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Post by orrum on Jul 12, 2016 7:50:32 GMT -5
Harbor freight has work benches thst have a light and a receptacle already wired in!!! It would b perfect!##
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Deleted
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Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2016 10:04:26 GMT -5
Harbor freight has work benches thst have a light and a receptacle already wired in!!! It would b perfect!## Naw, Chuck is going to build real furniture. Patiently awaiting his build.... Harbor Freight?? OMG......
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 12, 2016 10:30:06 GMT -5
Harbor freight has work benches thst have a light and a receptacle already wired in!!! It would b perfect!## Naw, Chuck is going to build real furniture. Patiently awaiting his build.... Harbor Freight?? OMG...... The harbor freight one was worth looking at for reference. I like the pegboard and I like the idea of a built in light. I have to see how this plays out before investing time and material to a work station. Chuck
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Jul 12, 2016 12:15:52 GMT -5
A dedicated bench would probably be a nice wire wrapping station also. Nice work on the smithing too, Chuck.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 12, 2016 12:17:59 GMT -5
The pieces look great! Not many progress this quickly, and as they say, "If it was easy, everyone would do it" What gauge bezel are you using? I prefer 26-28 ga over the thinner 32 and have no difficulty rolling it over the edges of the stone. Many people use a hand held ring clamp when rolling the bezel, but I prefer to put the ring over the tip of my left index finger when setting the stone. There is no right or wrong way, just whatever works for the person doing the setting. wish you could spend a few days hanging out with me at the shop in Branson If you do build a bench, make it larger than the one you posted. front to back depth might be ok, but the more work area you can get on the top, the better. The desk mod Scott posted would be better, but I wouldn't make the cut so deep. 8 to 10 inches deep and 30 inches wide would be about right. Thanks radio . Spending a few hours with someone with experience would probably be best but advise here on RTH has got me this far. I used 28 gauge fine silver bezel wire. The problem could very well have to do with the girdle on the cabs. All of my cabs have always been cut for wire wrapping so girdles walls are 90 degrees to the back plate. I think I may have been trying to push over a very small area. With my common 2-3 mm straight wall cabs it would be like pushing over this bezel I like this idea but it would be impossible to hold a girdle this perfect all the way around and it would look horrible if the girdle height was not even. [/a] I searched the web and came up with this so maybe I will try to make a cab with a girdle/dome like this. [/a] So what kind of girdle/dome do you all prefer on your cabs? Chuck
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2016 12:54:22 GMT -5
I learned at my local club/class that that angle is easily set.
The cab is set on a block of wood. The height of the wood positioned such that the stone touches the wheel just above or below midline.
Then simply grind the circumference.
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meviva
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Member since July 2013
Posts: 1,474
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Post by meviva on Jul 12, 2016 12:55:59 GMT -5
When I took a cab class last year the teacher taught us to make them like the one in the third example when it's to be used in a bezel setting. The second one does look like it would be very nice.
Andrea
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 12, 2016 13:08:54 GMT -5
I learned at my local club/class that that angle is easily set. The cab is set on a block of wood. The height of the wood positioned such that the stone touches the wheel just above or below midline. Then simply grind the circumference. Angle is pretty easily attained but if you grind a little too much (heavy) in one area then that spot of the wall becomes taller and the bezel wire will not look right. It is holding an exact height at that angle that would be difficult. These are all things that have never meant anything to me in the past. Wire wrapping and groove wrapping are very forgiving. Chuck
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meviva
Cave Dweller
Member since July 2013
Posts: 1,474
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Post by meviva on Jul 12, 2016 13:08:59 GMT -5
I learned at my local club/class that that angle is easily set. The cab is set on a block of wood. The height of the wood positioned such that the stone touches the wheel just above or below midline. Then simply grind the circumference. Now I remember after reading what Scott wrote. That plastic stand thing that comes with the Genie is what makes the angle for the third example, and might be able to be used for the second. You put the plastic stand up to the first wheel as close as you can without hitting it. Then place the cab preform (before dopping) upside down on the stand and continually turn it back and forth and around until the angle is all the way to the bottom of the cab (which is the top of it in this position). I'll try and add a pic. Andrea
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 12, 2016 13:11:27 GMT -5
I learned at my local club/class that that angle is easily set. The cab is set on a block of wood. The height of the wood positioned such that the stone touches the wheel just above or below midline. Then simply grind the circumference. They make a gadget for the genie but anything will work. Chuck
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 12, 2016 13:12:20 GMT -5
I learned at my local club/class that that angle is easily set. The cab is set on a block of wood. The height of the wood positioned such that the stone touches the wheel just above or below midline. Then simply grind the circumference. Now I remember after reading what Scott wrote. That plastic stand thing that comes with the Genie is what makes the angle for the third example, and might be able to be used for the second. You put the plastic stand up to the first wheel as close as you can without hitting it. Then place the cab preform (before dopping) upside down on the stand and continually turn it back and forth and around until the angle is all the way to the bottom of the cab (which is the top of it in this position). I'll try and add a pic. Andrea we typed at the same time. I included a picture
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meviva
Cave Dweller
Member since July 2013
Posts: 1,474
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Post by meviva on Jul 12, 2016 13:33:00 GMT -5
we typed at the same time. I included a picture Yes that's the thing. When I first got the Genie I didn't know what it was for so I put it on its side and used it to hold the cabs on dopsticks....lol. I told my teacher and he just laughed. Andrea
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Post by radio on Jul 12, 2016 16:44:29 GMT -5
The pieces look great! Not many progress this quickly, and as they say, "If it was easy, everyone would do it" What gauge bezel are you using? I prefer 26-28 ga over the thinner 32 and have no difficulty rolling it over the edges of the stone. Many people use a hand held ring clamp when rolling the bezel, but I prefer to put the ring over the tip of my left index finger when setting the stone. There is no right or wrong way, just whatever works for the person doing the setting. wish you could spend a few days hanging out with me at the shop in Branson If you do build a bench, make it larger than the one you posted. front to back depth might be ok, but the more work area you can get on the top, the better. The desk mod Scott posted would be better, but I wouldn't make the cut so deep. 8 to 10 inches deep and 30 inches wide would be about right. Thanks radio . Spending a few hours with someone with experience would probably be best but advise here on RTH has got me this far. I used 28 gauge fine silver bezel wire. The problem could very well have to do with the girdle on the cabs. All of my cabs have always been cut for wire wrapping so girdles walls are 90 degrees to the back plate. I think I may have been trying to push over a very small area. With my common 2-3 mm straight wall cabs it would be like pushing over this bezel I like this idea but it would be impossible to hold a girdle this perfect all the way around and it would look horrible if the girdle height was not even. [/a] I searched the web and came up with this so maybe I will try to make a cab with a girdle/dome like this. [/a] So what kind of girdle/dome do you all prefer on your cabs? Chuck[/quote] Well, just plan a vacation in Branson one of these days :-) I much prefer a straight walled cab as opposed to angled or domed almost to the base. Depending on the stone to be set, I sometimes will soften the top edge just a smidge, but not often. A tall bezel just looks much better to me when it is true vertical and just enough rolled over to hold the stone. Most cabs I cut have roughly a 3 mm girdle and I almost exclusively use 3/16 bezel
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tomcloss
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since October 2008
Posts: 158
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Post by tomcloss on Jul 12, 2016 16:50:58 GMT -5
Chuck, I see you started Silver Smithing. I was going to suggest to undercut the Cab. But it looks like you may have figured it out. If you are planning to spend more than $600 to build a bench give me a call I know where you might be able to get one new already built. Don't forget a spot for a bench pin and mandrel holder.
Tom
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 12, 2016 18:57:16 GMT -5
Chuck, I see you started Silver Smithing. I was going to suggest to undercut the Cab. But it looks like you may have figured it out. If you are planning to spend more than $600 to build a bench give me a call I know where you might be able to get one new already built. Don't forget a spot for a bench pin and mandrel holder. Tom Thanks tomcloss - I just blew all my rock hobby profits on the equipment to get going so no budget for a real desk. I just know if I continue I have to have a dedicated area for it. Right now I am setup in the garage on my woodworking bench and it is just a mess. It drives me crazy not being organized. I thought about getting a hold of you but for some reason I was thinking you were more into silver casting. Chuck
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tomcloss
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since October 2008
Posts: 158
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Post by tomcloss on Jul 12, 2016 23:06:22 GMT -5
I started with smithing and truth be told I do more smithing than casting. Call me anytime. I make over to that side of town at least once a month.
Tom
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icatz
spending too much on rocks
Member since October 2015
Posts: 453
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Post by icatz on Jul 13, 2016 6:28:26 GMT -5
Great beginning stuff. Doesn't have to be fancy to be great. Sometimes simple is more desirable. That ring, for example, has such a great stone you wouldn't want the metal to take the focus. And there are easy small things you can do to spiff them up. Notches in the bezel, texturing the band, etc. Keep going, you're inspiring me to start up again. I've taken a long break to pursue other types of jewelry making. Chain maille was becoming obsessive for awhile and now there's polymer clay and resin stuff....
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jul 13, 2016 6:47:00 GMT -5
Well, just plan a vacation in Branson one of these days :-) I much prefer a straight walled cab as opposed to angled or domed almost to the base. Depending on the stone to be set, I sometimes will soften the top edge just a smidge, but not often. A tall bezel just looks much better to me when it is true vertical and just enough rolled over to hold the stone. Most cabs I cut have roughly a 3 mm girdle and I almost exclusively use 3/16 bezel That is very helpful. I think my issue was using a cab with a 2mm girdle and only using 3mm bezel wire. It is very difficult to bend the metal with so little to work with. I guess I was shooting for minimal metal covering the surface of the stone but that backfired. I will order some 5mm (3/16) bezel wire today. Nothing wrong with a Branson vacation. My dad has been there several times and loves it. Chuck
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rockymom
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2015
Posts: 118
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Post by rockymom on Jul 13, 2016 7:44:48 GMT -5
Your new pendants look perfect and ready to be posted for sale. When you post for sale on etsy please also include a matching silver chain.
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Post by radio on Jul 13, 2016 7:49:20 GMT -5
Well, just plan a vacation in Branson one of these days :-) I much prefer a straight walled cab as opposed to angled or domed almost to the base. Depending on the stone to be set, I sometimes will soften the top edge just a smidge, but not often. A tall bezel just looks much better to me when it is true vertical and just enough rolled over to hold the stone. Most cabs I cut have roughly a 3 mm girdle and I almost exclusively use 3/16 bezel That is very helpful. I think my issue was using a cab with a 2mm girdle and only using 3mm bezel wire. It is very difficult to bend the metal with so little to work with. I guess I was shooting for minimal metal covering the surface of the stone but that backfired. I will order some 5mm (3/16) bezel wire today. Nothing wrong with a Branson vacation. My dad has been there several times and loves it. Chuck I keep an assortment of 1/8th bezel on hand, but I never set Turquoise with a low bezel. Between the various bezel styles and the gallery wire, I must have North of 30 ounces in stock. That Gallery stuff ain't cheap!!!!! You might try experimenting with cutting the ring shank instead of using a full circle. Setting a bezel cup on top of a circle makes it stick up a good ways and looks odd when worn, as well as a tendency to twist off center on the finger. Also try experim enting with
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