Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2016 10:33:02 GMT -5
NAPA auto parts store is the best source here for v-belt selection, seems like the best selection varies greatly depending on the business model of the individual store. Thanks! Mine will bei very small, if I cant find it locally, now that I learned some lingo '3L' i see every imaginable size is cheap online. Thanks friends!
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Mark K
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Member since April 2012
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Post by Mark K on Nov 5, 2016 11:05:07 GMT -5
@shotgunner is there a 2017 Q thread yet? Nevermind, I'll google that myself. I always get prelubed pillow blocks or flange bearings and I still give them 1 pump with the grease gun after installation. Main reason is I look for non-chinese old stock and as such they've probably been in storage for a lot of years. Since there was not one, I made one.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2016 11:16:58 GMT -5
@shotgunner is there a 2017 Q thread yet? Nevermind, I'll google that myself. I always get prelubed pillow blocks or flange bearings and I still give them 1 pump with the grease gun after installation. Main reason is I look for non-chinese old stock and as such they've probably been in storage for a lot of years. Since there was not one, I made one. Yes you did. And here it is! forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/76639/fine-create-2017-quartzite-thread
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Nov 5, 2016 13:45:53 GMT -5
I have seen chatter about link belts too. Any advise on which way to go when building your forever tumbler? I have a link belt on my homemade cab grinder. I've read of regular belts getting a memory of sitting on the pulley when not in use and causing vibration when powered up. Link belts were said to not do this. I will agree it's a nice choice. And as stated ease of changing is a slam dunk. Much more expensive, but worth it imho.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2016 13:49:03 GMT -5
I have seen chatter about link belts too. Any advise on which way to go when building your forever tumbler? I have a link belt on my homemade cab grinder. I've read of regular belts getting a memory of sitting on the pulley when not in use and causing vibration when powered up. Link belts were said to not do this. I will agree it's a nice choice. And as stated ease of changing is a slam dunk. Much more expensive, but worth it imho. Thank you!! It's for my forever tumbler so it should be rolling 24/7 for most of the year. And replacements should be easy. But for my vibe that is the next build, link belt may make sense on both fronts.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 5, 2016 21:19:08 GMT -5
My homemade saw has bearings on both sides of the belts and hence when one of them eventually breaks it would mean a total removal of the arbor just to replace the belt -- except for the magic of link belts which can be built to various lengths and reconnected around such obstacles. I've never bought one (yet) but I will when the time comes (more expensive). I normal applications I like Rockoonz would prefer a normal v belt. Hardware or automotive outlets should meet any need you might have. Quartzite would be nice. I've only been to the rocks extravaganza once, but it was memorable for rocks and being able to see the faces of some of the voices on this forum. I'll have to give it a try if a 50th wedding anniversary trip to Argentina does not interfere. Before you congratulate me I should warn you its all been with the same wife. Some folks have had 4 or 5 spouses by the time they get to 50 years married. Link belts work great. They come in different sizes and profiles. Hubby used to use them as conveyor tracks on glass machines.
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Post by MrMike on Nov 8, 2016 19:40:19 GMT -5
I have a link belt on my homemade cab grinder. I've read of regular belts getting a memory of sitting on the pulley when not in use and causing vibration when powered up. Link belts were said to not do this. I will agree it's a nice choice. And as stated ease of changing is a slam dunk. Much more expensive, but worth it imho. Thank you!! It's for my forever tumbler so it should be rolling 24/7 for most of the year. And replacements should be easy. But for my vibe that is the next build, link belt may make sense on both fronts. Scott, Tractor Supply has a good selection of belts & pulleys. Also picked up two 3/4 " x 36" rods for about $12 each.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2016 19:57:31 GMT -5
Thank you!! It's for my forever tumbler so it should be rolling 24/7 for most of the year. And replacements should be easy. But for my vibe that is the next build, link belt may make sense on both fronts. Scott, Tractor Supply has a good selection of belts & pulleys. Also picked up two 3/4 " x 36" rods for about $12 each. I'm city folk. No tractor supply! But welding supply had 3/4" x 20' for $25 including 4 cuts. I will have a doubke decker tumbler!
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Post by MrMike on Nov 8, 2016 20:09:41 GMT -5
Aw man, I just finished my rotary & you had to bring up a double decker!! Thanks a lot for putting that idea in my head....I now have around 15-20 lbs capacity compared to the old POS HF 6 lb.
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Post by rockpickerforever on Nov 9, 2016 0:22:07 GMT -5
Scott, Tractor Supply has a good selection of belts & pulleys. Also picked up two 3/4 " x 36" rods for about $12 each. I'm city folk. No tractor supply! But welding supply had 3/4" x 20' for $25 including 4 cuts. I will have a doubke decker tumbler! There is a Tractor Supply located in Norco. What is that, like 20 minutes away? Google is your friend!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2016 9:28:18 GMT -5
I'm city folk. No tractor supply! But welding supply had 3/4" x 20' for $25 including 4 cuts. I will have a doubke decker tumbler! There is a Tractor Supply located in Norco. What is that, like 20 minutes away? Google is your friend! Really? Thanks!
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 9, 2016 13:38:24 GMT -5
I worked HVAC/Refrig for 30 years. A local manufacturer of heavy duty large restaurant exhaust fans told me the pillow blocks (several different makes) were all shipped 2/3 full of grease. For most applications you give one squeeze of a standard grease gun to fill until seal bulges a little. Overfilling opens the seal allowing dirt/grime/etc. to enter.
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
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Post by jamesp on Nov 10, 2016 4:17:39 GMT -5
I have had a fair amount of experience with rotating machinery.
My tumbler has 1.5 inch shafts, 1.5 inch pillow blocks w/grease fittings. Chinese brand from Surplus Center.
Never ever have seen a pillow block bearing rotate at the self centering socket instead of at the bearing. That is what it did. The bearing seamed fine. Rolled with little friction, made no sounds, did not feel bumpy when hand rotated. Apparently the socket had less friction than the bearing and it chose to rotate there instead of at the bearing. It was cold at that time and the grease was stiff. Slow shaft speed developed little heat to soften the grease perhaps. I replaced it. Thought about drilling thru the cast iron surround and into the outer bearing race and pinning it but had no drill bit that would come close to drilling into the outer race.
Never happened again. Tumbler has 8 pillow blocks with two sets of shafts. 4 years running darn near full time.
Scott will be tumbling soon.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2016 11:27:38 GMT -5
Scott will be tumbling soon. Yes, hope next week. Should have assembled Sunday. Then get belts and get rolling! Wierd story about the pillow block with incorrect rotation... I have a local hardware store that is more industrial than home depot. They have the same chinese pillow blocks as surplus center. No shipping, but sale stax. Have them today. Thanks for your knowledge!
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Post by roy on Nov 10, 2016 11:29:58 GMT -5
my bearing guy say never grease a sealed bearing even though they come with a grease zert you will ruin it
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 10, 2016 12:53:26 GMT -5
Only if you grease until grease runs out of bearing opening the seal. Always clean the zerk before greasing too.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Nov 13, 2016 19:19:51 GMT -5
So I see the debate goes on about pillow blocks and if they need greased. Info from a pillow block manufacturer.Actually, who this is from is an HVAC fan producer who uses several different companies pillow blocks. These instructions apply to all the pillow blocks used in this manufacturer's fans. If you read the charts you can see that bearings Link-Belt® ball bearings - Series 300 SKF ball bearings - SY Sealmaster ball bearings - MP Dodge ball bearings For use on horizontal shaft equipment, (pretty much covers almost all well known pillow block makers) are all used by this company and their instructions are across the board for all makes. Says all of them need initial greasing. Says buyer should actually purge (force out) anything in the bearing and pressure lubricate with fresh grease. Says some grease will flow out when filling bearing. Says complete greasing is assured if grease is worked in on one side of the bearing until grease appears on both sides. The manual states also, " All fan bearings must be re lubricated soon
as they arrive from the factory. To prevent corrosion, all bearings should receive grease and be rotated the first of every month. Turn the wheel by hand while greasing bearings. A clean 1/16" bead of grease must appear on each side of each bearing." Which tells me that grease coming out of the seal is part of the process and is used to tell when the old grease is purged. Note: these particular bearings are used in HVAC fan assemblies as well as many other industrial applications. Most common are the ball bearing types. Also directly from the manual: "If the bearing will be operated at less than 150 RPM, and in dirty conditions, more grease is desirable. The bearing will discharge excess grease through seals after a short period of operation." Says it's ok. All this stuff is written in this instruction manual written by the manufacturer. Basically if it comes with a zert, grease it at regular intervals based on use. Just FYI everyone, the pillow blocks installed on the machines my husband built every day had electrically operated and ladder logic controlled automatic greasing systems with grease pumps and grease lines coming from the pumps to the bearings so they could be greased when needed even if they were not accessible or within easy reach. Circled partially in red in the photo below on the right side of this machine is one of the units installed on a waterjet cutter. Also, hubby positively states that all bearings bought by his employer came ungreased (except for lubricants left over from the bearing assembly process) as ordered. On bearings not accessible, the zerts are thrown away and grease fittings and lines and automatic pumps installed instead. So, obviously, greasing pillow block bearings is very important. Can't we let this subject be done with and agree with at least what a manufacturer says?
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