Diamond Pacific Pixie Geyser Modification
Apr 3, 2017 18:56:06 GMT -5
Peruano, Pat, and 5 more like this
Post by opalpyrexia on Apr 3, 2017 18:56:06 GMT -5
Not long after acquiring my Pixie, I noticed that vibration would sometimes cause the geyser to slowly walk out from under the wheel being used. This happened enough that I decided to modify the geyser so that it can't move once positioned. I created a clamp that secures the geyser to the tray. It's always optimally positioned plus the clamp is a helpful reminder to move it when switching wheels.
I drilled a shallow hole in the side of the geyser (lined up with the hole on top) and soldered it to a brass rod.
The other end of the brass rod is epoxied into one of two blocks of 1/2" acrylic. That block also has a 1/4-20 brass bolt epoxied into it, as well as two 1/4" aluminum guide pins. Flush with the top edge of the block a thin strip of 1/8" acrylic is cemented. That strip is the fulcrum that enables the clamping action when the two blocks are tightened together.
The second acrylic block has three holes in it: two for the aluminum guide pins and one for the brass bolt. The black knob has mating 1/4-20 threads.
One other mod was to replace the plastic tubing with some silicone fuel line from a hobby shop (as seen in the top two photos). It's heavy and very flexible and lies down in the tray. Actually, I had to replace the plastic tubing because one day it got caught up on one of the metal wheels. In a blink of an eye it wrapped around the shaft. I was very lucky that the geyser didn't come flying up and into my face. That's one good reason to switch to silicone tubing.
Not shown, I also screwed a couple of aluminum tabs with 3M rubber feet to the sides of the Pixie's base near the upper housing. They hold the tray in a fixed position preventing it from traveling.
I drilled a shallow hole in the side of the geyser (lined up with the hole on top) and soldered it to a brass rod.
The other end of the brass rod is epoxied into one of two blocks of 1/2" acrylic. That block also has a 1/4-20 brass bolt epoxied into it, as well as two 1/4" aluminum guide pins. Flush with the top edge of the block a thin strip of 1/8" acrylic is cemented. That strip is the fulcrum that enables the clamping action when the two blocks are tightened together.
The second acrylic block has three holes in it: two for the aluminum guide pins and one for the brass bolt. The black knob has mating 1/4-20 threads.
One other mod was to replace the plastic tubing with some silicone fuel line from a hobby shop (as seen in the top two photos). It's heavy and very flexible and lies down in the tray. Actually, I had to replace the plastic tubing because one day it got caught up on one of the metal wheels. In a blink of an eye it wrapped around the shaft. I was very lucky that the geyser didn't come flying up and into my face. That's one good reason to switch to silicone tubing.
Not shown, I also screwed a couple of aluminum tabs with 3M rubber feet to the sides of the Pixie's base near the upper housing. They hold the tray in a fixed position preventing it from traveling.
