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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 0:44:24 GMT -5
Yep my used 1/3 hp 1725 rpm motor fried! I used it on my Lorton grinder. So I thought to myself- this will be an easy inexpensive fix? Wrong! Back up for minute. I bought the Lortone cabbing unit new ==4 years ago. I didn’t get the motor with it-- cause used motors are a dime a dozen. Boom! The first place I called had a used motor for 25.00. Nice. It had a spot welded bracket on it and it fitted right on the cabber. I was grinding lickety split! Whoo Hoo I beat Murphy! I got lots & lots of hours of this 25.00 marvel Now I need replacement. This one shop as 1/3 hp, 1725rpm, ½ spindle, evaporate motors new for 40.00. But no mounting bracket. So I go to Grainger to get a mounting bracket. I tellya…. it was like rocket science trying to a straight answer. Anyway I ended up buying a new motor Dayton motor for 150 bucks. Yuck! The mounting bracket is attached That made me scratch my head. So I went to Ace Hardware today. I see mounting brackets for ten bucks!!!! Slap the forehead. Ha ah.. Anyway it’s a better motor than the evaporate motor would have been I need to hook up an outlet cord to it. That I’m a bit skittish about doing I have a 16 gauge replacement cord -- with a ground wire. I’m starting to think--all I need is 2 wire cord? Instead of a 3 wire grounded cord? The new Dayton motor connection area Plus I’m assuming that the rotation wires are now set in a neutral position? The face plate tells how to connect them for rotation I probably take it to pro to connect the cord. But I did do lots of research on motors. So I might have an answer to a replacement motor question Grind on Ed
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 17, 2011 0:58:41 GMT -5
Usually the motors come set for clockwise rotation and you reverse the red and black wires to reverse direction.
Lee
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rockhound97058
freely admits to licking rocks
Thundereggs - Oregons Official State Rock!
Member since January 2006
Posts: 760
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Post by rockhound97058 on Nov 17, 2011 1:35:32 GMT -5
You should be able to reverse the wires to get it to spin either direction. As far as a ground wire... I usually grounded my cord to the screw that covers the connectors. Also I used a flat wire connector which slides over the flat post that's shown in the your photo. This is the kind of connectors I used. Get these at the local auto store or hardware store for a couple bucks a pack. www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Quick-Disconnect-5X425?Pid=search - Some of the older motors you had to strip the wire, and then try to wrap it around a screw and tighten it down to hold it.
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 1:52:52 GMT -5
yeah rockhound I connected that outlet cord on the old Dayton and that was just 2 wire connected to the screw heads.
I think your right about the electric clips for the wiring in the new motor Thanks for the info!
Lee, you may be right how the default set-up is for rotation, right now
but the way I looked at it it seems like they were going to force the installer to make a decision I'll let ya know...
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Post by tandl on Nov 17, 2011 9:23:35 GMT -5
Ed, i have the same motor as your old one , it is a three wire with ground . did you take the cover off and look at the wires? just wondering
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 9:53:37 GMT -5
Hi Ted The old motor I did connect the outlet cord. That was a real simple 2 wire connection
The other picture is the new motor connection area. Its much different than the old motor. It has the prongs for clip on-- it seems-- that old one doesn't have.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 17, 2011 9:58:36 GMT -5
Use a ground wire for sure. There should be a green screw in the connection area for ground. The terminals you connect the leads to should say L-1 and L-2 or be identified on the label as such by number. If wiring diagram shows one as "ungrounded lead" hook black to that one. Grounded lead will be white if so identified. Plug in after attaching cord. If rotation is wrong just reverse the red and black leads.
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 17, 2011 9:58:52 GMT -5
Ed, does that motor have a green screw under the access cover ? If so, that's where your ground wire goes. If not, connect your ground wire under one of the screws that hold the access cover on.
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Post by tandl on Nov 17, 2011 10:00:16 GMT -5
Yeah, i was wondering if the wires had came lose on the old motor, happened to mine a couple weeks ago, they have a threaded vertical flat post with the screw through .
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 10:07:31 GMT -5
Hi Don I don't see no green screw the motor as a short yellow/green wire that's attached outside on the armature that seems to me to be the ground wire
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 17, 2011 10:31:57 GMT -5
I'd be afraid of hooking up ground to that wire. Some are dual voltage motors, and can be hooked up for 110 or 220 volts. Does the motor data plate have a wiring diagram on it ? If so, post a good pic of it and we should be able to talk you through hooking that puppy up.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 17, 2011 10:53:44 GMT -5
If it is a resilient mount (motor held on mount with clamps) there can be an external ground wire that attaches to a ground screw on the mount cradle. Some motor mounts have metal tabs to connect motor ground to base, some use external wire. Either way, new motor should have wiring diagram either on the motor or inside terminal cover.
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 11:13:22 GMT -5
Hi John !!! Your right ! That green/yellow wire is attached by the mounting resilient clamp. I think it some sort of secondary ground wire. Anyway I won't mess with it. Hope your doing well and get to see ya at either the Tucson or Apache Junction shows! Ed
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 11:17:31 GMT -5
Usually the motors come set for clockwise rotation and you reverse the red and black wires to reverse direction. Lee Hi Lee You be right! The motor is wired for clockwise rotation The default position So I don't have to mess with that. Thanks! Ed
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 11:21:25 GMT -5
Use a ground wire for sure. There should be a green screw in the connection area for ground. The terminals you connect the leads to should say L-1 and L-2 or be identified on the label as such by number. If wiring diagram shows one as "ungrounded lead" hook black to that one. Grounded lead will be white if so identified. Plug in after attaching cord. If rotation is wrong just reverse the red and black leads. Hi Don I see the green screw your speaking of ! Will connect the ground wire there. I just got the quick connectors. Plan on wiring this motor up -- later My job gets in the way of all my fun Ha ha Ed
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 11:24:08 GMT -5
Yeah, i was wondering if the wires had came lose on the old motor, happened to mine a couple weeks ago, they have a threaded vertical flat post with the screw through . That a good point Ted But I think its the bearing that are bad on the old motor. Power is going to it but no start up spinning.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 17, 2011 12:46:25 GMT -5
Sounds like you got your $25 worth.
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Post by deb193redux on Nov 17, 2011 13:42:55 GMT -5
I gotten 1/3hp motors form amazon.com that are for Grizzly woodworking equipment. They are sealed, already wired, and have a switch, and are under $90. The frame is 56c, which mounts on a board just fine, but is not going to git on a Lortone motor mount or anything. I am not sure if it is thermally protected - but they are quiet, solid, rugged, and cheap.
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Post by mohs on Nov 17, 2011 15:19:31 GMT -5
Yep John that was 25.00 well spent !
And I'm not sure the 10.00 motor mount brackets at Ace would have fit the Lortone base But I'm sure with a little modification it would
The frame on the old Dayton is 56Z On the new Dayton 48Y
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 17, 2011 16:27:44 GMT -5
56 would have a 5/8" shaft, 48 would be 1/2" if I remember right.
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