Tex
starting to shine!
Member since December 2011
Posts: 27
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Post by Tex on Mar 10, 2012 11:51:17 GMT -5
Just wanting to know the difference in Highland Park saws. I see there are models called R1,S,U,SS and M2. Really interested in knowing difference between M2 14 inch and others.
Thanks Tex
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 10, 2012 12:37:42 GMT -5
The difference is the size of the saw. From what I've seen it seems that the M2 designation simply meant a slab saw with a steel lid produced over a certain year range. I have seem M2 on 14's, 16's and 18's, so the number has nothing to do with blade size, seemingly. M3 indicates a deluxe saw with the clear lid and supposedly a stainless tub.
The U appears to be a 24 inch saw
SS probably means stainless steel, but who knows.
R1 is a 20 incher? Or maybe a later or earlier model? My R1 was a Yamaha Gran Prix motorcycle, didn't cut rocks worth a darn.
Lee
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NDK
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Mar 12, 2012 9:42:54 GMT -5
LOL Lee, but I bet that R1 sure cut corners!
Sorry for the off topic response, Tex.
Nate
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Post by Woodyrock on Mar 13, 2012 1:31:24 GMT -5
Tex:
B-10, and B-12 are 10", and attach to cab units.E-4 is 9", E-2, and E-5 are 10", E-70 is 6"F-1 is 6"
M-2, and M-3 are 12"/14", M4, and M5 are 14", J2 is 16"/18" R models are all 20" U is 24", and U1 is 36", so, the letter designator sort of indicates size.
Woody
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ADHD
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2017
Posts: 12 
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Post by ADHD on Mar 2, 2019 13:23:25 GMT -5
I just bought an old Highland Park M-2 off a retired fellow giving up his rock hobby. He said it is a 12" slab saw. I haven't torn into it yet and was on the forum looking for more details. Ran across Woodyrock's post and was wondering if I could put a 14" blade on the M-2. I just started hitting it with engine cleaner to start removing years of oil and grease all over the inside and outside. Once I can get it where I can work on it without looking like the pit guy at my local oil change place I will check the bearings, feed , etc. The blade is ok and still has a lot of diamond but if I can move to a larger blade in the future that would be an extra nice benefit.
The lid is bent in pretty bad, was thinking I might cut into it and install a piece of plexiglass. Anyone tried that?
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Post by pauls on Mar 2, 2019 15:31:59 GMT -5
The lid is bent in pretty bad, was thinking I might cut into it and install a piece of plexiglass. Anyone tried that? Yep, Me. Make a complete acrylic lid. Lighter and nice to be able to see what's happening. Plexiglass is easy to work with, cut your sheets on a wood table saw with a fine sharp blade and a slow feed rate to prevent chipping. SCIGRIP Weldon is the glue you need to stick the acrylic. make up some jigs to hold your pieces while you glue them. Run a bead of glue then move your piece into position and don't move it again otherwise you will get air bubbles in your joint and weaken it. simple, don't be tempted to hold it with screws they tend to pull the sheet in and make a messy job. Once you have made your box shape you can add a few fillets in the corners for strength if you like. The Scigrip glue really does give a welded joint as strong as the original sheet, it's great stuff. |
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Post by Peruano on Mar 2, 2019 19:38:46 GMT -5
Highland Park was fast and loose with their model numbers. I have a slab saw clearly marked as B12 which I'm running with a 14" blade but based on measurements of the arbor could handle a 16" blade. It is a table top saw (no stand) b
and has flanges for attaching it to abench top but there is a typical slab saw. It's a vintage steel tank saw but came to me without a top. Go figure it's model number.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 27, 2019 14:48:25 GMT -5
Most of their saws took two blade sizes (12/14, 14/16, etc.). Just measure space. With larger option blade almost touches back wall and is close to bottom. one inch vertical increae (except 20/24) but you loose one inch horizontally.
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