|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 29, 2018 15:26:30 GMT -5
Excellent, Thanks Lynn and John. The standard tile saw blade arbor seems to be 5/8" with a knock-out on a lot of them to 7/8". So I will make it as wide as I have room for. I found my bushings on Amazon, can cut them to exact length. Thanks for the reassurance about the weight difference. Off to go shop for blades now! Will post pictures.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 29, 2018 10:39:49 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 29, 2018 10:01:26 GMT -5
Thanks Les inbtb! #5 is a very important one!
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 28, 2018 17:31:56 GMT -5
Hi all!
I have a vintage Lortone arbor with (newish) 1/3hp 1750 rpm engine that I purchased at Q last year and just got set up. Only took me 11 months to bolt it to a base and rig up the water supply, haha. It currently has two 8" expando wheels on it, but I would like to replace one expando with a super grinder. It has a 3/4" shaft.
1. How wide do you cabbers find is optimal for your supergrinder? Given no weight or cost constraints, how wide is necessary for awesomeness?
2. What is the purpose of the spacers between the blades?
3. Are continuous rim blades less aggressive than the "turbo" blades?
4. With 7" blades on one side, and the expando wheel on the other, is balance a problem? Is it a deal breaker of a problem? Tommy added a few heavy washers on one side of his arbor to offset the supergrinder . . . do I need to plan on doing that? There isn't room! The shaft ends at the nut. Should I just give up and look into a tile saw and tuck blade?
5. What are the red plastic doohickey rings called that come with cabbing wheels, that allow a wheel with a 1" hole to be used on a smaller arbor? I have one that will convert my arbor from 3/4" to 1", but I would much rather find one that will convert it to 7/8" so I can use cheaper blades. But I don't know what they're called. The 1" arbor blades are 17.99 each and Harbor Freight seems to be the only source I can find! 10 of those suckers would be expensive. Found bushings 3/4" to 7/8" on Amazon, thanks to Les for the search term. Now I can get the cheaper blades.
See post on page 2 for updates and links to where to buy stuff.
Thanks for any help! Susan
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 28, 2018 15:02:45 GMT -5
Kewl Tommy, glad you're back in business!
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 28, 2018 12:45:41 GMT -5
Tommy I can do the photoshop work if you send me the RTF graphic and a quick description of what you want (Scribble a sketch and take a picture). I still have CS6 on the non-subscription model so I'm in the same boat as you. Don't do enough on it to justify the subscription. Sorry about your harddrive, that is THE WORST.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 21:14:59 GMT -5
Yeah. Probably wouldn't work too easily. Thanks. I like the design though. Good for lost wax casting or something.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 20:17:32 GMT -5
I'm back!!!! Hi NRG! Hi aDave! I bought a house about a year ago so I've been pretty absorbed in moving and fixing it up and relandscaping it (myself, twice - ugh). But this past week I was off work so I cranked up my saw, filled her up with oil, and put together the expando arbor I got at Q last year. Back in bizness!!!
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 20:15:41 GMT -5
I bet there are a bunch of stories about it floating around. I don't speak Spanish either. Now that I think about it, I think it was @christopher1234 who told me that name. Or the dealer he introduced me to. Maybe Christopher knows more about it.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 18:16:25 GMT -5
Hi All! I'll be in Q on January 1 and 2 (DG) and Wed through Fri of Pow wow (I think it's the 16th through 18th). Staying at Motel6 in Blythe.
I would love a Tshirt or sweatshirt too! "I went to Quartzsite and all I got were these stupid rocks" springs to mind.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 17:58:46 GMT -5
An interesting tidbit I learned at the opal show a couple years ago: Cantera is a modification of the spanish Conterra (or maybe Con Terra), which means, "with stone". Or, maybe the dealer was just shining me on, who knows.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 17:53:46 GMT -5
Tagging onto this question (Hi, I'm back!)
I've never really understood this either. People at my old rock club seem to swear by using the 100 or 220 grit hard wheel to shape (depending on the material), and then the same grit of soft wheel. They can never really articulate why though.
Is it to get the flats out? Does a soft wheel remove scratches differently? It seems like the soft wheel's ability to conform itself to the general shape of the stone would be good for removing flats and high spots, but when I test it, you have to apply a huge amount of pressure on the stone to deform those wheels (cabking soft wheels, and expandos is what I have used) at all. Like way too much pressure.
So I'm confused as well.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 17:18:23 GMT -5
I wonder if it would be hard to dissolve/cut/grind out the cheapie beads and substitute nicer material. I like the design.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 17:03:22 GMT -5
I feel your pain. I read a post once about coloring all over the surface of your cab, and then grinding it off, twice, at each grit, to get a good shine. The author of the post used sharpie so I did too. On a lace agate. You wouldn't believe how deeply that sharpie wicked into the stone. Totally ruined it. Now I use pencil!!!
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 16:59:15 GMT -5
Looooove those - especially the first one.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Nov 27, 2018 16:56:37 GMT -5
Beautiful cab of top quality bone! This is the perfect example of why I love bone so much!
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 16, 2018 18:17:27 GMT -5
Hi Pat. Sorry I haven't tried the Ameritool blades - I used BD blades and they worked fine.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Sept 24, 2018 8:55:41 GMT -5
Hi! It worked poorly. Popped right out.
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Sept 10, 2018 22:07:15 GMT -5
Excellent Tommy! Looking forward to your results!
|
|
|
Post by Bluesky78987 on Apr 23, 2018 20:15:56 GMT -5
. . . ya know any cheap source? Yeah, the brown paper bags are free at the grocery store. : ) Not here they're not. 10 cents! TheRock, I see you have discovered some of the design flaws with the BD-10. It turns out you can get a fair amount of crud on the motor housing without adversely affecting it though. Some sort of crud-deflector might be something you could design though. At our rock club they have the following low tech filtering method. 1. 10" trim saw (like the BD10, but no vice). On top of the table, up by the hinge to the deflector, "clean" oil enters the system through fish tank tubing or brass tubing (can't remember) with a little hand screw valve on it. Source of oil to be described at the end. 2. The oil drips down the space between the blade and the table and enters the tank, getting on the blade at the same time. 3. The bottom of the tank contains a drain with a 1/4" (or something) line to The Settling Bucket. This is just a steel bucket - an old paint bucket or something. I don't know where on the tank this drain line is situated. I bet it is on the side about an inch up though, not on the bottom. But, you never know. 4. The Settling Bucket has an overflow line drilled in it about 3/4 of the way up. I think. I haven't looked at it lately. 5. The overflow line leads to the Clean Oil Bucket. There is a submersible pump in the bottom of the clean oil bucket, pushing "clean" oil back up to the saw. It turns out most of the crud settles out in the Settling Bucket, and the oil feeding to the pump is usually pretty clean, unless somebody cuts psilomelane. The only design flaw is that sometimes the tubing gets clogged, and somebody has to put their mouth on it and blow it out. Eww. I mean, I blow out the crud from the water lines on my CabKing, but that's just water and cat hair! Something like this might work on the BD10, and pretty easy to implement if you've modified your cart to accommodate the bottom drain. Probably works best if the saw is used regularly, so the crud never dries in the lines. Question: did you use the saw with water at all? It would be interesting to hear your comparison with water and (say) Gemlube versus with oil. In terms of blade life and cleanup hassle. I ask this because when I used water with Gem Lube, the water would mostly dry between uses, and the crud in the bottom of the saw would dry up and crack into chunks, and I could just pick up the chunks of dried crud pretty easily (or most of it anyway), making it so that I never really needed to fully swamp out the saw.
|
|