|
Post by oregon on Apr 8, 2020 21:33:50 GMT -5
I think that makes sense. It definitely has the same color paint as the table, factory bends, press fit, not homemade in my guess. I think this is one of the oldest versions of this saw, bolt down holes are cast Into the inside of the body, and it was well looked after (even the original Plastic hood is still in good shape) Just everything was coated in decades worth of hardened oil. I've always done the hammer swage / swedge method, but see there are a few mentions of feeding a bearing into the blade mentioned. I'll bet this was an extra 'Real HP' part back when ago, looks like it would clamp in the vise just fine. Cool, thanks.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Apr 8, 2020 17:36:06 GMT -5
" old 12 Lortone saw"....
I'll wager on hardened grease inside the feed motor gearbox.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Apr 8, 2020 16:54:29 GMT -5
Refurbing a highland park 10" gravity feed slab saw like this one
In the box was this piece below in green, it has the same golden paint color on it.... seems like I've seen this 'bearing on a roller' on some other little slab saw so the vise plate isn't dragging on the table? These HP saws have the brass rod in the picture. I don't see anywhere for it to go on the current culprit? Anyone recognize it?
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Apr 7, 2020 19:35:42 GMT -5
I seem to bust springs more frequently than most. My orignial loto came screwed to a board wo and dowel. second wasn't even on a board. I've tried to duplicate the factory setup, but never seemed satisfactory. I just printed a piece that has a notch every 8th inch for 1/4" dowels. seems to work fine, but I still seem to bust springs. right at the back near the bolt hole.
I just drilled some spent sawsall blades the other day, going to see if they work instead of keeping on buying springs... here's the cad...
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Apr 5, 2020 17:06:21 GMT -5
Thanks, Yes I did that, but blade still has wobble. Looking for a replacement source if the bearings were snug (press fit) then the wobble has to be the shaft or blade... Doesn't sound like the arbor is the culprit, but it looks like you could just put two pillow blocks in place instead.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Apr 3, 2020 11:07:31 GMT -5
Don't forget about Georgia visit Vikingman. here's all the manual images in a single pdf, if cloudinary will host a pdf..
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Apr 3, 2020 0:32:27 GMT -5
Not a good habit, but fun to tinker with a new to me machine. was a good deal its labeled as a vibrasonic VT-8. (two 4lb hoppers) The hoppers certainly look like all the VT-12 pictures and the VT-8 isn't sold by Diamond Pacific any longer. The old fuzzy manual in the forums does list the 6lb and 4lb hopper separate. (if anyone has a sharper copy of the manual, let me know) I'm guessing at this point they are different, and the 4lb ones have just been replaced by the all rubber 4lb ones with the adapter plate so no longer made. Anyway, if you have a vt-12 with the 6lb hoppers and wouldn't mind measuring that'd be great. These are about 6.75" tall, tops are ~4.25" OD.
Thanks..
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 31, 2020 20:17:51 GMT -5
By the time I thought about and went back to check it out it was listed as sale pending. Only took two hours. Chuck would a lortone ns8 fit the bill? might have another Hillquist arbor too. Both came on warped boards, but were running pretty quiet last fall when I got them.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 29, 2020 22:04:23 GMT -5
Exact-Span vs Expando - they're different drums, For 8" drums, they take different sized belts. Not sure about 6"?
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 26, 2020 21:20:10 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 20, 2020 19:46:53 GMT -5
Thanks, Tommy's pics look so similar, so much for google image search!
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 20, 2020 16:48:00 GMT -5
Think I've seen this stuff posted somewhere before, but my search skills are eluding me... Couple of pcs in my buckets, put one in the saw this morning.
Thanks for the help...
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 20, 2020 11:47:19 GMT -5
If you have some of these motors that have failed, drop me a line. The GE motors have slightly different internals in the gear box, and I haven't had to visit repairing those yet, The "not" HP company sells replacement gears for the GE motors.
If you have any Dead Robbin Myers motors because of the gear failure, drop me a line. The delrin/nylon/uhmw gear is formed on a shaft so when it splits it's pretty much done. I have printed some replacements that seem to work well enough.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 20, 2020 1:11:52 GMT -5
I procured an older Inland Wiz glass grinder/router on ebay for $63 and attached a small container lid to the deck for a depth guide. The guide doesn't make it a foolproof groove, but it does give me an idea of when I'm getting close to the right depth.
if you have a 3D printer, or lathe, you can make a bushing that sits on top of the cutter to give you the proper depth... 2c.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 19, 2020 19:21:41 GMT -5
From a different wall at Succor Creek, cut these this morning, exteriors looked similar. Opal one is cool.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 15, 2020 12:08:06 GMT -5
What does the outside look like? you could see the banding, that's what made me drag it down the hill. it was like a mile hike, and the original chunk was probably 30-40 lbs, ~ 6x10x20. I cut the narrow end off and it all looked solid, so cut 4" inches in and found this vug, few crystals, and kinda unexpected... The vug seemed to head off to one side of the remaining larger piece but another cut still showed a cavity. Have a couple hefty chunks, will have to asses a few fractures etc, just slabbed this off while it was in the vice to polish and put on the shelf. Nothing else really close to this up there that I've found. Just different it deserved to be enjoyed a bit.
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 15, 2020 1:03:18 GMT -5
finally chucked it in the big saw. Looked all solid from the outside was going to be a nice solid sphere, but there's a big vug running through the center. Nice banded jasper, unlike anything else I've found local. I'm sure it has an interesting story to tell...
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 14, 2020 17:11:54 GMT -5
Good catch on the tag. The motor does not have any hump on it like I am used to seeing on capacitor start motors but it was a running piece of equipment that was being used as it was wired. That sure does not mean it was right though. The motor was used for a two wheel lortone arbor that probably did not require much start up torque but the application I am going to use it for is going to have much more start up resistance. yeah, figured someone had bypassed the startup cap, that's probably the third wire. Doesn't happen to be a wire diagram inside the cover does there? Shouldn't present a crisis. Always hard to pass up $5 & $10 motors and good to have a stash though!
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 14, 2020 15:24:44 GMT -5
can't tell from your pics, is there still a capacitor attached? older motors tend not to have a dedicated ground screw...
|
|
|
Post by oregon on Mar 10, 2020 10:43:43 GMT -5
You always want the most easily replaceable and cheaper part to be the wear point, the bushing. yeah, I imagine that's why they switched. Was a little baffled that the original had the bushing locked to the rod, but I maybe the threaded rod rotating inside the bushing wears a bit quicker and that might have been their reasoning?
I'm guessing someone put a newer version feed motor on this, can imagine they originally sold it feeding ~ 3 min/inch! Motor's seem hard to find, so looks like a couple hours in the shop to make a new split nut & finer feed rod.
You don't happen to have any of those spare cheap dayton motors Grainger was clearing out - knew I should have stocked up on a few!
|
|