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Post by chris1956 on Sept 18, 2024 15:12:29 GMT -5
chris1956 I took some pics yesterday with the intention of asking if the saw marks are too severe, but decided that I will buy a new blade anyway. It’s a lot more noticeable on transparent slabs than opaque ones, but the bowed blade is definitely leaving marks! Just can’t really tell when they are wet, and I often wipe faces with an oily rag when taking pics of rough 😆 btw, has anyone tried liquid Castile soap? Dr bronners strips such a ridiculous amount oil out of my hair and skin that I just can’t use it! Wondering if that would be a good option. I haven't been too worried about saw marks so maybe not the best person to ask. I haven't done much where I would polish a whole face like a thunderegg. When cabbing, it seems like the marks, although visible, are easily removed. Probably not the case when doing large surfaces. Also, I can't explain why, but when I first got my saw with a new blade the adjustment was terrible and there were large saw marks. I adjusted it but didn't seem to help much and then one day it was like it flexed or something and now it is almost perfect with very little movement of the saw. Still some saw marks but not bad for what I do. Someone else on here said their blade got better with age.
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cabby
freely admits to licking rocks
Wishing rocks weren’t so heavy…
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Post by cabby on Sept 18, 2024 15:15:13 GMT -5
Thanks, everyone! Sounds like the changes I need are better soap and/or longer in the “litter”. Will experiment with both of those and see what works best for me. Seriously didn’t expect to be having issues with this!
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cabby
freely admits to licking rocks
Wishing rocks weren’t so heavy…
Member since June 2024
Posts: 890
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Post by cabby on Sept 18, 2024 15:22:14 GMT -5
chris1956 the saw mark issue will probably go away when I get a new blade on, but was really a bummer after getting some slabs clean and dry since I was planning to sell those ones. It’s a pain but will probably end up doing a quick lap on one face for all the slabs I cut so far before I sell them. I would be rather disappointed if I bought slabs of a rare old stock material and saw these marks! I know it doesn’t really affect things but makes it LOOK lower quality. I’ve been using oil, running the saw slowest feed, making sure there isn’t the slightest slop in the vise… want clean cuts like everyone else gets but the stupid ever so slightly bent blade negates it all 🥺
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Post by chris1956 on Sept 18, 2024 15:24:00 GMT -5
chris1956 the saw mark issue will probably go away when I get a new blade on, but was really a bummer after getting some slabs clean and dry since I was planning to sell those ones. It’s a pain but will probably end up doing a quick lap on one face for all the slabs I cut so far before I sell them. I would be rather disappointed if I bought slabs of a rare old stock material and saw these marks! I know it doesn’t really affect things but makes it LOOK lower quality. I’ve been using oil, running the saw slowest feed, making sure there isn’t the slightest slop in the vise… want clean cuts like everyone else gets but the stupid ever so slightly bent blade negates it all 🥺 Yes, much more important if you are selling them. Do you know if there is a way to adjust your blade for your saw?
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cabby
freely admits to licking rocks
Wishing rocks weren’t so heavy…
Member since June 2024
Posts: 890
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Post by cabby on Sept 18, 2024 16:17:08 GMT -5
The way these old saws were built allows me to adjust or modify pretty much anything I want. On the other hand, nothing is EASY to adjust lol. Basically have to take apart and replace pieces to make changes. Sadly, no easy adjustments for the sled either. Hopefully replacing the blade and the bent pulley will fix all of my cut issues!
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Post by whalecottagedesigns on Sept 18, 2024 22:13:50 GMT -5
I am also interested in this post, I have some punky Pietersite (has cracks and fissures and was not silicified perfectly, it breaks up a bit along the blue asbestos/Riebeckite/crocidolite fibres when I try to cut a cab) that a lovely gentleman called Rocky cut up for me, but it is full of oil, and I need to absolutely clear out every molecule of oil as I am going to try and stabilize it with Cactus Juice under vacuum. BUT, the Cactus Juice absolutely and totally hates any oil anywhere in the rock. I am thinking of boiling in dishwater soap, then hitting it with an ultrasonic cleaner with degreaser. Then hitting with clean water and ultrasonic to get rid of degreaser. Then I have to make sure it is dry as a bone too, as again, Cactus Juice also absolutely and totally hates water! Massive mission, but the material is precious..
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Post by Rockoonz on Sept 18, 2024 23:52:08 GMT -5
I am also interested in this post, I have some punky Pietersite (has cracks and fissures and was not silicified perfectly, it breaks up a bit along the blue asbestos/Riebeckite/crocidolite fibres when I try to cut a cab) that a lovely gentleman called Rocky cut up for me, but it is full of oil, and I need to absolutely clear out every molecule of oil as I am going to try and stabilize it with Cactus Juice under vacuum. BUT, the Cactus Juice absolutely and totally hates any oil anywhere in the rock. I am thinking of boiling in dishwater soap, then hitting it with an ultrasonic cleaner with degreaser. Then hitting with clean water and ultrasonic to get rid of degreaser. Then I have to make sure it is dry as a bone too, as again, Cactus Juice also absolutely and totally hates water! Massive mission, but the material is precious.. The only way to truly remove all the oil and moisture is to burn it off with heat, but I'm not sure how much heat it takes to also possibly change the color. If the pietersite is safe at around 300F a long bake will just leave a little soot. Maybe instead use acetone or isopropyl alcohol to degrease, followed with an aqueous degreaser, a major rinse, and then like around 200F to dry it out completely.
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Post by whalecottagedesigns on Sept 19, 2024 0:09:01 GMT -5
Thank you for the suggestions! I do know Pietersite will act like Tiger's eye does as it is basically brecciated Tiger's eye, and will likely change colour, so will be wary of too much heat. I think you make red Tiger's eye by applying 300 degrees to normal Tiger's eye (cannot remember if that was Celsius or Fahrenheit).
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