicate that is organic in origin. Its spongey in one zone but nothing that would indicate the regular pattern that might reflect the hand of mother nature living beasties. Why not a big piece of chalcedony. Three good guesses make a consensus not a secure ID. Not trying to be contrary, just balancing the discussion.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 22, 2022 19:50:19 GMT -5
If the arbor size works, I'd try to et the mk 225 hot dog blade. I and others have had great success and longevity from them. The home depot price is 50ish so not out of line.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 22, 2022 19:47:08 GMT -5
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Post by Peruano on Jul 21, 2022 6:56:13 GMT -5
You don't want it next to the dining room table, but in the garage as long as you are not too fastidious there. A little bit of ambient dust usually keeps things from getting oily, but what quantity can be tolerated varies with the user.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 19, 2022 18:24:27 GMT -5
Congrats on a slab saw acquisition. Homemade is sometimes best. I'd go for the middle of the road on the first saw blade. The 303 is definitely to tougher blade than the 301. And its best to learn your vice characteristics and clamping before you go for the best blade. My fav is a an MK 225 which is a porcelein blade but maybe not available. Supposedly MK 205 Agate Kutter is comparable but it looks like its not available above 14". Note that you can use a smaller blade like a 14 in your saw, but you will just have to raise the oil level (and tolerate a little less cutting reach). Pay attention to your arbor size. Not all blades will fit on a large arbor, and you having a homemade version may have a super fortified arbor shaft. Don't be afraid of the segmented design of the larger blades. I think its meant to carry more oil to the cutting surface and an advantage. Notice it usually is not available in smaller sizes except some tile and procelein blades where heat is expected. Shop diligently for your blade and don't be afraid to ask questions, but do be prepared to filter the answers you get. Blades are like motor oil, baseball teams, and religions. Everyone has the only right answer. Welcome and good luck on firing up the saw. BTW you can do a trial run with water just to see how everything is working.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 18, 2022 11:54:40 GMT -5
Welcome gravel girl. Your message prompted me to go to my bookshelf for a book I discovered on my last visit to Ill (where I still have family roots). Its entitled Geology underfoot in Illinois. By Raymond Wiggers. It has innumerable chapters on various geographic features and regions, discusses the history of glaciation, and would be a great resource for probing moraines and old river beds that would be primary foci for glacial diversity in rocks. Maybe you know it but if not it would be worth a search on Thriftbooks or Adlibris. There are wonderful things in the midwest, but the problem is often that they are covered with DIRT.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 18, 2022 11:48:18 GMT -5
I too contemplated how to make something, like you have, work in a lapidary context. It seems that it would be possible to incorporate one wheel and or a flat polishing disk on the shaft that you have. What might be more problematic is configuring a longer shaft (bearings to support midway and or at the far end, etc.). Your considerations of water and electrical risks are important as well. I'm sure someone will have stronger opinions and more sophisticated guidance for you. Please keep us informed. BTW cab machines by themselves are not that expensive (used), its only when you have to buy/replace wheels (especially if you use diamond) that the real expense grows. The minimal configuration would be a two wheel arbor, with one or two expando wheels that could give considerable flexibility with sic or diamond belts. I have plenty of silicon carbide wheels to give away, but the shipping and their suitability in a modern context are major considerations.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 18, 2022 6:26:12 GMT -5
Drilling a hole or two in the shroud will let you put wheels wherever you decide. There is plenty of room in the middle as Mossyrock has pointed out. Great machine. Bubblers would not be my choice.
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