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Post by captbob on Jun 25, 2017 22:01:07 GMT -5
Good lookin' machine!
All the wheels get water all the time?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2017 22:24:21 GMT -5
Good lookin' machine! All the wheels get water all the time? Thank you kind sir. Yes. And the water pump (swamp cooler pump) is on when the motor is on. Only one switch. Wired it up that way. Preliminary running proves we need the water curtains. And also, looks like 1G/hr is a good flow rate for wetting the wheels. |
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Post by Rockoonz on Jun 25, 2017 23:25:09 GMT -5
Industrial strength build, it should serve you well.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Jun 26, 2017 0:50:49 GMT -5
Scott, this is awesome! People ask "should I get a Genie, Cab King, EZ Cab,..." I say build your own!
Well built.
Lynn
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Post by orrum on Jun 26, 2017 7:01:01 GMT -5
X2 Lynn!!!
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jamesp
Cave Dweller 
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,663
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Post by jamesp on Jun 26, 2017 7:48:05 GMT -5
more purple !  |
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Post by captbob on Jun 26, 2017 8:04:20 GMT -5
One question about the pump being on when the motor is on.
I always heard/read that I was supposed to run the wheels with the water off for awhile when I finished using them. This aids in drying them. Supposedly, water left on the wheel after use all goes to the bottom of the wheel (gravity) and the wet area is bad for the wheel?
Maybe the real cabbers here can chime in on wheel drying. I don't use mine often enough to have personal experience on such. But I do run them to dry after I do use them.
Love the build, very creative. Thinking you are going to want shut off valves though so you can wet one wheel at a time.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483 
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Post by ziggy on Jun 26, 2017 8:37:18 GMT -5
Looks a lot like mine. Our water supply has individual shut off valve for each wheel. That way we only need one wheel getting soaked at a time. The valves also can adjust the flow to supply only the water desired. Don't forget to mount some sort of spray stopper over the wheels. We just use some denim strips. The rock snot is getting thick on ours. Good thing clean up is so easy.  Of course it does. I stole the idea from you!! Ha! I'm running a recirculation system.for the water. All wheels will be wet. Pump wired to the same switch as the motor. If needed I will put a denim curtain to retard splashing. Thanks Ziggy I knew where the design came from, silly. Does your recirculation have some kind of filter? You probably don't want to try to polish on 8000 or 12000 grit wheels with gritty water full of other size particles. Might get some less than spectacular finishes that way. With all six wheels spinning spray all over the place, you will be re-filling your reservoir often. The spray leaving the system will be copious and will empty it out in no time. The wheel spray cover is as much for keeping water in the system. Not as important as not getting soaked in my systems case (because my water never gets too dirty) but I guarantee your water will go away faster than you think and it will be like standing in the shower when cabbing. Due to the fact that I am always using clean water, I don't have issues with final polishing. I find that 5 gallons lasts me about 10 cabs. Water leaves the cabber and ends up in a catch jug, then the mineral rich water goes to water plants in the yard. |
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jun 26, 2017 8:41:24 GMT -5
One question about the pump being on when the motor is on. I always heard/read that I was supposed to run the wheels with the water off for awhile when I finished using them. This aids in drying them. Supposedly, water left on the wheel after use all goes to the bottom of the wheel (gravity) and the wet area is bad for the wheel? Maybe the real cabbers here can chime in on wheel drying. I don't use mine often enough to have personal experience on such. But I do run them to dry after I do use them. Love the build, very creative. Thinking you are going to want shut off valves though so you can wet one wheel at a time. Never had any issues with wet bottomed wheels. |
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Jun 26, 2017 8:47:15 GMT -5
One question about the pump being on when the motor is on. I always heard/read that I was supposed to run the wheels with the water off for awhile when I finished using them. This aids in drying them. Supposedly, water left on the wheel after use all goes to the bottom of the wheel (gravity) and the wet area is bad for the wheel? Maybe the real cabbers here can chime in on wheel drying. I don't use mine often enough to have personal experience on such. But I do run them to dry after I do use them. Love the build, very creative. Thinking you are going to want shut off valves though so you can wet one wheel at a time. Silicon carbide wheels soak up some water, so need to be spun dry. Modern metal & resin wheels don't need it. Lynn |
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Post by captbob on Jun 26, 2017 9:40:33 GMT -5
Silicon carbide wheels soak up some water, so need to be spun dry. Modern metal & resin wheels don't need it. Lynn Gotcha, thank you. Learned sumtin'! I have a machine with a couple SiC wheels and some with expanding drums with the grit belts. Will keep spinning them dry and not worry about the machines with diamond wheels. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 12:27:22 GMT -5
Grit from cutting cabs will MOSTLY get caught in the blue tubs up top. Like a sluice box lets all the heavies settle out. Those blue jugs hold 1.5" of water before it overflows down to the bucket.
Then, the used water returns thru hard tubes to the BOTTOM of the bucket. The water pump, floats on a foam raft keeping the intake 6" above the return water.
We use this method at class. If a polish problem arises, I can solve it then. I don't expect that.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 12:29:50 GMT -5
Industrial strength build, it should serve you well. Thanks Lee. My shaft is bent.....  Can it be straightened? |
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zekesman
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2016
Posts: 637 
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Post by zekesman on Jun 26, 2017 15:15:57 GMT -5
Industrial strength build, it should serve you well. Thanks Lee. My shaft is bent..... Can it be straightened? Yes, but probably not good enough to cab on |
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jun 26, 2017 16:19:26 GMT -5
Industrial strength build, it should serve you well. Thanks Lee. My shaft is bent..... Can it be straightened? Is it a bearing grade shaft? Your best bet is to get a high quality shaft and then roll it on a surface plate (inspection quality granite plate) before actually buying it. Most steel suppliers have one in shop usually. If it doesn't roll perfectly, it is bent. If you had threads cut into it there is a chance that the threading process warped it some. If it uses coarse threads there is more chance that the threading process caused the warp. Fine threads will torque the bar less when being cut than coarse ones do. Hubby got around that by inventing a setup that allows running without threaded ends. |
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Post by wigglinrocks on Jun 26, 2017 17:04:08 GMT -5
My shaft is bent..... Can it be straightened? Shouldn't be stumbling around in the dark . |
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gemfeller
Cave Dweller
Member since June 2011
Posts: 4,074
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Post by gemfeller on Jun 26, 2017 17:36:40 GMT -5
Wow, Scott and Jeannie, that's a "Titan"-ic build! Hope your shaft problem is minor and can be easily fixed. I've had my head down doing intensive website work and haven't checked in here in a while. The machine looks like it'll be a real rock-eater when it's up and operating. Looking forward to see some great cabs Jeannie.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 19:13:20 GMT -5
Thanks Rick.
Bill at diamond Pacific says he'll fix it for me. Next time I'm in Barstow. Saturday for sure. Maybe even sooner.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 19:27:20 GMT -5
Thanks Lee. My shaft is bent..... Can it be straightened? Is it a bearing grade shaft? Your best bet is to get a high quality shaft and then roll it on a surface plate (inspection quality granite plate) before actually buying it. Most steel suppliers have one in shop usually. If it doesn't roll perfectly, it is bent. If you had threads cut into it there is a chance that the threading process warped it some. If it uses coarse threads there is more chance that the threading process caused the warp. Fine threads will torque the bar less when being cut than coarse ones do. Hubby got around that by inventing a setup that allows running without threaded ends. Yes, bearing shaft grade. Fine threads. They were cut on a CNC lathe with multiple shallow cuts. And then not far from the vice. this wobble is only one end. No way threading did this. I should have checked it upon purchase as instructed above |
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,663
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Post by jamesp on Jun 27, 2017 2:03:49 GMT -5
Those long cantilevered shafts are sensitive to any imbalance.
You may have already done this. Remove the wheels and spin it at operating speed.. Check to see if it's still bent.
There is a chance you have an off-balance wheel in the mix and a new shaft will still wobble.
Remove wheels/move wheels/put right side wheels on left and left side wheels on right to see if the wobble changes sides.
One of the reasons I like having the 3600 RPM tuck blade mounted directly to the tile saw motor- zero off balance, shaft is short, and motors are built with precision alignment and balance.
The King Kong grinder goes thru a v-belt to a mild steel (not bearing grade) shaft with cheap pillow block bearings. It has a vibration at diamond face. Not good when grinding. Useless for cabbing.
Sure would be nice to have outboard bearings on those long shafts. Guessing it causes logistics problems removing the wheels.
Do all cab machines all have those long cantilevered shafts ?
straightening a shaft, I doubt it. Guessing .005" out would reap havoc at that RPM.
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