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Post by Son Of Beach on Jan 1, 2024 19:00:56 GMT -5
That's a lot of grit to be left over from what I've experienced with this tumbler.
I'm curious how full your barrel was and how long you ran it, or maybe even how much grit you added?
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wseaton
starting to shine!
Member since January 2024
Posts: 30
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Post by wseaton on Jan 3, 2024 17:25:14 GMT -5
I've had a rebel 17 since fall and have pretty much have things dialed in.
As long as the seals are kept clean and wet when screwed down I've had no leaking.
As for speed, I was told to use the slower version and stuck with it to avoid bruising. However, bruising still happens in my version in later stages, and my solution is to only do a few big rocks at a time an use a LOT of cushioning media. So, my thoughts on this are if you only want to grind and shape with smaller stones get the faster version because it's just faster. For larger rocks like I want to do, which are 3-5" or even bigger get the slower version, or plan on doing only a couple at time with a LOT of cushioning media.
As for that clean out picture above I'm just lookng at grey pudding and no grit. My 17 when loaded right will break down 1/4 cup of silicon carbide 120-500 to nothing but grey pudding in 12 hours. When rinsed out there's no grinding media left - just pudding. 500 AO lasts longer, but I prefer SC because it has less tendency to embed in small cracks and fissures.
I also found #46 blasting media which is aluminum oxide is actually more efficient than 60/90 silicon carbide in terms of brute force shaping and much easier to clean out. I've heard that #80 AO doesn't work as well as silicon carbide, but want to try it for myself.
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Post by velodromed on Jan 3, 2024 22:38:42 GMT -5
I've had a rebel 17 since fall and have pretty much have things dialed in. As long as the seals are kept clean and wet when screwed down I've had no leaking. As for speed, I was told to use the slower version and stuck with it to avoid bruising. However, bruising still happens in my version in later stages, and my solution is to only do a few big rocks at a time an use a LOT of cushioning media. So, my thoughts on this are if you only want to grind and shape with smaller stones get the faster version because it's just faster. For larger rocks like I want to do, which are 3-5" or even bigger get the slower version, or plan on doing only a couple at time with a LOT of cushioning media. As for that clean out picture above I'm just lookng at grey pudding and no grit. My 17 when loaded right will break down 1/4 cup of silicon carbide 120-500 to nothing but grey pudding in 12 hours. When rinsed out there's no grinding media left - just pudding. 500 AO lasts longer, but I prefer SC because it has less tendency to embed in small cracks and fissures. I also found #46 blasting media which is aluminum oxide is actually more efficient than 60/90 silicon carbide in terms of brute force shaping and much easier to clean out. I've heard that #80 AO doesn't work as well as silicon carbide, but want to try it for myself. 60 AO doesn’t work near as well as SC so 80 AO probably won’t either. It is good for final course runs as it leaves the rocks pre-polished and ready for polishing I’ve found. I’ll try the 46 AO in the near future. |
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wseaton
starting to shine!
Member since January 2024
Posts: 30
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Post by wseaton on Jan 4, 2024 2:04:18 GMT -5
I\ve been working on some 6" pieces of rough jasper and the #46 AO does seem to chew them faster than 60/90 SC in my 17. My suspicion is while the SC is technically harder once it shatters it rapidly loses the ability to do anything other than make grey pudding. Theory at least. 46 AO on the other hand hangs in there for longer. Ultimately a scale test is the only real scientific way to to tell. Right now it's just subjective observation.
One thing I can't quite wrap my head around is 120/220 and finer SC gets obliterated at an astonishing rate when I'm tumbling large rocks because I have so much media for cushioning. 5lbs of large ceramic only fills the 17 less than 1/3 way and yet quarter cups of SC 120/220 and 500 turn to goo in a time span of hours. But 60/90 is a lot more stubborn. So, I'm looking for the goldilocks grade that's a step finer 60/90. 80 seems like the logical choice to try.
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stefan
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Jan 5, 2024 18:10:58 GMT -5
The barrel was 3/4 full (maybe a little less). 60/90 grit about 1.5 cups (I just used my pre-measured cup that I use on my Model B. Company did get back to me. They wondered if the liner had any extra rubber around the seam (it doesn't) and if the lid liner could have gotten bunched or wrinkled (it didn't). Finally they thought that the thumb screws were not tight enough (possible). They recommend cross hatched install, snug down evenly, then go and put a final twist on each one (My Model B I install evenly and just snug down- never leaks). THis is what I did (plus added the washers) and on day 4 still no leaks. As for the mud on the bottom, this had settled for a good 20 minutes as I was cleaning up the mess. The company did ask me to update them again if I run into any more leaks.
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andyiii
off to a rocking start
Member since May 2024
Posts: 21
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Post by andyiii on Jun 19, 2024 0:24:05 GMT -5
Hey folks,
Reviving this thread once again.
I just started my first run in my new Rebel 17 (slow speed, drum rolls at 20 RPM). I used one cup (16 tbsp) of 60/90 for stage 1.
If I decide on doing stage 2 in this larger drum as well, what "recipe" do y'all recommend? I use the basic 4 stages: 60/90 SiC, 220 SiC, and AO for pre-polish and final polish. I also have both ceramic and plastic media available, as well as Borax.
I have some basic clay kitty litter, but no idea how, or how much, of that to use; haven't tried it yet.
Thanks,
Andy III
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