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Post by oregon on Mar 8, 2020 22:59:04 GMT -5
Just a future reference when someone else runs into this...
I had just redone another Lortone LS-10 saw which made me want to drag out my basket case ST-10 and get it dialed in.
LS-10 cut beautifully after a few break in cuts, new mk303, 1:1 pulleys to bring the new blade up to speed. Dial indicators to line everything up, tighten up the brass screws as much as possible. After doing the same to the ST-10, it cut 'ok' but not near as nice. I had put a latching relay on mine (oil bath once, never again) and noted that it looked like the same brevel gear motors were in the auto feeds.
Finally realized that on the old ST-10, the auto feed rod is a 3/8-16, while the newer saws have 3/8-24 threaded rod (16 threads per inch vs 24) I don't know if the st-10 originally came with slower rpm motors but mine's clearly feeding too fast. Maybe someone swapped out for a quicker motor because they wanted to cut faster? I'd personally just cut much slower and not spend as much time polishing later. Not sure if I'll search for a slower 2.5-3 rpm motor, or just change out the rod/split nut yet.
There are also slight differences how the lock collars and bronze bushings for the feed are set up, Not sure if it's better to have the bronze locked to the shaft and turning in the aluminum casting, or have the threaded rod turning in the bronze bushing -imagine that might wear quickly, but wearing out the casting would certainly be worse.
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Post by oregon on Mar 6, 2020 12:41:32 GMT -5
1777
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Post by oregon on Feb 20, 2020 12:03:54 GMT -5
Feel free to speculate on this one, kinda eerie to see it in person the first time!
Friend has this in their collection, and was wondering about the value, and how to go about marketing it. Feel free to speculate. It has been examined by the local university geologists and has a letter of authenticity (ie it is a natural specimen and has not been doctored). Measures about 4" across.
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Post by oregon on Feb 19, 2020 22:30:00 GMT -5
It is the o-rings that keeps the hopper assembly pulled down. I hadn't realized that, interesting. I guess motion stops if both break. If one breaks, does the other break quickly too?
Might try a Viton Oring next time, it's a bit more durable than buna for many sealing applications, not sure about belts...
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Post by oregon on Feb 19, 2020 13:45:50 GMT -5
Any idea why the "V" shape (just for Viking?) seems like the shaft is near center on the springs, and just wonder why the thing isn't more rectangular...
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Post by oregon on Feb 17, 2020 0:44:24 GMT -5
Interesting that all this material comes from a few small locations. my 'small' $10 slab with lots of features.
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Post by oregon on Feb 3, 2020 20:22:17 GMT -5
Now I’m confused. I have removed the bearing grease and replaced it with sewing machine oil. The oil (not grease) is one on the gears and the bushings. Should I put the grease back on? This is a shaded pole motor with a Gear box attached. The scintered bronze bushings of the motor have small capillaries that allow oil to flow from the felt pad and lubricate. I'm sure there's a bunch of youtube videos of cleaning small fan shaded pole motors wo gearboxes as they tend to fail because these bushings get contaminated. Gear boxes usually contain grease for longevity. With oil only in there it may still last for years, but, I do think the old brevel motors give off some heat in that box, and grease was in there from the factory. 2c.
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Post by oregon on Feb 2, 2020 22:53:30 GMT -5
I took everything apart again this afternoon. I removed the bearing grease and used sewing machine oil instead. The saw is running fine right now, so I guess that worked. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate being able to come here and be pretty sure someone will be willing to help out. sounds like you did fine, but just in case.. there should be 'bearing' grease on the gears in the gearbox, just not on/in the bronze bushings ..
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Post by oregon on Jan 29, 2020 21:09:40 GMT -5
What's the best way to clean them? There's probably a youtube on the 'proper' way. Usually I just remove old oil/grease from the shaft and the bronze bushing. Resoak the felt pad with a light machine oil. make sure it spins freely.
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Post by oregon on Jan 29, 2020 11:59:42 GMT -5
I tried running it with the cover off and it didn’t seem to move. I’ll try loosening the set screw tomorrow. did you have the gears removed too, just to see if the rotor runs? Usually it's also a good idea to remove the rotor, clean it and the bronze bushings very well. Upon reassembling, try to align the bronze sleeves so the rotor spins freely. These shaded pole motors have very little startup torque.
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Post by oregon on Jan 14, 2020 14:33:13 GMT -5
Yes, not thirds. Do the math and it's like 27% or similar. It's been years since I did the math so don't remember exactly. But use the math. You only need to make one side. This to set the saw. Once the saw is set to removed edges and corners, cut them off! No lines needed ah yeah, I guess that's true if you have a 45 tray bolted down right, hadn't thought that far ahead. Yeah, math is done, essentially printed a rafter square with the appropriate markings on the side for the dimensions of the cube.
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Post by oregon on Jan 13, 2020 20:24:40 GMT -5
Sounds like fun. I’m thinking about making a flux/diamond mix to fill the 3mm tubes with. Use real coarse diamond 30-50. So just diamond & flux, no brass filler?... Any idea of what ratio of flux/diamonds?, seems worth the experiment.
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Post by oregon on Jan 13, 2020 13:01:20 GMT -5
Sorta new to sphere grinding here, (picked up a couple machines for not much
Anyway, the local couple folks like to mark cubes in thirds to mark the corner cutoffs, and that seems to be a traditional method. How do you do it?
My beef is that the third position isn't mathmatically correct, results in about a 10% smaller sphere than would be necessary (in the ideal world).
So I printed a triangle to mark things quickly and properly, but wondering what other folks do. Thanks.
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Post by oregon on Jan 13, 2020 12:52:01 GMT -5
Hmmmmmmmmm VERY interesting. Never knew you could use brass tubing for brazing with. There is an expensive patented commercial product that is marketed to sphere makers and others. In the pics it's clear it's just tubing filled with diamond and flux. Not my invention. I just made it work So do you prefer the brazing rod over either ordering diamond segments and brazing those on, or just ordering a set of core drill cups? China prices are tempting...
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Post by oregon on Jan 8, 2020 21:04:55 GMT -5
Not worth your re-configuring, but saw this at the bone yard. Motor cooling fan shroud had very tight tolerances but still was a 1000 rpm motor. Imagine with a more aggressive curved blade you could move a bit more air? 2c. Could 3D print you something, but seems like your computer fan covered things well enough. Just thought it might have been possible mechanism for the original motor.
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Post by oregon on Dec 27, 2019 19:56:54 GMT -5
Came across this the other day. I assume the fan blade is put on backwards to blow air on the motor Chuck That looks to be a 1200 to 1700 rpm motor Chuck. At that speed the shaft mounted fan should be turning plenty fast enough to cool the motor. This crazy 225 rpm motor is incredibly slow. Sure seems too slow to have a shaft mount fan to cool it. It was apparent before I purchased these air-over 225's I would have to have an external fan. that motor looks sealed on the rear as well?
Any update on the slow motor tumbler - been away, don't see any new threads?
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Post by oregon on Nov 27, 2019 11:56:06 GMT -5
One reason for not adding any extra components is a 'look' I am pursuing being - 'total simplicity'. motor/shafts/bearings - that's it. bare bones simple and concise. Sort of an art form lol, forgive my madness. It's an OCD thing. An art tumbler ha ha. are both shafts going to be 1.5? if only driving one (HDPE barrels are pretty grippy?) no reason you couldn't put a smaller rod on the second - ha, mount a second motor on the second rod, some sort of easy dis-engagement for each shaft, small shaft for slow speed, large shaft for high speed. Different sized rollers would add to the the art appeal.
but yeah, at $12, 1A, just powering both rods (even the same size) with separate motors probably cheaper than pulleys & belt - ha.
Of course if you wanted arty, you could just change directions and go for the lathe gear change look...
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Post by oregon on Nov 26, 2019 17:08:19 GMT -5
Fun building projects - but what do you guys do with hundreds of lbs of tumbles? pave the driveway?</abbr>
17mm is pretty common metric size, reminded me that my two barrels are running on 17mm rods with outer heater hose sourced from a treadmill. But those rods came out of rollers with bearings pressed into the ends of them, the rollers would have been in the 2-2.5" range. Folks are always giving those away - I should tinker with the large DC motors out of them yet as well. large pillow blocks aren't as cheap, large D rod spendy here. The vbelt/pulley indirect drive is still a viable solution... But being in the scrounge yard center of the universe, 20c /lb for parts doesn't rule many ideas out. Looking forward to finished product.
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Post by oregon on Nov 25, 2019 22:36:29 GMT -5
1/2" shaft fits in hole 1/2' deep. After that the hole in shaft looks like it steps down to 12mm full depth. 1/2" shaft pressed in 1/2" deep step. Probably not good for a reliable coupling method. Could be drilled and pinned with brass pin but not the best way. ghetto slip joint, but if you have some thick heater hose with a close ID & some hose clamps, that can work well for an inline motor shaft to drive shaft connection. (Apple cider grinder's been working that way for years 5/8 to 17mm is pretty close.
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Post by oregon on Nov 25, 2019 22:06:21 GMT -5
This thing is a beast for a 1 amp motor. Gotta have a ton of torque. It just struck me why this thing is so heavily built(giant bearings and big 17mm shaft) - as knave noted it likely runs a cantilevered squirrel cage fan blade. Not much worse duty than HVAC squirrel cage fan duty considering bird's nest, build up on blades, leaves, off balances, etc. looks like a lotta motor for $12, thought maybe a motor cooling fan would help, but with the low rpm, might not do much....
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