hope
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2008
Posts: 477
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Post by hope on Aug 3, 2010 22:04:11 GMT -5
I am sure these questions have been asked before, but a quick search did not reveal where.
1) I have a blade that is dished and when you push on it, it springs back. Can this be fixed?
2) My 18 inch saw is cutting slabs that have ridges in them. What would be the most probable cause of not getting nice, smooth slabs?
3) What kind of blade and where to buy a new 18inch blade for my covington saw?
Thanks All, Hope
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Post by tkrueger3 on Aug 3, 2010 23:10:56 GMT -5
Hope, I am real, REAL new to slab saws - had mine 2 weeks now, but I've learned a couple things. First, you can try to "un-dish" the blade like I did. I bought a 2'X2' piece of what passes for 3/4" plywood these days from the local Home Depot. Put it on the floor or something really solid and flat. Laid the blade on it, found the high spots, then took a short piece of 2"X2" wood and stood it on end at the high spots. Then banged the other end of the 2X2 with a hammer. Some judicious use of force and frequent checking, and I got almost all of the warp out of the blade. Second, I believe the ridges might be due to the wobble in the blade. Stuff I'm cutting has ridges like this: And I'm convinced it's the little blade wobble. When I win the lottery, I'll get a new blade ..... ;D I think the answer to your 3rd question is - whatever kind of blade fits your budget and still cuts slabs well. Several on eBay of late, for example, that are relatively inexpensive. I hope this helps, Hope (OMG! A pun!). I also hope some of the experts chime in and give you better info than what I can supply. Tom PS - mine's an ancient Royal 18", and I love it except for the blade.
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Post by Woodyrock on Aug 4, 2010 1:15:53 GMT -5
Hope: Look in the your local yellow pages for a saw shop. Most good saw shop still have a saw doctor that can hammer the tension back into your blade. This will take the dish out. For a new blade, Johns Gems here on the forum is a good place for lapidary blades. Woody
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Aug 4, 2010 11:13:10 GMT -5
Too fast of a rock feed can attribute to the ridges also.
there are a bunch of saw blade repair services on the net, but none specifically for diamond blades, a couple phone calls may prove fruitful.
Dr Joe
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Aug 4, 2010 12:51:48 GMT -5
I tried to reset the tension on a 10" blade and actually made it worse, so I'm not a good one to ask.
Kingsley North (www.kingsleynorth.com) has a good selection of blades, including a house brand that is relatively inexpensive (but I don't know how good they are). John (JS Gems) will likely beat their prices on MK Diamond blades and provides excellent service.
Chuck
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 4, 2010 13:07:46 GMT -5
I'm just getting ready to order a MK BD-303S segmented blade for my 16" saw. The power feed on some slab saws runs too fast for continuous, and most notched rim blades. The green blade that came with my new Covington being a perfect example. Had a friend who was great at un- dishing blades. Did it all on a steel table with a ball peen hammer. Unfortunately he's digging in that big rock pile in the sky now. Those old timers who knew how to straighten blades are few and far between now. Don
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Post by stonesthatrock on Aug 4, 2010 18:16:51 GMT -5
i used to get my blades from www.lopacki.com/. good price and they lastest as long as any others. yes they are chinese.... But i go threw too many blades to spend big money on one blade. As for straightening them, tony is the "MAN" we tried it but didn't work out good. mary ann
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hope
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2008
Posts: 477
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Post by hope on Aug 6, 2010 20:02:23 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone that replied. It is always nice to hear from the folks on this board.
Hope
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 7, 2010 11:35:15 GMT -5
The older notched rim blades were made of mild steel to allow rolling the notches in and folding over. The blades were tempered in a furnace which also fused the diamond mixture into the blade. When these blades dish they lose tension and are not fixable without retempering in a furnace. You can hammer out dings, etc. I have a contact for blade repairs in the Northwest but don't know what they charge.
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 7, 2010 12:17:14 GMT -5
Consider yourself fortunate. You can at least buy blades for your saw. I have a very old faceters saw that takes a very thin, 3" copper notched rim blade. Try finding a blade for something like that.I've only found one place that makes them. They're out of memory steel, and very expensive. Don
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redrummd
starting to shine!
Member since July 2009
Posts: 38
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Post by redrummd on Aug 9, 2010 22:30:12 GMT -5
For repair to run as good or better than new:
Puget Sound Saw 9823 160th St E Puyallup WA 98375
253-845 9629
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 10, 2010 8:38:48 GMT -5
The ompany I heard of:
Carbide Saw 4040 S.E. Division St. Portland, OR 97202 800-760-2260 503-235-2260
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Aug 11, 2010 17:03:17 GMT -5
Hope- I bought 2 18" blades from johnjsgems a few years back and both are still serving me well, he was very helpful in choosing which blades, pricing was very competitive, and it was an all around great transaction.
You should also take a good hard look at the arbor for your "ridges" problem, if the arbor is slightly bent, even a straight saw blade will appear to wobble which will result in that effect
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