darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 11, 2013 22:19:56 GMT -5
I have a 16" Covington. (1152cs) It's been bogging down. It's 6 years old. I purchased it new. The oil was dirty (1/2 " sluge on the bottom) and the blade was shot. I cleaned the saw, Fresh oil, filtered and new, to cover the NEW blade 1/2". No play in the arbor and very little play in the vice table. (maybe 1/16" max") I think the motor is dying but as I said it's only 6 years old! Anybody have any thoughts ? Thanks in advance.
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 11, 2013 22:23:58 GMT -5
what model new blade?
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 11, 2013 22:38:54 GMT -5
It"s a Chinese crimped blade. I have been using these blades almost the whole time I've had the saw.
I forgot to mention it started bogging down before. That was the main reason I did the cleaning and blade change.
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 11, 2013 22:44:46 GMT -5
what are you currently cutting?
if you turn the saw off after it cuts about an inch, can you easily move the blade?
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 11, 2013 22:52:54 GMT -5
I am cutting 3" t-egg. After it bogs down and I shut it of the blade will move freely. The saw is weight feed and I go light to conserve blade life. It starts to bog at about 2" of blade contact
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 11, 2013 23:04:15 GMT -5
blade moving freely after bogging down has got me stumped
is the motor getting excessively hot? could this be a thermal failure?
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 11, 2013 23:11:11 GMT -5
I do not know hot hot is too hot for this motor. It does get hot. Not too hot to touch
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Post by catmandewe on Jan 11, 2013 23:11:39 GMT -5
Sounds like new motor time to me.
Tony
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Jan 11, 2013 23:15:23 GMT -5
My saw fooled me into thinking it was bogging the motor. Since the motor is basicly silent, you mostly are hearing the blade and arbor turning. The drive belt had enough slack to let it slip so the blade got in a cut and stalled the arbor but motor was turning away. Check the belt tension.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 11, 2013 23:25:00 GMT -5
Just for jollies check all wires and switches. Anything impeding current to a motor can cause excessive heat which will cause thermally protected motors to stop. When I rewire I always go one size thicker on wire gauge and use switches rated for 2-3 times the load. Tony's most likely right though, motor time.
Lee
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 11, 2013 23:29:43 GMT -5
The belt tension looked good when I did the cleaning and blade change but I tightened it up a bit anyway. Did not make a difference.
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 11, 2013 23:58:14 GMT -5
Will check the electrical. There aint much though. Just the on/off switch and the power cord wired to the motor. (no power feed)
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The Dad_Ohs
fully equipped rock polisher
Take me to your Labradorite!!
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,860
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Jan 12, 2013 2:09:32 GMT -5
I would say bearings, but to really check them you would have to remove blade, and belt, and spin the arbor by hand to see if it turns freely or not, but, after everything here, I'm more inclined to say motor too!!
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Post by jakesrocks on Jan 12, 2013 11:01:27 GMT -5
I have the same saw, but with power feed. One thing to check is the pulleys. For some strange reason the set screws in my pulleys wouldn't stay tight, allowing the belt to slip and the blade bind. I removed the pulleys and cleaned the set screws and threaded holes. When I replaced the pulleys I used Lock Tite on the set screws. No more loose pulleys.
Another thing is the blade. The Covington green blade that came with my saw was useless. I replaced it with a 303S blade, and it's been cutting like a champ ever since.
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Post by phil on Jan 12, 2013 16:11:52 GMT -5
Our 14 inch was acting the same. Blade would start then get in a little way and bog down. Turned out the belt was tight, but slipping.... glaze, age, etc. We replaced the belt and it's cutting like a champ again. We thought we'd be buying a new motor, but turns out the motor is fine... So, before you spend the big $$ on a motor, try a few bucks on a new belt?
Phil
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Jan 12, 2013 19:35:46 GMT -5
Thanks Don, You nailed it! The pully on the arbor shaft was spinning causing the blade to bog down.
I love this Place! ;D ;D
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 13, 2013 0:27:56 GMT -5
in hindsight that makes a lit of sense since you reported the blade turned freely when you stopped the saw after bogging down.
in hindsight I also should have asked if the belt turned when you turned the blade.
glad you got it running without expense.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Jan 13, 2013 20:20:17 GMT -5
That AR15 arbor doesn't have a keyway which complicates things and you may have to use locktite. Also Covington had issues with that shaft because it was overly hardened making the setscrew difficult to get a good bite. They have since resolved that somewhat. Also oil mist getting on the shaft doesn't help.
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Jan 13, 2013 21:06:05 GMT -5
One easy way to near always [never say never] solve a setscrew bite problem is to put a "bullet hole", my term, in the shaft where the setscrew bites into it. This is no more than a drill point deep, and the diameter same as the minor diameter of the setscrew thread. More clearly; the drill used will be the same diameter as the internal diameter of the threads in the pulley. In a too hard to drill shaft, a Dremel can be used to grind a divot in the shaft for the setscrew to seat into. Thread retaining [removable] Loctite, or even fingernail polish will help keep the setscrew from loosening.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Jan 14, 2013 12:40:48 GMT -5
Thanks Quartz I forgot to mention that part lol.
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