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Post by sitnwrap on Jun 17, 2008 13:48:29 GMT -5
I figured a way to make my own toggles. With the price of silver flying, it’s a great way to make use of scrap or excess wire. I know my skill is novice but figure others can add to this easy and basic design. Just make sure you file down your cut ends. Hammer with a ball peen hammer and steel block, the loop and tee of the toggle to give it strength. Do the hammering before you wrap the Tee with ½ round dead soft wire. If any newbies would like written instruction, let me know and I will try to type something up that makes sense. Lol. I use 20 and 18 g dead soft round wire. The pics were taken with a friends phone that has internet options. I got to get me one of those!
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AGATEGRRRL
spending too much on rocks
AGATEGRRRL
Member since October 2007
Posts: 466
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Post by AGATEGRRRL on Jun 17, 2008 20:17:59 GMT -5
Hi, I'd like directions for those. It's kinda hard to tell how they're made from the photos. Thanks for sharing the great information!
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Post by sitnwrap on Jun 18, 2008 2:41:21 GMT -5
Hi Agategrrrl,
These instruction may seem tedious but if you copy and past it to your word doc and then print it out, you will be able to read the instructions while looking at the pics and it will probably be a lot easier to follow.
Supplies:
Needle nose pliers Flat nose pliers Flush cutters File ruler Ball peen hammer Metal block Anything round in shape that has a 1/2” diameter (I use a crayola magic marker) which will allow you to form a circle with your wire. I have to improvise on some of the tools needed as my tool set is not complete yet.
Wire:
For loop: Approx 2” length of 20g dead soft round
For T : Approx 3” length of 20g dead soft round Approx 2” length of ½ round dead soft Straighten the wire by running it through you fingers
Instruction for the loop part of the toggle:
With your needle nose pliers take the end of the 2” length of dead soft round wire and make a loop. I use a little further than the middle of the pliers so the loop is not too small.
Then continue to wrap the wire around your round object that you have chosen to use (I use the crayola marker) to shape the larger loop. Remember to wrap it in the opposite direction from the smaller loop (it should look like a misproportioned figure 8 pattern). When you have completed the large loop, continue to wrap once around the point between the small loop and the large loop. This wrap should cover the end of the wire that began the small loop (you can wrap twice if you wish, just make certain that the smaller loop is large enough to accommodate the extra wrap).
Snip the wire with the flush cutters and very carefully file that end to ensure there is not a sharp point that could scratch skin. Use the flat nose pliers to press the end tightly.
With your ball peen hammer,lay the large loop on your steel block lightly tap the large loop a couple of times. You do not want to completely flatten it so tap lightly. Also, do not hammer the point where you wrapped between the small and large loop. Do the same for the small loop.
Instructions for the T:
Take the 3” length dead soft round and grab the end of the wire with the end of your needle nose plyers and turn to make a very small circle and then turn again so the end is neatly inside the circle.
With the ruler, measure 1and ¼” long from the loop (a little longer is ok but you will have to refigure the mid point of the T, and the mid point is very important.). Grab the wire at the1 1/4" point with your flat nose pliers and bend the wire so it reverses direction and is running parallel and back towards the other end. Now, measure your T again and grab the wire with the flat nose pliers at mid point (5/8”) of the T and bend the wire to a 90 degree angle so the wire is now running perpendicular to the T.
At this point, you want to stop and gently hammer the T from end to end (Do not hammer the wire that is running at the 90 degree angle.) The end of the T that is doubled in wire, may spread due to the hammering, just take your flat nose at the bend that has spread and squeeze gently to bring it back together.
Now take your ½ round wire and wrap 3 times on the side of the T that is doubled in wire, cross over the parallel wire and continue to wrap 2 more times. Clip the excess ends of the ½ round wrap at both ends, file the ends to make certain they are not sharp and then flatten the ends against the T with the flat nose pliers.
Last stage is to create the end loop for the T.
From the 90 degree angle measure out ¼” and cut the wire and file the end. Grab the end of the wire with your needle nose (the wire should be positioned about mid point in your needle nose. Turn the wire back towards the T. You want the loop that you are making to be small and also end right at the bend of the right angle. If this loop is too large, it will be difficult for the T to slide through the loop that you created to accept the T.
Also, with this last loop, you need to be very careful with how much pressure you use with your needle nose. I find that needle nose pliers tend to mark up the silver, and any loops created to hold the wire for the necklace has to be free of nicks or marks as the nicks could eventually cut the necklace wire.
If you can, give this last loop a tap with your hammer but make sure you only tap the loop. Tap only once and if the loop spreads, just use your flat nose pliers to close the gap.
Good luck, and if you figure out a better variation, I would love your instructions. Oh, any questions, feel free to pm me.
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AGATEGRRRL
spending too much on rocks
AGATEGRRRL
Member since October 2007
Posts: 466
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Post by AGATEGRRRL on Jun 18, 2008 13:36:05 GMT -5
Thanks Sitnwrap! Let me know if I can ever repay the favor.
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