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Post by morerockspleaz on Nov 17, 2011 10:40:39 GMT -5
How do you replace the threaded rod for the uv 10? I have run out of washers so it is time to replace the rod. Of course it is in the middle a tumble. I have a replacement for it, just unsure how to go about doing it.
Thanks, BeLinda
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 17, 2011 10:47:20 GMT -5
If it is like Raytech it will have a lock nut at bottom. Loosen it and unscrew the allthread.
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Post by 150FromFundy on Nov 17, 2011 17:40:55 GMT -5
I have replaced the rod twice on my UV-10. It is a chore, but it is doable.
(1) You first have to buy some threaded rod from a hardware store. Not sure if it is 1/4" or 3/8". Be sure to check. You will also need a hack saw and a file to cut the threaded rod to length.
(2) You then have to peel up the cushion pad that the bowl rests on. If you are careful, you can reuse it, but chances are you will tear it up. I bought peel & stick cork pad from Michaels to replace mine. It will take a few layers to build up enough cushion.
(3) You then have to remove the screws that secure the top top the bottom with the springs. The screw heads will now be exposed since you have peeled off the cushion pad.
(4) You then have to remove the motor from the top. Once again, the screw heads will now be exposed since you have peeled off the cushion pad.
(5) Now you can finally access the threaded rod to replace it.
(6) Re-attach the motor.
(7) Re-attach the top to the base with the springs.
(8) Before you re-attach (or replace) the cushion pad, use some silcone sealant where the threaaded rod connects to the top. This will prevent an spills from dripping into the motor which is directly beneath the threaded rod.
(8) Re-attach (or replace) the cushion pad.
I told you it was a chore! If you get stuck, PM me.
Good luck.
Darryl.
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Post by morerockspleaz on Nov 17, 2011 19:31:40 GMT -5
Oh wow and I thought it would be an easy fix not such a big ordeal. I am going to try to limp by with this load and see if I can make it to the end. I wonder if you could cut the rod off above the pad and use two locking nuts to attach a new rod?
BeLinda
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Post by 150FromFundy on Nov 18, 2011 7:11:04 GMT -5
Belinda - You're fix is way too easy! I guess I was focussed on replacement rather than repair. The trick would be finding a threaded sleeve or locking nuts that would give you enough thread bite on each side of the spliced rod to hold it together.
Along the same lines, if you knew someone with a torch, you could braze (weld) the spliced rod together. That would hold better than the threaded sleeve and would not be prone to vibrating loose.
Darryl.
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Post by morerockspleaz on Nov 18, 2011 8:01:45 GMT -5
Darryl I would rather replace the rod, but at this point I am hoping to get by with a quick fix as I have a Titan torn down right now and just really do not want another project right now. I do have a welder coming out this afternoon and I will ask him to braze it just to get by for now. I will let you know if it works properly or I just need to tear into it.
Is it possibe to find a better quality rod that will hold up better than the original?
BeLinda
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Post by morerockspleaz on Nov 18, 2011 18:20:09 GMT -5
I had the welder braze a new section of rod on with a nut where both rods connect. I have reassembled and it is working so far like a charm. I left enough rod on the original piece so if this holds I can replace it if needed when the threads strip out again. Took 10 min. tops for cuttting and braze. Sorry for the blurry pic but here it is. BeLInda
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 18, 2011 21:11:26 GMT -5
I had not thought about using a threaded coupling. If the rod wears away only the top, cutting below the bowl and using a threaded coupling would make future replacements really easy. In case somebody doesn't know you can cut off allthread or any bolt by screwing on two nuts, tighten together, and cut off flush with top nut. Usually does not damage threads. You can clamp in a vise at the nuts and the threaded rod won't turn while cutting. You should be able to find threaded couplings in the hardware drawers in any hardware supply.
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Post by morerockspleaz on Nov 18, 2011 22:17:08 GMT -5
This was an easy fix-how long it last who knows-in theory it should last as long as the threads hold out. For less than 50 cents I am back up and running. I will keep Darryls post bookmarked for future use though. Thanks Darryl and John for your help.
BeLinda
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