agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Nov 22, 2018 14:06:37 GMT -5
I use WD 40 for removing stains on some of my clothes when washing them. I thought that removing greasy stains and some that weren't was a bunch cheaper than some of the pricey products on the market ! I thought that if it worked that well on clothes, it would work wonders removing grease and fish blood from my boat carpet !
NOT SO MUCH !
The darn stuff broke down the killer adhesive they use to glue the carpet down. I had to poke a turkey baster thru the carpet from the outside in, and , re glue it the hard way then use a wooden roller to spread it around under the loose carpet. If you have ever tried to remove old carpet from a boat you can appreciate how strong a solvent that stuff really is. Adding a small amount to the saw coolant has to be about the best thing going !
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Post by parfive on Nov 22, 2018 14:53:02 GMT -5
Basically lighter fluid in a spray can.
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Post by Pat on Nov 22, 2018 17:42:49 GMT -5
I don't recall chewing paint off the walls, but we chewed melted tar off the road in Bakersfield when I was a little kid. The big kids did it, so it was a neat thing to do I was 2-3.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Nov 22, 2018 19:35:01 GMT -5
I've used WD40 to clean dried up rock gunk off of used equipment purchases for years. Buy the gallon cans and pour it into hand-pumped spritzer bottles so most of it goes on the surface I want it to rather than using the aerosol cans which atomize it too much into mist form that doesn't make it to the surface being cleaned plus is more likely to be inhaled. And I use disposable nitrile gloves when handling.
As for my personal water cooled lapidary equipment, I always give the equipment a good cleaning with water and a sponge after use so dried up rock gunk is never an issue. When I use oil when faceting I always give the machine a thorough cleaning after use too with paper towels and a sponge. My oil cooled saws never sit long enough to dry out so it isn't an issue there either. It only takes a few minutes after use to keep most lapidary equipment clean after each use so doing so prevents solvent hazards from ever being an issue and helps the equipment stay in better condition and last longer. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Nov 22, 2018 19:43:07 GMT -5
Basically lighter fluid in a spray can. Lighter fluid is more similar to NAPTHA (which is a highly refined mineral spirit) and is a much stronger solvent than WD40 is, but not as strong of a solvent as lacquer thinner or methylene chloride. Larry C.
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Post by parfive on Nov 22, 2018 21:05:49 GMT -5
WD-40 ≈ naptha ≈ Zippo/Ronsonol lighter fluid U.S. WD-40 MSDS lists main ingredients, incl Aliphatic Hydrocarbon at 40 – 50% by weight and LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon at 12 – 18% by weight. Overseas WD-40 MSDS (Denmark, Germany, prolly all Euro) lists it as NAPTHA (PETROLEUM) AT 67% BY WEIGHT The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients: 60–80% heavy naphtha (a petroleum product used e.g. in wick type cigarette lighters), hydrogen treated 1–5% carbon dioxide
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Post by TheRock on Nov 22, 2018 21:10:45 GMT -5
I have experienced major skin issues with WD40, used to use it as rust prevention on rubber molds until I was able to do a test and prove to the boss that it actually caused steel to begin to rust sooner than untreated steel. I never buy the stuff any more, If I need a penetrating oil there are scores of superior products, and I use nitrile gloves with them all. As for ATF, it's good to note that woodman Bob's saws are in an open air shed where the really nasty anti-wear additives don't get inhaled too much. Yeah, I know, safety troll... I use the water additive for trim saws mixed at half strength for drilling, and the drill press stays pretty clean, maybe I'll see how it affects the genie water, but so far my pressure washer does the job nicely. What kind of water additive? Has it been thoroughly medically tested?
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Post by parfive on Nov 22, 2018 21:37:59 GMT -5
. . . WD40, used to use it as rust prevention on rubber molds until I was able to do a test and prove to the boss that it actually caused steel to begin to rust sooner than untreated steel. I can believe that. I screwed up one of my micrometers years ago – parked one of those moisture-absorbing sacks (that came packed with some other gizmo) in the same drawer of the tool chest. Rusted the shit out of it.
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 23, 2018 2:30:17 GMT -5
I have experienced major skin issues with WD40, used to use it as rust prevention on rubber molds until I was able to do a test and prove to the boss that it actually caused steel to begin to rust sooner than untreated steel. I never buy the stuff any more, If I need a penetrating oil there are scores of superior products, and I use nitrile gloves with them all. As for ATF, it's good to note that woodman Bob's saws are in an open air shed where the really nasty anti-wear additives don't get inhaled too much. Yeah, I know, safety troll... I use the water additive for trim saws mixed at half strength for drilling, and the drill press stays pretty clean, maybe I'll see how it affects the genie water, but so far my pressure washer does the job nicely. What kind of water additive? Has it been thoroughly medically tested? I usually use the Johnson Bros stuff, my local shop sells it and I have had excellent luck with it.
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Post by TheRock on Nov 25, 2018 6:29:54 GMT -5
What kind of water additive? Has it been thoroughly medically tested? I usually use the Johnson Bros stuff, my local shop sells it and I have had excellent luck with it. You would be better off using Whale Sperm, Ill stick wih WD-40 which does what I want it to, "Displace Water" If your Skins that tender your a Cream Puff, Wear Gloves or stay in the house.
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