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Post by Larry White on Oct 12, 2004 15:38:37 GMT -5
Running a new V5 raytech vib tumbler since mid August. Nothing stronger than 120-220 grit.Has worn a hole at bottom,where wall bends.Any one think Raytech would help, less than 2 months,if not has anyone repaired one. Larry
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Post by puppie96 on Oct 13, 2004 3:01:01 GMT -5
Hi, same thing happened to me, I contacted the dealer from whom I purchased it, they set up a R/A # with Raytech and shipping instructions for me to return it, Raytech replaced the bowl. This one wore out too fast, also. Recontacted dealer. Again Raytech replaced it, saying, this time, "no more." I was given an 800 number to call Raytech and discuss use of the equipment & was I doing something wrong. I'm sorry to say I never used the number, probably should have. I am still wearing out bowls way too fast and it sounds like the same thing happens to everybody. One slipup can cause a lot of damage. So I would contact the dealer and work through them.
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Post by cookie3rocks on Oct 13, 2004 21:06:15 GMT -5
I have a raytech5 as well, and, originaly, used one bowl for all grits. The first bowl wore through in about 3 1/2 months. I repaired it with silicone calk to get me through polish till a new bowel arrived and then ordered one more. I now use one for coarse/med and one for pre polish/polish. I've gone 4 months on these 2 barrels and they seem fine. The coarse barrel has taken a beating because the stones have gotten stuck at the bottem for long periods of time (while I was at work) and made some dents in the base. But, over all, I am satisfied with them and just kinda expect to order new barrels about every 6 months. At least I don't have to buy belts and the moter just hums along. ;D
cookie
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Oct 14, 2004 8:48:25 GMT -5
I also have TV5 I got in April that has run almost 24/7. The bowl I use for coarse gets alot more use than the other and thus far I have seen no indication that is is wearing thin and might develope a whole. A couple of weeks ago I cut up an old tube and lined the bowls with it - not so much to prevent holes, but to cut down on the noise. It sure works for the noise! The rubber I used on the side came off of the course bowl and the whole lining came off the pre-polish barrel. I think that was because I didn't use the right kind of glue. I am going to try again using some serious epoxy as soon as I have the time to sit down and do it.
I did have a screw break that holds the motor in place and ended up ordering a new base. Motor is fine, but getting inside to do repair work is a *****. I cut the springs and got some springs to replace them, now I just have to sit down and get the glue or whatever out so I can put the new ones in. And I also have to remember to take one of the screws with me next time I go to Lowes and get a replacement for it. The motor is the same as a Lortone motor and these things would be easy to repair if they were made where it was easy to get inside.
I wonder if the hole problem is caused by the rocks getting dehydrated and sticking to the bottom?
Puppies, do still have that 800 number?
llana
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Post by Larry White on Oct 14, 2004 21:35:24 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies.Raytech is send me a new bowl thru my dealer.They said running too dry,overload or too much grit will will cause failure well I probally did it all.Am going to repair this one with epoxy and the spray with an auto under coat.
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Post by puppie96 on Oct 15, 2004 3:30:46 GMT -5
Llana, I'm sorry, but I don't have the 800 number anymore. It probably wasn't anything that's not available at the Raytech website, but I haven't looked lately. BTW, I did order yet another bowl today. Yes, I do think that running dry wears through the bowls. I don't get holes exactly, the bowl thins in the area where the joint is; where the sides meet the base. Finally one day while you are washing them out the side goes flexible on you. Oops! I tried reinforcing one of them with a gluey type substance that sounded promising and the first time I used it strips of the gts came off in the tumble and by now the coating on the inside is about gone. But the bowl hasn't leaked (yet). My opinions: very rough and/or very large rock contributes to this. be careful of putting in even one rock that might be too big to move freely, especially when starting the rough grind. if the big rock gets lodged it can get the whole batch stuck in one place where each rock vibes away, eating away at each one's special spot on the side of the bowl, while you are at work. Dehydration basically promotes the same outcome. Insufficient tightening of the nuts causes odd results. Leakage breaking through a thin bowl drys out the batch, makes the slow leak worse, and leaves something akin to cement on your rocks. Bringing everybody cheery news, as always!
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Oct 15, 2004 8:39:09 GMT -5
puppies, I am sure I can find the number. Am just lazy and seeing if you still had it was easier tha searching for it myself. I still need to write them a letter and voice my opinion on building this tumbler without allowing for access to the motor so that it can be repaired. I very rarely put rough rough in the vibe. I prefer the rotary for shaping, then when I get the shape right I move them to the vibe and run them a couple of days in 100 then move on to the rest of the stages. I have been using 2 tsp of grit and 2 tbls water if the rocks are wet, 4 if dry and haven't had any problem with dehydration or the rocks sticking to the bottom. And I completely clean the rocks and bowl before recharging about every 12 hrs. or so. If I let them go much longer that that, they end up stuck in the muck. I used contact glue on one bowl and just plain old Elmers on the other. The contact glue has worked pretty well for keeping the rubber pad on the bottom of the barrel, but the side stuff came off after the first run, as did the one with the Elmers. I have several different kinds of epoxy and I am going to try one of them. I think if the rubber will stick in place and stay, it will prevent the bowl wearing through. Seems it would also work for repairing any cracks or leaks. Of course, getting the rubber cut right and glued in is a lulu! Glad I used something besides a serious epoxy on my first try, or I would have had rubber glued to me! ;D llana Forgot to add that the few times I have started rough rough in the vibe without first washing them,I had a serious stuck in the muck problem. Washing them first helped a bit.
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Post by puppie96 on Oct 17, 2004 1:23:23 GMT -5
Hi Llana, I often end up doing rough grind in the vibe, especially after a week in the barrel seems to have done nothing. This is a patience issue. Yes, they will get gummed up way faster when they are just starting out. I still think that 2 tsp. grit to two TBSP (not tsp) of water is too much. Their instructions are 2tsp to 2tsp if the rock is wet. I do put in a little more than that often, but it also depends on how new or rough the rock is. I definitely have noticed that the grind will be slowed by excessive water. Suggest that you try going way way down on the water on a day when you can check it often to make sure it isn't drying out and see if you get different results.
Seems like what we really need is something that would be a reinforcing coating that we could paint these with. Surely there is something like that out there.
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Oct 17, 2004 9:33:34 GMT -5
puppies, I rarely start rough in the vibe - only when it's sitting empty and I can't stand it and toss some rough in there. Patience isn't really the problem anymore cause with the grinder and all my other projects, I sometimes don't even recharge my barrels when I am suppose to! I have had good success with shaping the rocks in the rotary now that I have adjusted the barrel contents - little less that 3/4 full and alot less water. Getting a nice thick slurry and after the first week, usually shaping up real nice. I keep them in the rotary until they are very close to where I want them to be then move them to the vibe in 100 for a few days to finish off the last little bit before moving to medium. As far as the 2 tsps vs 2 tbls water, I have experiemented with varying amounts of water and 2 tbls wet or 4 tbls dry is what works for me. I rarely have the rocks stick to the bottom, and I get the results I desire. The vibe is like the rotary, you experiment until you get the desired result then go with it. I get the desired result with 2 tbls of water. Some kind of coating would sure be great and much simplier than lining the bowls with something. Got to go to Lowes one day this week and will ask about something that might do the trick. llana
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Post by connrock on Oct 17, 2004 12:17:35 GMT -5
Hi Guys and Gals, It sounds like you're all having problems with the Raytech bowls!! That's a real bummer. Abrasives act in a strange way on different materials and in fact just the opposite of what one may think. I was a pipefitter for over 25 years and one of our jobs was to maintain a system in the foundry that transported silicone sand which was used to make "cores"(molds for pouring iron). The sand was blown with high pressure air through 4" schedule 80 pipe, (schedule 40 is standard pipe)which we pre-bent before installation and traveled throughout the foundry some 400' and rose to a height of between 60'-80'. What this system really was a giant contained sand blaster!!It wore out the pipe faster then we could repair it!We welded steel patches on the worn areas and would return the next day to re-patch the same leaks!! (job security?? LOL) One day a foundry millwright suggested using apiece of "live gum rubber" for the patch instead of the steel.Hey,,,,,Why not give it a try??At least we won't have to haul our welding leads up to God's country,,,,,,and above!!LOL Well that first rubber patch was installed around 1972 and when the foundry was shut down in 1983 the patch was still there!! Just think of the Lortone tumbler barrels,,,,,Has anyone worn one of them out?? Tom
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Post by puppie96 on Oct 18, 2004 2:48:56 GMT -5
WOW! Interesting point. So can you recommend a rubberized type coating that might work?
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Post by connrock on Oct 18, 2004 17:40:00 GMT -5
I don't really know of anything but I'll check with the head of our labratory and see if he can help. We do tests for every major rubber and plastic company world wide in our lab so maybe we'll hit a home run,,,,,,,,,, Like the Red Sox!! Tom
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Post by sandsman1 on Oct 18, 2004 18:19:37 GMT -5
hi all how about this before i got hurt i was selling ruberized undercoating for cars it comes in a spray can like paint there where two kinds one stayed wet or should i say pliable and one dried after it went on its worth a try prob about 4 or 5 bucks a can and you can spray a few coats and let each one dri build up a good coat and if you wanted to you could cut a plastic patch and glue it let it drie then coatit and the water and grit would never get to the glue
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Post by puppie96 on Oct 18, 2004 23:15:09 GMT -5
Sandsman, how can we get this miracle product?
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RedwoodRocks
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2003
Posts: 762
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Post by RedwoodRocks on Oct 19, 2004 0:18:18 GMT -5
Many years ago, I worked in a old fashioned hardware store (before Home Depot drove em out of business), they sold this liquid plastic stuff. I used it for dipping metal handles (like pliers) to make the pliers easier to handle. After some 20 plus years, the plastic coating is still sticking to the pliers.
You might check out a hardware store to see if they still sell the stuff. Sorry, but I don't recall the name of it.
Cal
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Post by sandsman1 on Oct 19, 2004 23:50:06 GMT -5
the stuff cal is talking about is called DIP-IT ----------------------the rubber under coat should be in any automotive store just ask for under coating for a car it comes in a spray can like a can of paint
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llanago
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2004
Posts: 1,714
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Post by llanago on Oct 19, 2004 23:54:54 GMT -5
Thanks Sands - going to town tomorrow and will have to stop at NAPA or CarQuest to see if they have it.
llana
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RedwoodRocks
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2003
Posts: 762
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Post by RedwoodRocks on Oct 22, 2004 1:06:28 GMT -5
Hmmmmm, they call it "Dip It", but it comes in a spray can. Does anyone else see the oxymoron (not sure this is the right term)? But, I bet if the stuff is applied to the underside of a car, it is easier to spray on than trying to dip your car in it!
Sorry, its getting very late. Cal
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