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Post by Peruano on Jan 9, 2020 8:21:33 GMT -5
As you apparently know, if the oil hits the front of the blade (moving downward) it is less likely to be thrown forward toward the operator, but oil hitting the blade in the top quarter is more likely to project toward the front of the saw and make a mess. Oil-dri a cat litter type oil absorbent is a great way to clean up any drips or spray, and might help you feel more comfortable about moving into the garage. I doubt that you will produce dust and even over the long term if managed properly, oil mist should be minimal nuisance (but that depends of many factors - most importantly the saw and the operator and the volume of work). I live in arid dusty New Mexico and the frequent winds blow enough dust to mitigate oil contamination on my shop floor and surfaces.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 6, 2020 19:47:44 GMT -5
Rock Chalk, Jayhawk! I moved the other direction. Finishing graduate school at KU, and wandering through various interesting locales in the intervening 45 years - now in Albuquerque and basking in rocks. Let me know if you want anything in particular from the region.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 4, 2020 9:32:03 GMT -5
I have a separate shop but its unheated. I keep an electric teakettle to warm enough water to heat the water for my cab machines. I have a tiny electric cube space heater that given an hour can raise the shed to reasonable working temp, but this is New Mexico not the Arctic. Even surgical gloves when I'm washing tumbling material Outside. If you are getting your body wet (apron or not) you may be running more water on your grinding wheels than you need. If you can hold your hand near the spinning wheel and feel water mist/spray and your wheels don't build up residue, you have enough water. If its wetting your belt line and shoes, you have excessive water flow. I hav3e a real luxury apron designed by friend. Its a waterproof vinyl but has the lower edge sewed up to form a trough to catch the water running down the apron (and an occasional stone dropped by a careless operator).
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Post by Peruano on Jan 4, 2020 9:20:44 GMT -5
I'm betting you will see a world of difference. I like to see oil dripping off the cut, but if the cut stays clean without sludge buildup you probably are providing enough oil. Enjoy the new blade.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 3, 2020 9:58:35 GMT -5
Use the sic belts until you convince yourself you need diamond. But . . . wash your stones between grit stages. You don't want to carry grit up the scales. If this were to be your only machine, I'd save my diamond belt purchase for 3000 and above. Just another perspective but I run oil in my trim saw except of special occasions. I hate cleaning and draining the saw so with oil I do it once every 3 months and not daily as I would have to do with water. Even rust inhibitors, don't prevent rust. Soap, oil-dri, and good shop technique overcomes every liability of oil for me.
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Post by Peruano on Dec 18, 2019 16:10:53 GMT -5
Probably your pump is strong enough but you may be making it do too much vertical lift. Just elevate the receptacle you are pumping from a bit off the floor and the flow will increase substantially. Just a possibility.
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Post by Peruano on Dec 16, 2019 17:00:07 GMT -5
The mk 225 is a blade listed as porcelain blade but rated good for hard stones like agates. As a porcelain blade it should be totally fine on a tile saw (read porcelain tile). I and others here have had great luck with this blade -- it cuts for years and does not dish as do less sturdy blades. It should work fine for you.
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Post by Peruano on Dec 15, 2019 16:36:23 GMT -5
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Post by Peruano on Dec 15, 2019 14:43:40 GMT -5
Not knowing the configuration of your tile saw, I'd suggest you consider changing the drive or driven pulley size to accomplish the step down of rpms. Some motors can handle the other approach to speed control, but some can't.
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Post by Peruano on Dec 10, 2019 18:02:23 GMT -5
Go for it. Hanging near a windshield may prompt small size and when necessary a hand to cushion the stone when you go over that cattleguard or speed bump. I drill and hang a fair number of translucent agates which become sun catchers in window, Christmas tree ornaments, chain pulls on ceiling fans and just about anything that can stand adornment. I recently met a lady who I only see once every few years and her first words were, I think of your rock work everyday because I had the agate slice you gave me hanging in my kitchen window --- clearly she liked it and viewed it often. So drill away and pass them around.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 30, 2019 10:32:52 GMT -5
Both systems solve a big problem for a wonderful saw with a crappy design for handling the sludge cleanup. Congratulations. Solving the innumerable mechanistic problems posed by lapidary processes is part of the fun of the discipline.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 23, 2019 10:36:37 GMT -5
If the oil is higher than the diamond zone on the bottom of your blade you are probably throwing too much oil, and making more mist than you need for the saws operation. JMHO Oil depth does effect mist production and general mess.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 21, 2019 6:47:00 GMT -5
Wood with that much color and such diverse patterns is always fun to cut. Every piece is unique. You need a new saw and a cab machine to make them prettier.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 18, 2019 15:45:40 GMT -5
In my experience a copper winemakers the best and most permanent mark for outlining reforms (an aluminum knitting needle is slightly less viable. Nothing works for an inadequate doming step better than an optimist hand lens on a dry cab. They are looking good.I .
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Post by Peruano on Nov 15, 2019 13:23:24 GMT -5
Whether you use leather or felt depends on the polish being used. Cromium oxide likes to go on as a dap of paste and works well with leather. Some say elk hide works better than cow because of the way it is tanned. Felt is best if you are using cerium oxide which takes a more liquid solution. The felt holds the polish better. Try a solution of cerium oxide in a spray bottle and keep your work wet on the felt. Both are more traditional approaches now often replaced with much more expensive diamond belt up to 50,000 grit. Zam ( cromium oxide in wax applied with a Muslim wheel works for a lot of stones).
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Post by Peruano on Nov 15, 2019 8:20:25 GMT -5
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Post by Peruano on Nov 10, 2019 7:17:08 GMT -5
thanks, I'll work on something like that. However I'll admit I rarely use that saw and then its always been hand held cuts. There are times when the vice would be useful.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2019 17:37:01 GMT -5
Lapidaryrough / Jack Cole Wow, the brass rod to raise the free end of the vice is a new one for me. I do see the small hole at the rear of the saw table which you say one end is inserted into, but bending it up behind the vice's rear edge doesn't seem to insure that it will stay straight. I presume the purpose is to reduce friction between the vice bottom and the saw table. Can you elaborate a bit more?
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Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2019 9:49:33 GMT -5
If no one replies to a query like yours, it means no one knows anything. You are mining info and may indeed stumble onto something that will bring sparkle to you rockhounding and lapidary pursuits. Keep us posted please.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 8, 2019 9:45:33 GMT -5
Sorry for the addon but I just noticed your saw is positioned in a wooden box with absorbent "clay". That is obviously to soak up/control spray from the saw and would be good to retain whether oil or water is used. I use "Oildry" an oil absorbent compound similar to kitty litter, but it keeps my shop floor oil free and hence my spouse happy that oil stays in the shop area.
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