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Post by stardiamond on Nov 10, 2020 13:27:33 GMT -5
I faced an 8+ piece of rough from Tony and glued it to a board. I'll start slabbing on Thursday.  |
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darrad
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2006
Posts: 1,636
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Post by darrad on Nov 10, 2020 15:58:41 GMT -5
looks like that one is going to give you really nice slabs. Fingers crossed.  |
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catskillrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2008
Posts: 1,270
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Post by catskillrocks on Nov 11, 2020 12:14:54 GMT -5
That is a nice looking rock there.
I have a question: are you going to
slice it from the short end or the
wide face, and why? I'm trying to
learn to "read the rock" in order to
get the best patterns.
Thanks!
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 11, 2020 12:52:30 GMT -5
I glued the face to a board and will cut from the small end. I trimmed and slabbed both ends 90 degrees from the face so the rock wouldn't slip in the vise when I faced. The faced pattern was better than the slabs from the ends. I study a rock before deciding how I want to cut but slippage is my main concern. My saw has a little wrench that is used to tighten the knob. It doesn't work very well and I decided yesterday to use channel locks tighten. It scuffs the knob a little but it does a better job of tightening.
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller 
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Nov 11, 2020 14:00:09 GMT -5
Can you replace the knob business with a hex head bolt ? I swapped out a knob set up on my saw with a hex head and solved the slipping problem !
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 11, 2020 17:05:50 GMT -5
The knob is attached with a set screw. There is a nut between the knob and the vise that I tighten with a large crescent wrench.
My new blade is slightly out of round and the cutting has more vibration than I would like, but the blade cuts smoothly and according to Covington it will round with some use and that seems to be the case. I cut everything with a board after the rough has been faced and try to put the uncut edges in the vise. The cut edges tend to compress when squeezed. The channel locks allow for far greater tightening. Slabbing is something I don't do on a regular basis. I buy all my rough and am not like those who get to slab self collected material.
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 12, 2020 14:40:39 GMT -5
I got three pieces of rough from Tony. The first piece pictured is about twice as large as the others. I glued them to boards. My second favorite came off the board and I think I will try to reface and glue. This one stayed on the board.  |
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,723 
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Post by Fossilman on Nov 12, 2020 16:28:00 GMT -5
NICE!
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Nov 12, 2020 17:17:56 GMT -5
You should get lots of exceptional cabs out of that rough!
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 12, 2020 17:58:14 GMT -5
The big rock came off the board. I refaced but it came loose in the vise twice. I completed the cut but with two cuts it wasn't flat. I ground it a bit. I tried using cardboard between the rock and the board with the water glass. I'll try to slab the two pieces on Saturday. The pattern on the bigger piece goes all the way through.
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 14, 2020 12:58:38 GMT -5
The cardboard was a massive fail. I used the lids off a priority mail box and the saw oil quickly dissolved the cardboard.
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Post by HankRocks on Nov 14, 2020 13:21:16 GMT -5
The cardboard was a massive fail. I used the lids off a priority mail box and the saw oil quickly dissolved the cardboard. Have you used glue, or water glass? If glue what type? I might speculate that there was not enough time for the glue to dry(cure). I use wood glue and I allow a minimum of 5 to 6 days for smaller rocks less than about 3 inch on the end of 2X4's and 14 days on larger rocks glued to the pieces of 4X4. I am using interior rated wood glue. The only failures I have had were with smaller non-cut relatively flat sided rocks like West Texas Biscuits. For the bigger cuts on the 24" saw with the 4X4 glued material I always used previously cut material. |
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Post by stardiamond on Nov 14, 2020 13:33:30 GMT -5
I've had great success with water glass without cardboard. After doing some trimming the big piece is around 6+ pounds and I'm having a hard time getting a good facing surface. I just tried some gorilla wood glue and will give it some time to dry. I waited my standard two days with the water glass and it wasn't the glue that failed it was the cardboard getting soaked with oil. Maybe I needed cover all the surfaces to protect the cardboard.
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Post by woodman on Nov 14, 2020 13:42:26 GMT -5
Use super glue with accelerator. glue up and minutes later you can be cutting. never had the cardboard come apart in the oil with superglue.
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Nov 14, 2020 13:43:30 GMT -5
I've always assumed people used "craft board" or single layer cardboard for this instead of corrugated multilayer cardboard. Like an 18 pack of beer/cola comes in.
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Post by woodman on Nov 14, 2020 14:04:12 GMT -5
I've always assumed people used "craft board" or single layer cardboard for this instead of corrugated multilayer cardboard. Like an 18 pack of beer/cola comes in. I have used both the single layer and the corrugated cardboard with good results with super glue. |
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Nov 14, 2020 14:28:46 GMT -5
I've always assumed people used "craft board" or single layer cardboard for this instead of corrugated multilayer cardboard. Like an 18 pack of beer/cola comes in. I have used both the single layer and the corrugated cardboard with good results with super glue. Ever since seeing your first post about using this method, I often wondered how you kept the center (unaffected by or sealed by glue) part of the corrugated cardboard from becoming compromised by the oil... That's what led me to assume you used the single layer stuff.
I figured if the oil penetrated it, it would just fall off, like, well, wet paper.
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Post by catmandewe on Nov 14, 2020 14:32:16 GMT -5
I quit using waterglass after I had a few releases. I switched to elmers glue and it works most of the time but every once in a while it would let one go. I now use carpenters wood glue and have never had one fall off, it will not release in water so I just cut clear down to the wood now.
Cant wait to see the big one slabbed up!
Tony
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 14, 2020 14:56:37 GMT -5
I started using the expanding gorilla glue and zero fails so far. Nice thing is I don't have to face the stone if the surface I want to use is fairly close to flat, it just fills in and grabs like a gorilla.
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Post by stephan on Nov 14, 2020 21:15:04 GMT -5
I started using the expanding gorilla glue and zero fails so far. Nice thing is I don't have to face the stone if the surface I want to use is fairly close to flat, it just fills in and grabs like a gorilla. gorilla glue has always worked for me as well. Never failed. |
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Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
