toolnut
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Post by toolnut on Jan 15, 2018 20:06:18 GMT -5
Can you use a knife or something to swirl the colors before it cools? Don't think so. But don't know the tricks of the trade. Bought a book and flipped thru it, lots of tricks. It is a productive little kiln though. Bet a pot melt could be done. That would blend well. You can manipulate glass in a kiln, before it cools. You need to turn off the kiln, and use stainless steel tools with long hamdles, since it doesn't transfer heat well. Make sure you "TURN OFF THE KILN" since a slip of your rod hitting heating element can electrocute you. I do it often, and its a little more involved in a larger Kiln due to the large heat area when opening the lid, and you need gloves , body protection from heat, face shield, and special glasses that filter damaging rays from glass that's in that heat range. Pot melt patterns are manipulated commonly using terracota Flower pots with different holes drilled in the bottoms . The Flower pots are propped over your mold, and the glass pieces are stacked in the pots, and the heated to melt temp, causing the glass in the pot to melt and flow into the mold in colors determined by how you stacked yor pieces to melt. See the "Pot Melts" pages on YouTube.
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Post by 1dave on Jan 15, 2018 21:49:56 GMT -5
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jamesp
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Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 7:07:38 GMT -5
Nice tumbles as usual! The patterns on that rock almost seem impossible, one of my favorites for sure! Glad to see another Toyota fan! I've bought a 2007 Tundra with the 5.7 new and now has 130,000 miles and still feels new! The 4.7 is also a great motor, I had that in my 2005 Tundra and was very smooth! Love them Toyotas illusionist. The 2000 Tundra, 350,000 miles and not a serious break down. Still smokes the tires, engine like new. Would trust it to drive across the US. The body looks 1,000,000 miles lol.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 7:16:39 GMT -5
Don't think so. But don't know the tricks of the trade. Bought a book and flipped thru it, lots of tricks. It is a productive little kiln though. Bet a pot melt could be done. That would blend well. You can manipulate glass in a kiln, before it cools. You need to turn off the kiln, and use stainless steel tools with long hamdles, since it doesn't transfer heat well. Make sure you "TURN OFF THE KILN" since a slip of your rod hitting heating element can electrocute you. I do it often, and its a little more involved in a larger Kiln due to the large heat area when opening the lid, and you need gloves , body protection from heat, face shield, and special glasses that filter damaging rays from glass that's in that heat range. Pot melt patterns are manipulated commonly using terracota Flower pots with different holes drilled in the bottoms . The Flower pots are propped over your mold, and the glass pieces are stacked in the pots, and the heated to melt temp, causing the glass in the pot to melt and flow into the mold in colors determined by how you stacked yor pieces to melt. See the "Pot Melts" pages on YouTube. Love this forum. Thanks toolnut. I get the stainless and it's low heat transfer. I weld and am comfortable with red hot steel. However, red hot glass strikes fear in me for some reason. Thinking it will blow up in my face. Watching the glass blowers hold that blob of molten glass to their face to observe their progress sends chills. One of the glass blowers in shorts and sneakers with no socks flipping that shiksa bob around like it's a hot marshmallow on a stick. Chomping at the bit to buy an electric kiln. Been cursed with glass craze. Blaming you and MsAliBy the way toolnut, both glass blowers use COE 96 glass. so their scrap should be compatible.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 7:17:39 GMT -5
The pot melt. My speed lol. That's what I want to do Dave. Jack Storms is way crazy insane art. He is a wizard.
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bevsmith1960
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Post by bevsmith1960 on Jan 16, 2018 9:01:45 GMT -5
I suspect the diesel bill will be higher than the abrasive bill running the truck for a week or so. Need me some Rio's!!!, maybe Feb or Mar. Jealous of you and txrockhunter living in the land of agate and pet wood. Could not be responsible with time if living there. Would always be rock hunting, how do y'all discipline yourselves ? Need to train those gravel pit workers to collect and send those fine Rio agates out. A simple bagging jig. 50 POUND BAGS ASSORTED AGATES The pits close to the river are so loaded with fine agate and wood. Only to be used mostly as road bedding under asphalt - ouch. No telling how many fine pet palm and wood deposits are on those giant ranches down there as far as the eye can see. Road bed? Noooooooooo! 😣😭
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 9:07:37 GMT -5
Jealous of you and txrockhunter living in the land of agate and pet wood. Could not be responsible with time if living there. Would always be rock hunting, how do y'all discipline yourselves ? Need to train those gravel pit workers to collect and send those fine Rio agates out. A simple bagging jig. 50 POUND BAGS ASSORTED AGATES The pits close to the river are so loaded with fine agate and wood. Only to be used mostly as road bedding under asphalt - ouch. No telling how many fine pet palm and wood deposits are on those giant ranches down there as far as the eye can see. Road bed? Noooooooooo! 😣😭 Yep. Saw it with my own eyes.
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Post by MsAli on Jan 16, 2018 10:44:30 GMT -5
You can manipulate glass in a kiln, before it cools. You need to turn off the kiln, and use stainless steel tools with long hamdles, since it doesn't transfer heat well. Make sure you "TURN OFF THE KILN" since a slip of your rod hitting heating element can electrocute you. I do it often, and its a little more involved in a larger Kiln due to the large heat area when opening the lid, and you need gloves , body protection from heat, face shield, and special glasses that filter damaging rays from glass that's in that heat range. Pot melt patterns are manipulated commonly using terracota Flower pots with different holes drilled in the bottoms . The Flower pots are propped over your mold, and the glass pieces are stacked in the pots, and the heated to melt temp, causing the glass in the pot to melt and flow into the mold in colors determined by how you stacked yor pieces to melt. See the "Pot Melts" pages on YouTube. Love this forum. Thanks toolnut . I get the stainless and it's low heat transfer. I weld and am comfortable with red hot steel. However, red hot glass strikes fear in me for some reason. Thinking it will blow up in my face. Watching the glass blowers hold that blob of molten glass to their face to observe their progress sends chills. One of the glass blowers in shorts and sneakers with no socks flipping that shiksa bob around like it's a hot marshmallow on a stick. Chomping at the bit to buy an electric kiln. Been cursed with glass craze. Blaming you and MsAli By the way toolnut, both glass blowers use COE 96 glass. so their scrap should be compatible. How did I get blamed for this?
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Post by 1dave on Jan 16, 2018 11:19:34 GMT -5
Getting blamed around here is easy and fun!
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Post by MsAli on Jan 16, 2018 11:36:54 GMT -5
Getting blamed around here is easy and fun! Pretty rocks and pretty glass, If he keeps on making stuff like he has been I will take the blame all day long for being the cause.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 12:33:28 GMT -5
Am an absolute failure without an impetus. Starting to get into this art thing... Getting about 20% fine colored glass, 8 pounds per 40 pounds, from the blowers MsAli. 5 gallon bucket weighs 40 pounds. 1st thing is to 5/8" screen the small stuff out, pick color from the bigger. About 50% of the bucket is smalls and powder. Gettin a groove.
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 12:34:24 GMT -5
Getting blamed around here is easy and fun! Safer from a distance.
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toolnut
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Posts: 42
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Post by toolnut on Jan 16, 2018 19:22:01 GMT -5
You can manipulate glass in a kiln, before it cools. You need to turn off the kiln, and use stainless steel tools with long hamdles, since it doesn't transfer heat well. Make sure you "TURN OFF THE KILN" since a slip of your rod hitting heating element can electrocute you. I do it often, and its a little more involved in a larger Kiln due to the large heat area when opening the lid, and you need gloves , body protection from heat, face shield, and special glasses that filter damaging rays from glass that's in that heat range. Pot melt patterns are manipulated commonly using terracota Flower pots with different holes drilled in the bottoms . The Flower pots are propped over your mold, and the glass pieces are stacked in the pots, and the heated to melt temp, causing the glass in the pot to melt and flow into the mold in colors determined by how you stacked yor pieces to melt. See the "Pot Melts" pages on YouTube. Love this forum. Thanks toolnut . I get the stainless and it's low heat transfer. I weld and am comfortable with red hot steel. However, red hot glass strikes fear in me for some reason. Thinking it will blow up in my face. Watching the glass blowers hold that blob of molten glass to their face to observe their progress sends chills. One of the glass blowers in shorts and sneakers with no socks flipping that shiksa bob around like it's a hot marshmallow on a stick. Chomping at the bit to buy an electric kiln. Been cursed with glass craze. Blaming you and MsAli By the way toolnut, both glass blowers use COE 96 glass. so their scrap should be compatible. Ha ha, And I blame you for getting me into this and thinking about it. Hot glass is just hot. It has no blow out characteristics I know of. Its like Mollasis when its hot, Hard to pull apart, and has to be cut. Wish you where closer, I would give you a kiln to play with the glass. I put away a large ceramics kiln when I got my bigger kiln, because of lack of space I had 3 kilns in the shop at that time of various sizes and the big one had to go for a bigger one. Not sure if COE would be an issue, since the glass is being melted and should come out with its own Coe.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 16, 2018 22:23:22 GMT -5
Thanks toolnut. Wish you were closer. Looks like I'll have to take some schooling. Will delay as long as possible, hate to become influenced by established procedures. Wandering blind often stimulates new ideas. Going to buy a kiln. Handy, so will get a used one unless rebuilding issues are beyond my ability. Or parts take costs way up. I would figure a high mileage kiln will need a lot of expensive components. Intersting note about the COE. Again, lots to learn. Lots of used kilns around for $250 to $400. Way lower than original cost. Concern that an expensive rebuild is needed. Hoping to get 1 cu ft minimum size. preferably 15" tall and 16" X 16" for doing pot melts. Maybe you have a suggestion for pot melt size.
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toolnut
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Post by toolnut on Jan 16, 2018 23:35:17 GMT -5
Thanks toolnut . Wish you were closer. Looks like I'll have to take some schooling. Will delay as long as possible, hate to become influenced by established procedures. Wandering blind often stimulates new ideas. Going to buy a kiln. Handy, so will get a used one unless rebuilding issues are beyond my ability. Or parts take costs way up. I would figure a high mileage kiln will need a lot of expensive components. Intersting note about the COE. Again, lots to learn. Lots of used kilns around for $250 to $400. Way lower than original cost. Concern that an expensive rebuild is needed. Hoping to get 1 cu ft minimum size. preferably 15" tall and 16" X 16" for doing pot melts. Maybe you have a suggestion for pot melt size. Usually older kilns only have one weakness, and that's coils and that doesn't happen oftem I have had a bout 6 used Klns and never had to replace a coil yet. I had to replace a coil in my metal furnace for melting brass and copper, but not in the other kilns and I run 3 of them, plus a crucible kiln. Used kilns pop up once in a while. I got a couple from a School that was being demolished and they sold off tools from the Tecj class romms. Got an AMCO 12x12 chamber fron tloader for 25 bucks. Could have bough another 4 or 5 for same amount, but already had a couple. . The sold a front loader the size of a small refrigerator for 5 bucks, and a chest top loader the size of a small freezer for 5 bucks . No one wanted it because of the weight . I would have bought them if I had the space at the time. As far as size for doing a melt, I could probably tell you after I get what I need in the pots and do the first set up. Will do three setups in the kiln at one time, I think, or maybe four. Should have enough room in the chamber which is almost 4 feet by almost 30 inches, and 13 inches deep which is pretty big for a glass kiln.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 17, 2018 7:03:41 GMT -5
Thanks toolnut . Wish you were closer. Looks like I'll have to take some schooling. Will delay as long as possible, hate to become influenced by established procedures. Wandering blind often stimulates new ideas. Going to buy a kiln. Handy, so will get a used one unless rebuilding issues are beyond my ability. Or parts take costs way up. I would figure a high mileage kiln will need a lot of expensive components. Intersting note about the COE. Again, lots to learn. Lots of used kilns around for $250 to $400. Way lower than original cost. Concern that an expensive rebuild is needed. Hoping to get 1 cu ft minimum size. preferably 15" tall and 16" X 16" for doing pot melts. Maybe you have a suggestion for pot melt size. Usually older kilns only have one weakness, and that's coils and that doesn't happen oftem I have had a bout 6 used Klns and never had to replace a coil yet. I had to replace a coil in my metal furnace for melting brass and copper, but not in the other kilns and I run 3 of them, plus a crucible kiln. Used kilns pop up once in a while. I got a couple from a School that was being demolished and they sold off tools from the Tecj class romms. Got an AMCO 12x12 chamber fron tloader for 25 bucks. Could have bough another 4 or 5 for same amount, but already had a couple. . The sold a front loader the size of a small refrigerator for 5 bucks, and a chest top loader the size of a small freezer for 5 bucks . No one wanted it because of the weight . I would have bought them if I had the space at the time. As far as size for doing a melt, I could probably tell you after I get what I need in the pots and do the first set up. Will do three setups in the kiln at one time, I think, or maybe four. Should have enough room in the chamber which is almost 4 feet by almost 30 inches, and 13 inches deep which is pretty big for a glass kiln. Georgia is land of aluminum oxide clay and cheap high alumina kiln brick with one of the world's largest deposits of kaolin clay here. I have a 200 amp breaker box over in the work barn doing nothing but running tumblers. So tempted to build a big kiln. Lots of shed around the barn. Sure could slap a big kiln together. Or buy a big used factory made since the big heavy ones are selling cheap. Will see how a small kiln adds interest to life first. Big chunks of colored glass like cullet sells like hot cakes around here. Would be cool to mass produce colored glass from raw materials. just pipe dreams... The controller would be the challenge. If the coils are the weakness all's well. Can't be to difficult to replace that component. I have cooked so many pieces of glass I ran out of kiln paper, more on order. Got it bad. last cook, 'meteor shower'. ~2.5 inches across and 3/8" thick:
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toolnut
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Post by toolnut on Jan 17, 2018 8:24:29 GMT -5
Usually older kilns only have one weakness, and that's coils and that doesn't happen oftem I have had a bout 6 used Klns and never had to replace a coil yet. I had to replace a coil in my metal furnace for melting brass and copper, but not in the other kilns and I run 3 of them, plus a crucible kiln. Used kilns pop up once in a while. I got a couple from a School that was being demolished and they sold off tools from the Tecj class romms. Got an AMCO 12x12 chamber fron tloader for 25 bucks. Could have bough another 4 or 5 for same amount, but already had a couple. . The sold a front loader the size of a small refrigerator for 5 bucks, and a chest top loader the size of a small freezer for 5 bucks . No one wanted it because of the weight . I would have bought them if I had the space at the time. As far as size for doing a melt, I could probably tell you after I get what I need in the pots and do the first set up. Will do three setups in the kiln at one time, I think, or maybe four. Should have enough room in the chamber which is almost 4 feet by almost 30 inches, and 13 inches deep which is pretty big for a glass kiln. Georgia is land of aluminum oxide clay and cheap high alumina kiln brick with one of the world's largest deposits of kaolin clay here. I have a 200 amp breaker box over in the work barn doing nothing but running tumblers. So tempted to build a big kiln. Lots of shed around the barn. Sure could slap a big kiln together. Or buy a big used factory made since the big heavy ones are selling cheap. Will see how a small kiln adds interest to life first. Big chunks of colored glass like cullet sells like hot cakes around here. Would be cool to mass produce colored glass from raw materials. just pipe dreams... The controller would be the challenge. If the coils are the weakness all's well. Can't be to difficult to replace that component. I have cooked so many pieces of glass I ran out of kiln paper, more on order. Got it bad. last cook, 'meteor shower'. ~2.5 inches across and 3/8" thick: A Manual controller and a good pyrometer is all you would need if your working in your shop. Just keep a watch and adjust accordingly. I did it for years before they came out with a computer program for it. Then they came out with digital programmable controllers. Nice but very pricey and hard to justify if its not making any money for you. My controller was an 800 dollar addition to the cost of the kiln, which was about 2500.00 dollars.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 17, 2018 8:58:49 GMT -5
Was reading about the step increments toolnut. Not much different from heat treating rocks in my manual furnace. I will say, simply opening the door for 10 seconds on a rock treatment and beware. That small amount of cooling will make the rocks fly apart. Glass apparently less sensitive to thermal shock. Next step is a 1.5 to 2 cu ft electric kiln. Used affordable unit. shopping for such
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toolnut
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Post by toolnut on Jan 17, 2018 9:12:18 GMT -5
Was reading about the step increments toolnut . Not much different from heat treating rocks in my manual furnace. I will say, simply opening the door for 10 seconds on a rock treatment and beware. That small amount of cooling will make the rocks fly apart. Glass apparently less sensitive to thermal shock. Next step is a 1.5 to 2 cu ft electric kiln. Used affordable unit. shopping for such Glass is sensitive to thermal shock but in its early heating stages. After it gets to 800F or 900F you don't see that problem from air cooling until it drops quite a bit. I came up with my own program, which is ramp up from room temperature at 200F per hour, to 250F and hold for 15 minutes. Then ramp to 350 at 200F per hour, and hold again for 15 minutes. The to 500F at same rate, and hold for 15 minutes. Then to 700F and hold for 15, then ramp at 1000F per hour to 900F and hold for 15 then ramp to 1300F and hold for 20 minutes to Forming temperature. Melting would be easier and maybe just 3 ramp ups. Will have to see the program in the controller for casting glass which would be the same as a melt. It has the pre-programmed schedule in it from the factory. Will let you know, or you can go to a kln websute, like "Evenheat" and download their manula for free and it has all firing schedules charts for glass.
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Post by Garage Rocker on Jan 17, 2018 9:46:11 GMT -5
Nice batch of lace, James. It definitely has more color than the stuff I've run. Now, we need to talk about your background materials. Those paper plates are way busy and distract from the shiny rocks. Same with your TV listings on the glass tumble pics I saw elsewhere. Solid color background would allow us to see the color patterns better, instead of a magnification of the channel lineup. I just want to see the results of your hard work more clearly. Plain white paper plates an option? They're cheaper. Keep up the work on that glass. Enjoying watching what you're doing.
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