herb
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 475
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Post by herb on Jul 28, 2022 10:53:10 GMT -5
I will ask the obvious, you did have enough oil in the saw? It the blade is not damaged I think I would pick a nice smaller blockish rock that easy to clamp for a test cut. You can just spin the blade and see if it has developed a wobble. Hi there! I dont mind any questions obvious or otherwise. There is enough oil, yes. It full covers the sintering of the blade, about 3/8 of an inch. Do you mean that the oil is 3/8 of an inch above the sintering or that is how much of the blade is in oil? Usually people recommend the oil goes about 1/4 inch above the sintering. I used to use the cheap Kingsley blades (18 inch in my case). They worked ok and lasted reasonably long for the price. Then they once had them on sale. I forgot the price but it was like 40% lower than normal. I got 1 of each of the 2 saws I have. Both blades ended up dishing after a relatively short time. Diamond on the blade is still good, but they are dished. Slices would start the correct thickness but end thinner. Flip the blade around and the slices would start correct thickness but end thicker! I ended up getting a MK303 blade and have not had any issues at all with it |
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MetaMoose
having dreams about rocks
@MetaMoosehead on Twitter
Member since July 2021
Posts: 74
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Post by MetaMoose on Jul 28, 2022 12:33:50 GMT -5
I was able to confirm a cupped blade. Laying it in the table, the middle popped up nearly a cm. Thank you all for the kind support and insight.
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Post by victor1941 on Jul 28, 2022 17:19:55 GMT -5
Sherp, I am going to show you the method I use to secure and mount the irregular shapes or less desirable shapes safely for cutting. The surface must be clean and not crumbly for the adhesive to work properly. I mount the rock to a wood base by using Loctite construction adhesive -$6-11 and let dry for 24 hours or until firm before cutting. I rub the adhesive on both pieces and make sure no gaps occur when placed together. Wedges and blocks can be fitted in as needed for this step. Wedges and blocks can also be used in the vice to exactly position the piece to be cut. Sometimes a face cut rock can be removed and remounted using sodium silicate. I’ve included several pictures as examples.   |
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stefan
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Aug 3, 2022 13:25:37 GMT -5
Just my 2 cents worth. I would check the blade alignment when you get a new blade. As a general rule new blades generally are not cupped. That blade got VERY hot and I would be hesitant to try to straighten it and reuse it. You're going to want to check the vise alignment as well. I do honestly feel this rock shifted in the vise, but at the cost of a new blade it is worth checking arbor and vise alignment.
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Post by HankRocks on Aug 3, 2022 13:53:19 GMT -5
Agree with checking the alignment. I use a wooden dowel clamped into the vice and have it so that a 1/8 inch shim just fits between dowel and front edge pf blade. Then as I move the vice forward, keep checking that the shim still fits. In my case I had to adjust the blade arbor a bit to get an even alignment across the diameter of the blade. A small mis-alignment will make a big difference on a long cut.
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