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Post by MrP on Feb 8, 2018 9:10:15 GMT -5
James I was thinking if you figure out how to make thick blocks you could layer with color and clear layers. When the block is finished glue it to a block to cut through the clear layer then you could see the colors to maybe shape the pendant to a nice color and shape. You may be able to find very special colors and shapes to sell for more money therefor making it worth the extra effort. Just thinking.......................MrP
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Post by HankRocks on Feb 8, 2018 9:51:27 GMT -5
I agree with MrP, adding a bit more clear would be a good idea. To me it's similar to Moss/Plume/Bouquet agate, the ones with some open or clear space are more attractive than the densely packed ones. The glass is not quite the same as you are selling the color combination not the pattern in Agate. Maybe 15% to 20 % more clear, still a rainbow effect but with some delineation. Too much clear would spread the color too much. The color blobs you are creating are pretty impressive, keep up the good work.....Henry
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 10:05:14 GMT -5
I'm just melting giant bricks and sawing or hammering them into pendant tumbles Billy. I won't be fusing individual pendants. 6"x 6" x 2" Glass brick ready for slabbing in the 18 inch saw. Will make another mold for thicker 6" x 6" x 4" bricks for easier clamping, about max for my kiln. ![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4770/39437801894_88936634c2_c.jpg) James I am saying spread the color out more. That is a neat looking jumble of colors but with more clear they would be separated more and I think may look even better. With all the colors you would still have a concentration of colors. Sounds like you have a large supply of colored glass but if this really goes well for you even a large supply can get small in a hurry......................................MrP OK, I have been thinking along the same lines Michael. I got the colors way too jammed together. Thanks for the guidance. No problem. Simply mix more clear glass in. I have a giant stack of clear glass after picking the color out of it. No shortage of clear. Running out ? I stopped by yesterday and shoveled glass out of 55 gallon drums and into 18 five gallon buckets with a short well digger's shovel. He has about 25 - 55 gallon drums full of this stuff. And this is just one of the glass artists in town. No shortage of COE 96 trash glass for me. I feel like a truck ran over me. Too many bend overs.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 10:12:39 GMT -5
I agree with MrP, adding a bit more clear would be a good idea. To me it's similar to Moss/Plume/Bouquet agate, the ones with some open or clear space are more attractive than the densely packed ones. The glass is not quite the same as you are selling the color combination not the pattern in Agate. Maybe 15% to 20 % more clear, still a rainbow effect but with some delineation. Too much clear would spread the color too much. The color blobs you are creating are pretty impressive, keep up the good work.....Henry Cool, another great opinion on adding more clear. Thanks Henry. Like high grade moss agate with high percentage clear chalcedony...I get that. There are categories of trash glass separated too, shards/chunks/broken figurines/by color/by size/by color and size, etc and etc. Got a gold mine of glass. He said he separated the glass for many years and has now decided to get rid of his efforts and not re-melt it. Works well for my intentions.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 10:23:29 GMT -5
James I was thinking if you figure out how to make thick blocks you could layer with color and clear layers. When the block is finished glue it to a block to cut through the clear layer then you could see the colors to maybe shape the pendant to a nice color and shape. You may be able to find very special colors and shapes to sell for more money therefor making it worth the extra effort. Just thinking.......................MrP Already hallucinating on the variations Michael. It is endless. Right at this time I am maximizing brick mold size and dimensions for an 18 inch rock saw say 5.5 inches wide for cross gravity slabs. Stuffing the powerful little kiln with all it can handle as it has a lot of heating coils for it's size. Might as well stuff it as full as possible for each cook. Very early in this new endeavor. Built my first brick form yesterday for 5 pound bricks. Looking to make a form for 10 pound bricks. So will be converting all this loose glass into bricks for the 18 inch saw and/or hammering into tumbles. I got to get out there and screen about 800 pounds of very dirty glass from yesterday and get the sand and trash out of it. Best time to do it is right off the truck where it was loaded.
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Post by 1dave on Feb 8, 2018 10:39:47 GMT -5
You are in for a busy retirement.
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Post by HankRocks on Feb 8, 2018 10:42:04 GMT -5
Have you though about making some molds for the kiln that would create some shapes to be tumbled, ovals, tear drops etc. Suppose they would be carved directly into the firebrick? and use a liner? in the mold. How much glass to put in might be one issue.
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Post by toiv0 on Feb 8, 2018 11:26:44 GMT -5
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Post by toiv0 on Feb 8, 2018 11:29:06 GMT -5
When I do Dicroic glass I put a layer or two about 1.5 inches wide and of course the thickness of the glass then a fiber rope and top it with clear. I cut the pendants about 3/4 of an inch after firing then back in the kiln to round off the cuts. Be hard to do with glass crumbles.
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Post by aDave on Feb 8, 2018 12:31:14 GMT -5
Pretty sure 1.5 inches is all we get on the Ryobi Dave. My old tile saw does 2.5 inches. Ryobi for a coarse grinding tile saw blade. The old tile saw for a thin fine blade for cutting. I will install a drain on the Ryobi one way or another. To be drained into a bucket with a handle. Maybe an overhead gravity feed water supply. I guess you use a toy sand box shovel to clean out the reservoir. After sawing only 2 glass bricks I darn near filled the reservoir up with rock snot. The thick tile saw blade needs to be replaced with a thinner blade w/less kerf. Maybe a jewelry grade blade. Glass will never wear it out. I'll be glade to share the drain arrangement. May have to be Ruth Goldberg.... Pretty neat that your old saw does 2.5". That would certainly afford me more options. I'm fortunate I didn't have to figure out a water supply. I'm typically cutting in my backyard with the garden hose nearby, and I just let that trickle on the saw to keep the reservoir full. The garden hose also makes reservoir cleanouts easy. I just pull the drain plug and hose the thing out. No shoveling at all.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 12:53:01 GMT -5
You are in for a busy retirement. My most favorite form of entertainment in a long time Dave. And it is light duty for aging bones for once in my life.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 12:58:45 GMT -5
Pretty sure 1.5 inches is all we get on the Ryobi Dave. My old tile saw does 2.5 inches. Ryobi for a coarse grinding tile saw blade. The old tile saw for a thin fine blade for cutting. I will install a drain on the Ryobi one way or another. To be drained into a bucket with a handle. Maybe an overhead gravity feed water supply. I guess you use a toy sand box shovel to clean out the reservoir. After sawing only 2 glass bricks I darn near filled the reservoir up with rock snot. The thick tile saw blade needs to be replaced with a thinner blade w/less kerf. Maybe a jewelry grade blade. Glass will never wear it out. I'll be glade to share the drain arrangement. May have to be Ruth Goldberg.... Pretty neat that your old saw does 2.5". That would certainly afford me more options. I'm fortunate I didn't have to figure out a water supply. I'm typically cutting in my backyard with the garden hose nearby, and I just let that trickle on the saw to keep the reservoir full. The garden hose also makes reservoir cleanouts easy. I just pull the drain plug and hose the thing out. No shoveling at all. That saw has a hand crank Dave. Crank blade height 1/16 to 2.5 inches. Very simple. It also has an angle adjustment for the table from flat to 45 degrees. I paid $79 new from the Depot 20 years ago. It has set outside in the weather the whole time. Durable little saw. The cold weather cramps the garden hose convenience. The water in the hose is often frozen. Spring thru fall no problem. I will take heed to using the garden hose for cleaning the mud out. The trap door/table top sure is convenient.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 13:04:58 GMT -5
Have you though about making some molds for the kiln that would create some shapes to be tumbled, ovals, tear drops etc. Suppose they would be carved directly into the firebrick? and use a liner? in the mold. How much glass to put in might be one issue. I do have molds for cookie cutter cab/pendant shapes Henry. Just have not used them yet. The molds use up a lot of kiln space. So the use of molds will have to be optimized and compared to what shapes can be caused by tumbling.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 13:08:38 GMT -5
Thanks for this info Billy. I will be delving into this info tonight and in morning. Anxious to add wire/metal/gems and others in the glass. Got a Polish plate with insane additions in the cast. One of the favorites. The tumbler does well with the added metals and materials so far.
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Post by aDave on Feb 8, 2018 13:11:31 GMT -5
That saw has a hand crank Dave. Crank blade height 1/16 to 2.5 inches. Very simple. It also has an angle adjustment for the table from flat to 45 degrees. I paid $79 new from the Depot 20 years ago. It has set outside in the weather the whole time. Durable little saw. The cold weather cramps the garden hose convenience. The water in the hose is often frozen. Spring thru fall no problem. I will take heed to using the garden hose for cleaning the mud out. The trap door/table top sure is convenient. Sounds like a great little saw, James. I didn't see anything current with a height adjustment for the blade. Ahhh...freezing. Didn't even think about that due to being spoiled here. Not enough freezing days here to impact like it does in your neck of the woods. And yes, the removable deck makes cleanouts with the hose very, very easy. That's one nice thing I like about it.
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Wooferhound
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Post by Wooferhound on Feb 8, 2018 17:14:36 GMT -5
When I do Dicroic glass I put a layer or two about 1.5 inches wide and of course the thickness of the glass then a fiber rope and top it with clear. I cut the pendants about 3/4 of an inch after firing then back in the kiln to round off the cuts. Be hard to do with glass crumbles. In the stage lighting business we use colored acetate film (Gels) to color the light when needed. In recent times we have been using Dichroic glass instead of gels because it passes much more light and is more efficient. But the dichroic color filters are very expensive, so our theater only uses dichroics for the most common 4 colors Red, Blue, Green and Amber. In the short time that we have been using these filters, none of them have been broken so I don't have any to play with yet. They are quite interesting cause they change color with the angle that you look through them. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichroic_glass"A plate of dichroic glass can be fused with other glass in multiple firings. Due to variations in the firing process, individual results can never be exactly predicted, so each piece of fused dichroic glass is unique.[7] Over 45 colours of dichroic coatings are available to be placed on any glass substrate."
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 17:28:38 GMT -5
Oops, Wooferhound accidentally dropped the dichroic filter, what a shame. Let me clean it up...
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Wooferhound
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Post by Wooferhound on Feb 8, 2018 17:58:53 GMT -5
I was told that our Dichroic color filters cost $200.oo each (when purchased 5 years ago) and we have 36 of them totaling $7200. Looked them up and todays prices are $130 each in the 6.7 inch size that we use. www.apollodesign.net/color-filters/dichroics/dichroic-filters/6-69-round-175-mmThese are handled very carefully and when they are removed from the lighting fixture, are slid into slots of a storage box. I think they are only 1/16 inch thick.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 19:50:55 GMT -5
I was told that our Dichroic color filters cost $200.oo each (when purchased 5 years ago) and we have 36 of them totaling $7200. Looked them up and todays prices are $130 each in the 6.7 inch size that we use. www.apollodesign.net/color-filters/dichroics/dichroic-filters/6-69-round-175-mmThese are handled very carefully and when they are removed from the lighting fixture, are slid into slots of a storage box. I think they are only 1/16 inch thick. $, wow. about too thin too tumble anyway.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 8, 2018 19:59:18 GMT -5
Load of trash glass from the glass artist picked up yesterday, washed and screened the trash out on 13 buckets, got 7 more to go. Lots of work. Glass in pan is from another glass artist, totally different. ![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4709/39260334555_47565758aa_c.jpg) Yet to be washed and screened Seven more buckets to go for tomorrow ![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4714/28378759589_1a51b6cdcd_c.jpg) Close up of one from yesterday's haul. Great fusing stock. ![](https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4667/39260342325_124e74b028_c.jpg)
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