demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 10, 2024 17:57:54 GMT -5
Thanks for your help on this. The 2.5” tensioner pulley does fit in the 1” arbor. The tensioner is definitely home made. With the smaller pulley in place I am at 5 minutes per inch. Maybe 1-1/16”. I feel like that is a good place to get started. I definitely want to cut agates, chert, jasper and jade. As it is now I have a 1725 RPM 1/2 hp 120 volt motor with a 2-1/2” drive pulley linked up to an 8” pulley on the arbor to turn the blade. The arbor has another 2-1/2” pulley driving a 5” pulley on the feed drive. BTW if you ever have trouble getting a pulley off of a rod sometimes heating the pulley up will make it slide right off. Works for stuck bolts too but you want to heat the female part.
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demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 10, 2024 18:05:01 GMT -5
According to a pulley calculator on the web my blade RPMs are about 540
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AzRockGeek
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2016
Posts: 703
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Post by AzRockGeek on Aug 10, 2024 18:21:31 GMT -5
I wonder if your power feed gears have been replaced with a different ratio. Here is a pic of a set I changed a while back, I amnot sure of the tooth count. The joys of buying a 50+ year old saw that has been altered. Sounds like you got it about figured out. Congrats and happy cutting.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 11, 2024 2:39:53 GMT -5
Here's my 18 and 14 FranTom saws.
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demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 11, 2024 16:08:56 GMT -5
Ooh neat Rockoonz. I might experiment with some different pulley set ups soon. What the diameter in the top pulley on your 18” saw? I cut a rock and it seems fine. I choose a funky piece of Serpentine as my first cut. It came out pretty good but there is definitely some room for improvement. The motor got a bit warm, not too hot to touch but maybe a little too hot to keep your hand held against it. It might just need to have air blown through it. I did put a little light oil in its oilers. I am using a 3/4” x 1” bushing that I drilled out from a 5/8” x 1” bushing I had. Still waiting for the good bushing to show up in the mail. The cheap Kingsley North blade I am using does have a ripple in it but it cuts good enough for now. Overall noise level is about the same as a laundry washer on spin cycle. Don’t need earplugs to work next to it in the garage but it isn’t exactly “stealth mode” either.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 11, 2024 17:35:14 GMT -5
demihuman I'll get you the dimensions of the pulleys when I make it to the shop next, I generally only stay till 100 degrees at the latest. Your blade will require a lower RPM though, sintered blades use a higher RPM. The Barranca speed chart is a good reference, but for 2 types of basically sintered blade. If you shoot for the lower end of the 201 column you should be good.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 11, 2024 17:38:22 GMT -5
Also, I like to use at least a 2" pulley on the motor, more surface contact makes for less slipping without having to run a lot of belt tension that wears bearings faster.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 13, 2024 19:00:32 GMT -5
demihuman motor pulley is 3" and arbor is 5.5", runs about 950 RPM. Right now it has an old school continuous rim saw blade, when/if I switch to a sintered blade I'll switch to a 3.5" on the motor, to get about 1100 RPM. On the FranTom that will also speed up the feed just a little.
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demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 13, 2024 19:44:37 GMT -5
Hmm, I need to buy some pulleys to experiment with. I was looking at some slabs I have that I didn’t cut and they are way smoother than mine. I have a couple of thing I need to work out first though.
I went into this old time (wood) saw shop today and was talking to the old timer there. He was saying he uses the cellophane from his cigarette pack (!) to shim saw blades for trueness. He said you could also use heavy paper or card stock sandwiched between the inside arbor plate and the blade too.
He definitely looked the part.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 13, 2024 20:01:23 GMT -5
I only use steel pulleys on saws, never aluminum, especially the lightweight die cast ones. I get them on Amazon. I have never shimmed the center of a blade to fix runout on the edge, I can see how it might work on some types of wood blades like dadoes, but a typical lapidary blade that isn't damaged can be trued enough in the saw, video below... When rolling the blade and checking, runout that is less than half the thickness of the blade is fine, centrifugal force will straighten it even more when spinning.
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Post by chris1956 on Aug 13, 2024 20:06:04 GMT -5
Ooh neat Rockoonz. I might experiment with some different pulley set ups soon. What the diameter in the top pulley on your 18” saw? I cut a rock and it seems fine. I choose a funky piece of Serpentine as my first cut. It came out pretty good but there is definitely some room for improvement. The motor got a bit warm, not too hot to touch but maybe a little too hot to keep your hand held against it. It might just need to have air blown through it. I did put a little light oil in its oilers. I am using a 3/4” x 1” bushing that I drilled out from a 5/8” x 1” bushing I had. Still waiting for the good bushing to show up in the mail. The cheap Kingsley North blade I am using does have a ripple in it but it cuts good enough for now. Overall noise level is about the same as a laundry washer on spin cycle. Don’t need earplugs to work next to it in the garage but it isn’t exactly “stealth mode” either. Glad to hear it is cutting rocks. How many hours do you think you have into it? In case I ever think of buying an old saw.
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demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 13, 2024 22:14:23 GMT -5
Probably about 20 hours total, and maybe $200-300 in parts bolts, grease etc. On a project like this I work pretty slow though. The bigger consideration for me is space. This saw has about a 3' x 3.5' footprint and must weigh close to 300 lbs. It needs to be level and where ever it finds a permanent home it will eventually splash mineral oil all over. Plus you have to clean it and filter the oil... Its a big responsibility!
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Post by chris1956 on Aug 14, 2024 7:15:56 GMT -5
Probably about 20 hours total, and maybe $200-300 in parts bolts, grease etc. On a project like this I work pretty slow though. The bigger consideration for me is space. This saw has about a 3' x 3.5' footprint and must weigh close to 300 lbs. It needs to be level and where ever it finds a permanent home it will eventually splash mineral oil all over. Plus you have to clean it and filter the oil... Its a big responsibility! You brought up some items to consider that I have encountered. I bought a newer 16" saw. It is probably not as heavy as yours but still heavy. Light enough that when I drain oil, I can put blocks under one side to help draining the oil. I noticed that it looks like you have put furniture pads under the legs. Currious how well that worked as far as movement. Even though my legs have adjustable feet to get even, my floor was so far off that I had to put wood shives under one side. I have mine on a concrete basement floor and the design of the unit keeps the oil mostly in the saw even when the top is open and the saw running (for short times). Only issue I have is opening the lid, you get a little drippage off the front. I usually have a couple of paper towels in front of the saw for that. I don't know if you have seen the old threads on filtering oil with brown paper bags. What worked for me is to take a five gallon pail and put a deeper plastic colander in the top. Then take two bags (one inside the other) and place that in the colandar. Then pour the oil into the bags. You can't add oil too much above the top of the colander. This is ok for me as I typically let the oil settle in plastic bottles and decant the oil before putting the remaining sludge in the paper bags so I don't have that much to deal with.
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Post by 1dave on Aug 14, 2024 8:18:50 GMT -5
Fran and Tom were a great team to provide toys for us rock nuts.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 14, 2024 9:53:01 GMT -5
Fran and Tom were a great team to provide toys for us rock nuts. Matt sphereguy has a wealth of information on how Fran the girl with her families rock shop met Tom the rockhound machinist and so on. I know that right now he has so many irons on the fire that it is not possible, but hope that one day a history can be compiled for those of us who are truly interested. I tagged him because I know he checks in periodically to see what's happening, and we have had many conversations in person.
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Post by 1dave on Aug 14, 2024 9:55:55 GMT -5
I would love to see some photos of them in action!
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johnthor1963
starting to spend too much on rocks
Cattle dogs rock
Member since June 2023
Posts: 236
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Post by johnthor1963 on Aug 14, 2024 20:11:17 GMT -5
Nice to see that you got a few rocks cut. Your project is really coming along, can’t wait to see what you can do when your all dialed in.
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demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 24, 2024 13:13:32 GMT -5
Update: I have the blade fairly straight, with about 1/16th of wobble on it. No where near the 1/1000 of inch that I would like, but I don’t think that is realistic for a $40 saw blade. I have done maybe 2 hours of cutting time and it seems like the cuts are getting smoother. I am using the Kingsley North notched rim economy diamond saw blade. This some local cherty jasper that is washed and dry. Let me know what you think!
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 24, 2024 14:35:26 GMT -5
1/16 ain't bad at all, centrifugal force may be flattening it right out. surface looks good, the little bit of dig in at end of cut where the nubbin pops off and the blade is only cutting on one side is normal.
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demihuman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2024
Posts: 131
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Post by demihuman on Aug 24, 2024 16:30:05 GMT -5
Here’s a more interesting rock.
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