jamesp
Cave Dweller 
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 26, 2016 6:29:00 GMT -5
To cheap to buy a tap so I ground down a spinning Dremel ziz wheel against a grinder to proper size. Used a Dremel to dig out stripped threads one by one. Still working after almost 3 years. Covington brand thread clamp for vice and ground down Dremel ziz wheel:  |
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Dec 26, 2016 7:59:13 GMT -5
The loose nature of the split nut clamp makes it a very forgiving setup. Good fix.
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 26, 2016 8:32:05 GMT -5
The loose nature of the split nut clamp makes it a very forgiving setup. Good fix. It did the trick Tom. Those clamps don't come cheap. A tap is proper method I suppose. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2016 14:03:56 GMT -5
The loose nature of the split nut clamp makes it a very forgiving setup. Good fix. It did the trick Tom. Those clamps don't come cheap. A tap is proper method I suppose. Ain't cheap is right. I'm considering making my own from a bronze welding clamp and brazing a bronze 5/8-18 nut to it. Then cutting the nut with a steel or a hack saw. A cludge for 1/3 the price. I like your careful thread chasing on yours. Much more elegant! |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 26, 2016 14:06:32 GMT -5
A welding clamp sounds like a great candidate for the job.
That fix happened on a day I HAD to cut rocks. Been there ?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2016 22:52:04 GMT -5
A welding clamp sounds like a great candidate for the job. That fix happened on a day I HAD to cut rocks. Been there ? Nope. Lol My cludge requires a welding clamp and a brazed nut that must be cut! What I havent figured out is if the clamps open enough to go around the all thread with the nut in place too..... 8-( |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 27, 2016 4:56:57 GMT -5
A welding clamp sounds like a great candidate for the job. That fix happened on a day I HAD to cut rocks. Been there ? Nope. Lol My cludge requires a welding clamp and a brazed nut that must be cut! What I havent figured out is if the clamps open enough to go around the all thread with the nut in place too..... 8-( The stinger or the ground ? |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2016 11:40:30 GMT -5
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,723 
|
Post by Fossilman on Dec 27, 2016 17:28:05 GMT -5
When you run equipment,you better know the ways to correct things,even if it's an idea,you have yourself!
Great idea Jim,I like it...............
|
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Dec 27, 2016 19:28:32 GMT -5
Tap and die sets are not that expensive guys. I've never had to fabricate a split nut, but if it meant getting the saw back up and running, I'd sure give it a go. Covington's design is hardly anything different than the clamp with a split nut welded in place (at least on the saw that I have used on occasion). covington-engineering.com/saw-accessories/Here is the one Covington sells (apparently with 24 threads - but the design is pretty close to what the shotgunner is describing. |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 28, 2016 6:01:56 GMT -5
That trick would have never happened if there was not threads already in place to use as guides.
Using a tap- clamp ends together and tap it out ? May have to put a shim in to get perfect roundness.
May have heard some RTH people having a hard time buying replacement clamps for old or rare saws.
The ground clamp I am using regularly clamps on 1" water pipe @shotgunner. That would be 1.25". Should be enough opening.
With out doubt spring force in ground clamp X4 X5 X6 more force that Covington clamp- a good thing.
Been meaning to replace that beast ground clamp, requires too much grip in morning when hands are asleep.
I made a block of wood that wedges into the Covington clamp on the vice that wedges between the handles for more clamping force, PIA.
Covington clamp on vice not the best application for that soft sprung clamp.
Carriage feed-no problem, clamp works fine.
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 28, 2016 10:24:18 GMT -5
Tap and die sets are not that expensive guys. I've never had to fabricate a split nut, but if it meant getting the saw back up and running, I'd sure give it a go. Covington's design is hardly anything different than the clamp with a split nut welded in place (at least on the saw that I have used on occasion). covington-engineering.com/saw-accessories/Here is the one Covington sells (apparently with 24 threads - but the design is pretty close to what the shotgunner is describing. This brass one Tom.  |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 28, 2016 10:43:09 GMT -5
Here ya go @shotgunner. The coupling is a 1" NPT.  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2016 10:48:57 GMT -5
Here ya go @shotgunner. The coupling is a 1" NPT. That's the one that keeps popping up. 5/8-18 nut needs a 15/16" wrench. But then it must open further. To allow the nut to go around the allthread 25/16" gap required with zero room for slop. Need some slop. Maybe is has another 3/8" on top of your 1-1/4"? |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 28, 2016 11:19:19 GMT -5
Here ya go @shotgunner. The coupling is a 1" NPT. That's the one that keeps popping up. 5/8-18 nut needs a 15/16" wrench. But then it must open further. To allow the nut to go around the allthread 25/16" gap required with zero room for slop. Need some slop. Maybe is has another 3/8" on top of your 1-1/4"? Yes, in the photo. Where the ends of the clamp curl outward. Then another 1/8" ability to open further. How big is the screw-oops, 5/8, I see it. Lots of meat to braze to on the very end, I think you could braze the nut halves to the end of the clamps. |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 28, 2016 11:21:40 GMT -5
Or you could braze it further in the clamp where it humps out and simply cut the ends back.
ETA But it still has to open X inches to get it over 5/8 screw-I see dilemma. No, not so, start with it more open when not compressed.
|
|
NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
|
Post by NDK on Dec 28, 2016 14:43:41 GMT -5
Here ya go @shotgunner. The coupling is a 1" NPT. Couldn't you just heat up the jaws on that clamp and bend them so they're open to whatever measurement you need? |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Dec 28, 2016 17:16:38 GMT -5
NDKNever have heated cast brass and bent it. It appears to be brass or bronze or a copper alloy, certainly a casting.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2016 10:24:04 GMT -5
Almost certainly phosphor or silicon bronze. Never heard of hand forging of either bronze. Hadn't considered it. Now I will..... May just spend the extra money on the right part NDK |
|
NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
|
Post by NDK on Dec 29, 2016 12:56:35 GMT -5
Oh ok. I thought the clamp was steel, as it looked to have some surface rust on it.
|
|
