RWA3006
Cave Dweller 
Member since March 2009
Posts: 4,703 
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Post by RWA3006 on Aug 4, 2017 19:14:46 GMT -5
That's a wicked device. Does it to take a while to coast to a stop ? Was there a reason for putting the stacked blades outboard instead of inboard, perhaps mud management access or you turned the end of the shaft for a smaller hole in the blades ? I suppose the 60 grit wheel does a 1 inch shaft and has a key, the blades have a 5/8 inch hole and 5/8 nut holding them against the step in the shaft. I am having great success with a 1/4 inch thick 7" tuck diamond blade on the tile saw. A direct bolt on. I like the 1/4 inch wide Advanta tuck blade. It has a 1/2 inch face on the side. Wish it were wider(or taller as it is). You can grind aggressive on the 1/4" face and do flat work on the side. The blade is of course bolted directly to the short shaft of the tile saw motor. Table can be tilted or left flat. Blade can be lowered so that only a bit of it is exposed. The blade picks up water from the pan and is managed fairly well by the baffles in the tile saw. Better to feed water to the pan as the wide blade draws it off fast. So a bit messy. Needs full base pan to catch all drip. There is no heavy rotating weight at the end of an extended shaft, damn if my King Kong grinder would start to vibrate when blade got worn to an out-of-balance situation. Most tile saws come with a whole 1/2 HP motor and they turn at 3600 RPM. But very balanced with the nubby short shaft. I choose to wear one blade out at a time and deal with the smaller contact point. Wide contact points cut slow, narrow ones cut fast. Pressure can be applied to increase cutting rate on a wide contact point but it can damage the sintering in that it glazes it. If the blade does get worn unevenly it is trash. Not just from an imbalance standpoint, but an out-of-round situation which causes rock to bounce. So I choose to not gang blades. Spinning those diamond blades at 3600 RPM brings another dimension to removing material. 1800 or 3600, like falling 10 stories or 20 stories. About equally as dangerous. When using a wide contact point on the 1/4 HP King Kong grinder(geared up to 2300 RPM on a 1725 motor the friction would slow the motor fairly easy. 1/2 HP about right. Especially with heavier ganged blades as it took a while for motor to get back to rated speed. Mind you I ground a lot of rocks to feed 15 and 20 pound tumbler barrels. It was harsh duty and a lot of grinding. I also feel that the ganged blade should be run as an independent shaft and motor. In case vibration is present, plus the mess. Tell us more about this tuck blade. I thought I read something a while back you had written about this but I lost track where to find it. I'd be interested in a link or something elaborating on it. Thanks. |
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Post by HankRocks on Aug 4, 2017 19:36:00 GMT -5
I love seeing folks build things like this, something very appealing about creating things. Very nice work.
Henry
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,663
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Post by jamesp on Aug 4, 2017 19:41:57 GMT -5
RWA30067" X 1/4" Advanta tuck blade from Ebay has unusually sharp diamonds compared to other wheels I have tried. Cost is $27 ppd.
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RWA3006
Cave Dweller
Member since March 2009
Posts: 4,703
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Post by RWA3006 on Aug 4, 2017 20:12:19 GMT -5
RWA30067" X 1/4" Advanta tuck blade from Ebay has unusually sharp diamonds compared to other wheels I have tried. Cost is $27 ppd. Thanks jamesp. I just ordered one. It looks like a bad boy. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Aug 4, 2017 20:21:03 GMT -5
Great build, Tommy! I'm hoping it gives you more time at the wheel. That sawblade wheel really eats rocks. Holey Moley!
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RWA3006
Cave Dweller
Member since March 2009
Posts: 4,703
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Post by RWA3006 on Aug 4, 2017 20:32:41 GMT -5
It will take a while to smooth out all the wrinkles and start getting used to a new machine but I'm calling this one finished. rockjunquie I added the video I promised you to the bottom of the first post. Tommy, thanks for a great thread, pictures, inspiration. You've given me some good ideas that I'll use soon. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Aug 4, 2017 20:58:23 GMT -5
Tommy, you will need to enshrine this thread, or I will. 
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Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 13,013
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Post by Tommy on Aug 4, 2017 21:32:52 GMT -5
Tommy, you will need to enshrine this thread, or I will. Thanks When I feel like I'm done tweaking it and it has ran it's course, I'll give it a spot in the DIY hall of fame lol. |
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,663
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Post by jamesp on Aug 4, 2017 21:53:52 GMT -5
RWA30067" X 1/4" Advanta tuck blade from Ebay has unusually sharp diamonds compared to other wheels I have tried. Cost is $27 ppd. Thanks jamesp. I just ordered one. It looks like a bad boy. It has darn sharp diamonds. Got a stack of 30 and 40 grit tucks, wheels, cups and blades, none of them cut like this one. There are a lot forms of synthetic diamond abrasives. Big variation in quality too, about all made overseas. No guarantee of what you are buying. Some diamonds blades are by design. For instance tile saw blades usually use very dull diamonds so they will not chip the glaze on the tile's surface since the cuts show. Tuck blades are made to remove masonry at a high rate. As diamond cups do. Supposed to be aggressive. Lapidary saws use fine diamonds and leave a fairly shiny cut removable with 400 grit. That Advanta blade has high grade aggressive diamonds, and is cheap to boot. Best test is fast grind rate with little pressure. Or push the wheel across a glass or steel plate and note how much it digs in. Or simply by touch. Stop by a granite countertop tool supply house that sells all kinds of diamond tools like Grandquartz. Grandquartz cup wheels(for instance) www.granquartz.com/cup-wheels/category/48?productPage=1Touch the diamonds on their various blades and wheels and note the wide range of sharpness. But they are over priced. |
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,360
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Post by quartz on Aug 4, 2017 23:42:57 GMT -5
That's a very nice build there, well thought out and clean, my compliments. One thing I do see, it looks in the pictures like the belt pulleys are way out of alignment from motor to shaft. Bringing them into line so the belt runs straight will make the belt and the motor a lot happier, and they will live longer.
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Post by orrum on Aug 5, 2017 3:51:32 GMT -5
Awesome machine Tommy! Thank you so much for sharing the video!
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Post by MrMike on Aug 5, 2017 6:34:44 GMT -5
Tommy great video & build! I could see that Charlie was thoroughly impressed.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,663
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Post by jamesp on Aug 5, 2017 6:50:22 GMT -5
The wide flat face of the ganged blades is perfect for pre-shaping cabs and slabs and all other applications.
Great tool and makes sense for a cheap alternative for anyone working rock. Should be a fixture in the lapidary shop.
Should save life on your coarse cab wheel.
Mixing wood in your build is just plain smart. Wood is so practical and workable.(coming from a welder). It also deadens sound and easy to make mods to.
Anxious to hear how that machine effects your production. And future mods to assist ease of operation.
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Post by captbob on Aug 5, 2017 8:35:00 GMT -5
Very nice build!
A suggestion if I may? Maybe apply a waterproofing coating to all the wood. Maybe you did and I missed that part.
You worried about the drain getting clogged? Maybe a piece of screen over the drain hole that can trap the larger debris -if warranted.
You should get years of use out of this machine. Well done.
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Post by MrMike on Aug 5, 2017 8:39:46 GMT -5
Very nice build! A suggestion if I may? Maybe apply a waterproofing coating to all the wood. Maybe you did and I missed that part. You worried about the drain getting clogged? Maybe a piece of screen over the drain hole that can trap the larger debris -if warranted. You should get years of use out of this machine. Well done. Just glad he didn't paint it purple |
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 13,013
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Post by Tommy on Aug 5, 2017 9:32:30 GMT -5
That's a very nice build there, well thought out and clean, my compliments. One thing I do see, it looks in the pictures like the belt pulleys are way out of alignment from motor to shaft. Bringing them into line so the belt runs straight will make the belt and the motor a lot happier, and they will live longer. Thanks Larry! Might be an optical illusion - I squared them up as best as I could do - visually though so I know they aren't perfect but not too bad I think. |
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 13,013
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Post by Tommy on Aug 5, 2017 9:35:25 GMT -5
Very nice build! A suggestion if I may? Maybe apply a waterproofing coating to all the wood. Maybe you did and I missed that part. You worried about the drain getting clogged? Maybe a piece of screen over the drain hole that can trap the larger debris -if warranted. You should get years of use out of this machine. Well done. Thanks! I was thinking today I would try to find a sheet of (rubber?) to cover and drape the front end with for waterproofing and cushioning - I am now thinking your idea might be better. I will end up doing something - just not sure what yet. |
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 13,013
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Post by Tommy on Aug 5, 2017 9:39:50 GMT -5
Tommy great video & build! I could see that Charlie was thoroughly impressed.  He's coming around |
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 5, 2017 10:27:59 GMT -5
Tommy a very impressive build. If you want something for edging or the rubber sheet message me, I have some stuff packratted away that will be going away before too long if I don't find good homes for it. A little Thompsons water seal or even paint especially on the end grain of your cuts would be advisable as well IMO.
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Post by coloradocliff on Aug 5, 2017 10:33:36 GMT -5
Tommy , you will need to enshrine this thread, or I will. Thanks When I feel like I'm done tweaking it and it has ran it's course, I'll give it a spot in the DIY hall of fame lol. And I promise to stay off from the thread. grin Good job big guy.. Hope it saves you lots of time.
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