rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 1, 2024 14:27:08 GMT -5
 I humbly submit this question to the hive mind in hopes for some guidance What you see here is a "Lil Giant" 1/70HP swamp cooler pump which is working it's hardest to cool a 14" Highland Park HTD Drop Saw. When the oil is clean, it pumps somewhat well but when the oil gets slightly used you have to "encourage it" in order to have start to coat the sawblade. Encouraging it means reseating the pump, fiddling with the tubing as it is and placing the outlets 1mm away from the blade in order for it to get to cooling it. Since Highland Park doesn't stock their own pump solution too often, I'm stuck making my own solution. Right now I have it going through a nightmarish blend of reducers to go from a 5/8 ID tube from the pump to a 4mm (1/4" OD) push to connect hose that Highland Park built into their system. I'm under the impression there has got to be a better way to get the current system to pump more efficiently into smaller tubing but my knowledge of these systems is "paint myself into the corner" level right now. I could also replace it with the stronger 1/50hp pump but the current pump seems to be working well, just fighting gravity through too thick of tubing. All the reducers I'm using are barbed, is there a way I can reduce it quicker using some compression fittings and then do a last reduction to the 4mm that HP provided with their system. Or am I just trying to push this pump too hard? The pump model is "Little Giant CP1-115 1/70 HP, 115/127 Volt, 307 GPH, Evaporative Cooler Pump". Maybe the oil is too much for the little fellow. What say ye of more engineering knowledge? - Rob |
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Mark K
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Post by Mark K on Oct 1, 2024 14:54:05 GMT -5
let it run without the 4mm stuff.
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 1, 2024 15:01:46 GMT -5
let it run without the 4mm stuff. I would have to drill a new hole for the coolant to get to the blade, something I could do but seems kinda drastic. The 4 mm stuff goes into a T splitter which then has each resulting tube go into the blade cover on each side of the blade. If I were to go with another method like you mention.... hmm.  |
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 1, 2024 17:26:19 GMT -5
Every reducer is a choke point, I would see if you have a tubing size with an ID that matches your 4mm OD, reduce to that as close to the blade as possible, and use a good rtv glue on the 4mm tube, slide it into the larger tube so you eliminate the reduser to 4mm that will have a less than 4mm ID.
If that doesn't work go larger all the way to the blade.
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 1, 2024 17:27:22 GMT -5
And make sure the pump pickup is a little above the bottom of the sump so it picks up less mud.
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 1, 2024 18:09:57 GMT -5
And make sure the pump pickup is a little above the bottom of the sump so it picks up less mud. Thank you for this! 4mm is super close to 1/4 so in theory a tube with a 1/4 ID should do that. I'll give it a go. For some reason I have a crazy amount of 3/8th tubing so that should be an interesting experiment. You wouldn't happen to have any links to sites that talk about this stuff on the regular would you? Youtube is full of computer coolant system tutorials with no mention on what thought goes into it. - Rob |
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Mark K
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Posts: 2,818
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Post by Mark K on Oct 1, 2024 18:42:38 GMT -5
let it run without the 4mm stuff. I would have to drill a new hole for the coolant to get to the blade, something I could do but seems kinda drastic. The 4 mm stuff goes into a T splitter which then has each resulting tube go into the blade cover on each side of the blade. If I were to go with another method like you mention.... hmm. No you wouldn't. Try running a new line from the pump to the blade with just the slightly larger line. Then zip tie the terminal end in place so it hits the spot you desire. AND pick it up like Rockoonz says. Disclaimer. I can't see the pic well because the headache sparklies are preventing me from seeing in front of me. So, if this is not possible in your case, it is the sparklies' fault. |
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 1, 2024 19:29:40 GMT -5
I would have to drill a new hole for the coolant to get to the blade, something I could do but seems kinda drastic. The 4 mm stuff goes into a T splitter which then has each resulting tube go into the blade cover on each side of the blade. If I were to go with another method like you mention.... hmm. No you wouldn't. Try running a new line from the pump to the blade with just the slightly larger line. Then zip tie the terminal end in place so it hits the spot you desire. AND pick it up like Rockoonz says. Disclaimer. I can't see the pic well because the headache sparklies are preventing me from seeing in front of me. So, if this is not possible in your case, it is the sparklies' fault. I'll take a pic of the top of the saw when I get back home from dinner and you can see what they've got going into the blade. - Rob |
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 1, 2024 19:42:29 GMT -5
I was able to sneak away and snap a pic before we left  .  |
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Mark K
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Posts: 2,818
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Post by Mark K on Oct 1, 2024 22:36:04 GMT -5
Go to 2:25 and listen to the sump idea. That is what popped into my head and when I started to research it, it was already an idea that apparently is proven. I think that if you used extra oilo and kept the sump full, and the pump high in the oil sump, you would be pumping cleaner oil and maybe find a solution.
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 2, 2024 12:33:00 GMT -5
Go to 2:25 and listen to the sump idea. That is what popped into my head and when I started to research it, it was already an idea that apparently is proven. I think that if you used extra oilo and kept the sump full, and the pump high in the oil sump, you would be pumping cleaner oil and maybe find a solution. Hmm, I would have to modify my rolling stand for it to add a sump tank underneath it (right now it's self contained within the basin of the saw). I see what they have set up behind it and that looks like a good solution too. Like perhaps running a 3/4 OD line to a section of PVC mounted behind the saw via barb/female compression setting and drilling a 4mm outlet from that pipe that runs straight to the saw. Then the drain can easily be out from the back of the saw back down to the sump tank. That could also save on the amount of oil needed to cool the saw. I'm using about 3 gallons right now inside that saw basin. Does that sound right to you Mark K ? - Rob My VERY CRUDE drawing.  |
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,818
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Post by Mark K on Oct 2, 2024 14:34:57 GMT -5
yes
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 2, 2024 23:22:38 GMT -5
rocknrob with a tank below like that you can have a baffle or two where the oil will drain into a tub that overflows into the one with the pump, leaving most of the solids in the bottom of the first tank, I think a 3 chamber tank works best.
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Post by chris1956 on Oct 3, 2024 7:42:42 GMT -5
Go to 2:25 and listen to the sump idea. That is what popped into my head and when I started to research it, it was already an idea that apparently is proven. I think that if you used extra oilo and kept the sump full, and the pump high in the oil sump, you would be pumping cleaner oil and maybe find a solution. Hmm, I would have to modify my rolling stand for it to add a sump tank underneath it (right now it's self contained within the basin of the saw). I see what they have set up behind it and that looks like a good solution too. Like perhaps running a 3/4 OD line to a section of PVC mounted behind the saw via barb/female compression setting and drilling a 4mm outlet from that pipe that runs straight to the saw. Then the drain can easily be out from the back of the saw back down to the sump tank. That could also save on the amount of oil needed to cool the saw. I'm using about 3 gallons right now inside that saw basin. Does that sound right to you Mark K ? - Rob My VERY CRUDE drawing. This is kind of what I was thinking of but couldn't put in words or on paper. Like the baffle idea too and it gives you the ability to make the reservoir as deep as you want to be able to mount the pump intake higher. |
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 3, 2024 11:24:39 GMT -5
Hmm, I would have to modify my rolling stand for it to add a sump tank underneath it (right now it's self contained within the basin of the saw). I see what they have set up behind it and that looks like a good solution too. Like perhaps running a 3/4 OD line to a section of PVC mounted behind the saw via barb/female compression setting and drilling a 4mm outlet from that pipe that runs straight to the saw. Then the drain can easily be out from the back of the saw back down to the sump tank. That could also save on the amount of oil needed to cool the saw. I'm using about 3 gallons right now inside that saw basin. Does that sound right to you Mark K ? - Rob My VERY CRUDE drawing. This is kind of what I was thinking of but couldn't put in words or on paper. Like the baffle idea too and it gives you the ability to make the reservoir as deep as you want to be able to mount the pump intake higher. I LOVE this Baffle Idea from Rockoonz, basically in my case it will be a series of totes or basins. It should also really reduce how much oil I need to operate this saw at any given time and make cleanup a snap... well the oil cleanup. The saw will still be a gooey/snotty mess at the end of the day.  |
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Mark K
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Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,818
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Post by Mark K on Oct 3, 2024 15:23:12 GMT -5
If the saw is draining down to the reservoirs, it will be quite clean compared to what you think. Most of the snot will wash down into the first reservoir.
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 3, 2024 16:55:09 GMT -5
This is kind of what I was thinking of but couldn't put in words or on paper. Like the baffle idea too and it gives you the ability to make the reservoir as deep as you want to be able to mount the pump intake higher. I LOVE this Baffle Idea from Rockoonz, basically in my case it will be a series of totes or basins. It should also really reduce how much oil I need to operate this saw at any given time and make cleanup a snap... well the oil cleanup. The saw will still be a gooey/snotty mess at the end of the day. Cheap plastic stuff you can just dispose of when it becomes unservicable isn't a bad idea, buck and a quarter tree (formerly dollar tree) comes to mind, maybe a couple of whatever size you use for stage 1 so you can switch them out and let the sludge settle out before cleaning and keep cutting, but good to get shapes that are easy to clean out when needed. |
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 6, 2024 19:55:45 GMT -5
It's already working much better, I just need to get a different size drain attachment for it. I thought it was 1" when it was actually 3/4". The pump part works flawlessly now, super efficient with 70 viscosity mineral oil... and my hands feel oh so soft now  |
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rocknrob
has rocks in the head
If Costco only sold slabs in bulk...
Member since May 2024
Posts: 611
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Post by rocknrob on Oct 7, 2024 13:11:46 GMT -5
Here is the new setup for the drop saw, the oil is actually pretty clean at the moment as the saw hasn't been in use for 2 months. I have it tilted slightly towards the drain by using flooring wedge spacers to lift it on the opposite sides. 5/8 ID reducer to 1/8 ID. TBH it probably doesn't need to have such a long 1/8 ID tube, I could run the 5/8th almost to the splitter and have better pressure at the blade but it's sufficient.  3/4 reduced to 1/2" 90 degree elbow and barb at the bottom for drainage.  And finally, the new home of the pump/baffle (basin) system. It circulates nicely!  All in all, it works really well. Thank you all for the help, it really does reduce how much oil I need to use to operate this saw. - Rob |
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,818
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Post by Mark K on Oct 7, 2024 18:28:18 GMT -5
I had faith in you.
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