|
Post by akansan on May 7, 2009 13:49:28 GMT -5
I picked up two used saws recently - a 10" Frantom and a 16" homemade. Both saws components are sound, but the auto-feeds on both need a little tinkering. The 10" is a weight-driven system, but the cable is busted and terribly kinked (and a little frayed) from where the guy just tied it in a knot to make it look like it was attached. (I didn't fall for it ) Because of the way the vice slides across the surface, whatever line/cable I use is going to need to be fairly slim, right? Any suggestions on getting the auto-feed back working on this guy? What would be best to use for a line? Advice on optimum weight? Also, for anyone that's familiar with the Frantom 10" - is this a drain? The saw has one screw that is stuck, making it so I can't get the table off quite yet (working on that), so I just wanted to check on that. If it's not a drain, then I'm going to add one somehow before I fill the thing.
|
|
|
Post by texaswoodie on May 7, 2009 14:52:54 GMT -5
Ronda Go to Ace Hardware and pick up some thin cable. They have doomawhichies that you can use to make ends and stops for the cable. I hate to get so technical with you, but that's all I know to call them. Curt
|
|
Wolfden
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2007
Posts: 1,368
|
Post by Wolfden on May 7, 2009 15:38:47 GMT -5
I would put a ring through the hole in the vise bottom , where he has the cable going through it , and then use a clip to attach the cable or even twine to ..
Wolf
|
|
Mudshark
fully equipped rock polisher
Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock. Will Rogers
Member since December 2008
Posts: 1,083
|
Post by Mudshark on May 7, 2009 15:41:06 GMT -5
That does look like a drain,can you get the plug out?If the owner used water for coolant it might be corroded and will take a little tinkering to get it out.I replaced the plug on my 10 inch saw with a ball valve to make draining a little easier. Does the hole where the cable attaches have threads in it?If it does you might want to put a screw eye in it so your cable isnt dragging on the table top which will eventually cause it to wear out. Covington recommends no more than 10 lbs for weight.You should go by how large and hard the rock is.This will take a little experimenting to find how much weight to use so you dont burn the blade out.A lot of people use a jug filled with sand to adjust the amount of weight they need. Mike
|
|
|
Post by akansan on May 7, 2009 16:49:00 GMT -5
Ooo - screw eye would be enormously helpful there. I'll have to double check about the threads.
The drain doesn't appear to have any sort of stopper in it. I'll be able to tell more when I get the top off (that's definitely happening tonight), but it's almost as if they just turned the valve up and are using that as the depth gauge. When water comes out of the valve - too much fluid.
|
|
Saskrock
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2007
Posts: 1,852
|
Post by Saskrock on May 7, 2009 22:26:27 GMT -5
I have the same frantom saw. That is a drain plug. I am using some lead core fly fishing line as a cable now (changed it tonight). I was using a chunk of craft wire but it broke the other day. I use a plastic bottle with about 2 liters of water as a weight. Mine has a lid on it though (maybe homemade) I`m using mineral oil but it really seems to throw it around. Might want to add one.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on May 8, 2009 8:34:55 GMT -5
Ronda, I've had two of those. I think there was a hook attached to the vise for the cable. I've seen cord attached to old Highland Park saws so doesn't have to be cable. Mine had 1/4" pipe plugs for drains which never worked as sludge would plug it up. I always had to remove the 3 screws and pull the table off. It was easiest to remove the tank and wsh it out. Yours has a giant hole. I'd cut a 1/2" pipe coupling in half and either epoxy or solder it into the hole. You might actually get it to drain then. I also rebuilt the vise on one. I replaced the rod and the brass bushings in the vise from Ace Hardware pull out drawers. It has to slide easily to work. The owner of MK told me he new the makers of the Frantom equipment. A couple named "Fran" and "Tom". Just a bit of trivia. Properly filled (cover the cutting rim of the blade only) and don't lift the blade guard up to high and it shoudn't throw oil around. I only hand fed mine so can't help with weight. At 3.5" maximum andwith a good blade it will cut pretty fast anyway.
|
|
|
Post by Woodyrock on May 8, 2009 9:58:43 GMT -5
I too have a ten inch Frantom. I usually hand feed, but have used the 'automatic' using a five pound dive weight with a piece of cord. There should be a piece of wire that fits in the the two small holes to the the left of the blade for the vise to run on so it is not running on the deck. BTW, I tried using the drain plug......like John said, it is easier to just take the top off. Woody
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on May 8, 2009 19:38:20 GMT -5
I'm guessing someone tried putting a bigger drain fitting and it didn't stay in. The hole is definitely not original size.
|
|
|
Post by akansan on May 9, 2009 18:48:34 GMT -5
The actual drain is probably only 1/2" at most. It's a 90 degree elbow pointing up that you see there.
Now - is there a way to remove screws when the screwhead breaks off? That happened to the one that was stuck...which means the top of the table is now off. However, after removing the tabletop, it looks like the other one (where I thought it was just missing a screw) also broke off. So now the only screw that works to attach the table is the one that attaches to through the side. Someone I don't think one screw will be enough to securely attach the top to the base...
|
|
|
Post by Woodyrock on May 10, 2009 1:30:09 GMT -5
The answer to the broken screw is yes, there is a way to remove the piece left. The tool required is called an easy out. This will require you to drill a hole into the broken piece, then insert the easy out and then unscrew the broken piece. First, it would be best to give the broken screw a dose of penetrating oil such as Kroil. You do not want to break the easy out since it is hardened steel, and nearly impossible to drill out. Before you drill the hole into the broken screw, you willl want to centre punch it so the drill go down the centre. The jarring from the centre punching will also help to loosen it. Woody
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on May 10, 2009 8:57:40 GMT -5
I see the elbow now. For some reason it looked like one big hole. Easy out should do it. I don't remember how thick the casting is. You might be able to drill out the screws and tap a larger size. If you can't tackle it any machine shop/automotive machine shop should be able to extract the screws. I hate to sound sexist but ladies can generally get things like this done cheaply with a smile and a bat of the eyes whereas ugly old men not so much.
|
|
|
Post by akansan on May 23, 2009 14:09:57 GMT -5
DID YOU KNOW...
That if you use steel screws/bolts on a cast aluminum frame, the two metals will corrode together, making even tapping the screw/bolt out difficult? My local machine shop actually turned me down! It looks like I'm going to have to take the saw down to my dad and let him be a hero. His comment was that he spent years in the military fixing mistakes like these caused by idiots, and it's still not something he enjoyed. Screwing this up would be very easy, according to him.
So there goes that project for this weekend. Guess I'll go play with something else, instead.
|
|
bushmanbilly
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2008
Posts: 4,719
|
Post by bushmanbilly on May 23, 2009 19:57:10 GMT -5
Here is an idea that might just work. Try drilling the old plug out and use a plug like those in a boat. They expand to make a tight fit.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on May 23, 2009 22:13:06 GMT -5
Ronda, it is called galvanic corrosion. If the saw was used with oil it would not be a problem. The screws would have come right out. If you use it with water use brass screws or coat threads with a little grease.
|
|
|
Post by akansan on May 24, 2009 7:06:55 GMT -5
We have a second plan I'm going to try today. There's just enough of the two screws showing above the rim that I can grab them with a tiny pair of vice grips. I'm going to heat the screw to a nice dull red, shoot it with sewing machine oil, and then see if I can get it out.
This just shows I should definitely use oil with this new machine!
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on May 24, 2009 8:24:25 GMT -5
My first and only saw at the time was a Frantom just like it. I used mineral oil. I stock piled oil sensitive rock until the oil was really dirty then cleaned saw, filled with water, cut the oil sensitive stuff, drained, dried and refilled with clean oil. It always came apart easily. The last one I sold in January. It had Roc-Oil in it and sat unused for several years. Came apart for cleaning with no problem. Any metal bodied saw should have water drained after use and dried. Even the water soluble coolants won't stop corrosion. Blades cool better with oil also.
|
|