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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 17, 2012 12:00:08 GMT -5
I think the 303C or 301 lapidary blades would work for you. They are rated at about 2800 max but BD uses the 10" 301 on their 3450 rpm saw which is rated about 2500. Only problem I have using the 10" is the blade dulls faster than normal so requires more frequent dressing.
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Minnesota Daniel
freely admits to licking rocks
A COUPLE LAKERS
Member since August 2011
Posts: 891
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Feb 18, 2012 13:52:43 GMT -5
Barranca will have a 303C 7" .040" this Spring. I've heard this -- welcome news. With an overhead blade, I've modified my saw so that I can add a high density plastic cutting board on top of the table, allowing me to use a 6" blade. I use one that is .032" and made to be cooled with water. I only use it for softer rocks. I have a question though, my MK-170 turns at 5500 rpm, pretty high for a rock saw I think. I imagine there is a good reason lapidary saws turn slower. Do I need to do anything differently than I would with a true rock saw? |
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 18, 2012 15:21:06 GMT -5
the blade may wear faster (or glaze up sooner) at that speed. it is above the rated RPM range. I would be sure to keep it dressed.
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 23, 2012 13:40:15 GMT -5
Hi Helen - Did you work out all your questions? Like I said above, we can give mroe specific advice if we know the size, shape, and value of the boulder opal you plan to cut. Also, whether you will mainly slab, trim, or both.
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Post by helens on Feb 23, 2012 13:59:04 GMT -5
Hi Daniel:). Thanks for asking:). I am waiting on the new water pump for the tile saw I ordered to get here. Since I've got the flu, I've been staying away from rocks (and hanging around the forums excessively O.O). Funny story... that day we did try the tile saw, the water pump kept going in and out... so we got a few good lungfuls of dust. Well, I'd been doing a little bit of sniffling and had scratchy throat that day, but after that, I started feeling worse, and decided it was the rock dust from the saw. BECAUSE of that, none of us went to see the Doctor til it was too late to get Tamiflu... so my whole family came down with the full blown flu. We are all WAY better now, since flu runs its course in 7-10 days.
BUT! We are still going to wait for that water pump, then drag the saw outside to the backyard, before we try it again:P. I figure I will have the pump by this weekend (hope it fits!!!), and hopefully will have some pix to show of my efforts next week:).
The boulder opal I wanted to cut was Roy's 2.5 pounder that he posted in the sales section. I bought/traded for it... but since you ask, what do you think WOULD be the best way to cut such a thing? With the grain? Against the grain? I think either way, I need to get another blade, but first things first, I have a lot of rocks to cut that I can use the current blade for, and I want to make sure the tile saw works before I go buy a blade just for the opal. Then, there's the other thought that maybe I don't want to cut the opal at all, since it's such a neat looking rock by itself... (I know, I know, I need to do some cutting/polishing... LOL!)
Helen
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 23, 2012 15:36:01 GMT -5
If it is a big enough piece you can polish the face and keep it as a specimen. The Barranca wet polisher to contour polish it would cost a lot more than a blade though.
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 24, 2012 0:40:23 GMT -5
2.5lb is a good size for this. not too small that the blade would waste too much. Not to big that an 8" blade cant handle it.
the direction of cut may be decided initially by the dimensions of the rock. You only get about 2.5" depth. Less if you rig a clamp that uses some of the depth.
Eventually you want to cut along veins to expose max opal. You might need to make several smaller chunks that can be rotated to an ideal angle, and then slab those chunks.
if there are any clusters of small veins, you want to cut across those because it makes fo rnice patterns. You will need to let the stone guide you.
I agree that cutting other rocks first with existing blade is a good idea. It might be good to get some rhyolite because that is closer to tile. there are some nice rhyolites right now.
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Post by helens on Feb 24, 2012 0:53:42 GMT -5
John and Daniel, thank you both for the suggestions.
John, when I get the saw sorted out, I will definitely be talking to you about blades. I am still in the preliminaries of deciding exactly what I want to do (cutting? carving? cabbing? Or acquiring other people's work to add to my line). And what I want to do it with? (buy a 'real' saw? buy a grinder? keep using the equipment at the rock club?). And what I am best at doing (that will take the most time). I tend to take forever planning and gathering information and materials, then once planning and decisionmaking is complete, execute quickly.
You guys are such a wealth of knowledge! I keep feeling like I wish there were more I could contribute to, other than oohing and ahhing at all the great info and photos!
I planned to bug Jason about some rhyolite too once I get over this flu:). Am such a sucker for picture rocks:).
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Minnesota Daniel
freely admits to licking rocks
A COUPLE LAKERS
Member since August 2011
Posts: 891
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Feb 24, 2012 23:46:32 GMT -5
Something you might check out is used tile saws on Craigslist. I live in a big city, and here there are always tile saws for sale that claim to have been used only to remodel a kitchen or bath. That sounds legit and the pic is usually consistent with that. You can go look at it to confirm of course. My point is that I have seen what looked like very clean, lightly used Workforce Tile saws for as little as $30. As long as it works when it's turned on, and the blade doesn't wobble etc., that would seem like a pretty cost effective way to see if a saw is something you want to use. If it isn't, sell it on Craigslist yourself.
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Feb 25, 2012 0:52:13 GMT -5
I was glancing through the new Kingsley catolog and saw a 7" lapidary blade for about $45-50. Forget what thickness it was.
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