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Post by paulshiroma on Feb 11, 2012 17:04:02 GMT -5
Hi Folks: Got a quick question for you all. I was replacing my saw blade today and figured on cleaning up the oil resevoir as long as I had the table top and blade off. After cleaning up all the left over gunk, I noticed that the bottom of the resevoir has a section that appears to have been rusted out. The area hasn't been completely "hulled" so nothing is leaking out the base of the housing. I was considering using Plasti-dip on this area but I'm still a rookie with this equipment. Is there a better repair solution or should I just buy a new housing? Best photos I could get of the area in question. You can see the drain pipe in the side of the photo. The the right and slighly "above" the line of the drain pipe, you can see the pitted area. Reverse angle: The unit is used and over 10 years old and was given to me free so I'm not complaining! Sort of turning into a home-improvement project, though Thanks for the advice and recommendations. Paul
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Post by rockmanken on Feb 11, 2012 17:42:11 GMT -5
JB Weld.
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Feb 11, 2012 17:47:29 GMT -5
or a sump liner of some sort!
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jockstrap
having dreams about rocks
Member since December 2011
Posts: 56
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Post by jockstrap on Feb 11, 2012 19:15:10 GMT -5
I would wire brush the area until bare metal. Make sure it's dry and free of oil. Then coat the surface with Devcon. When fully cured, grind or sand it smooth and use a polyurethane coating on it. I guarantee that if the area is prepared properly, the Devcon will still be there even if the rest rusts away.
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Post by paulshiroma on Feb 11, 2012 20:38:55 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll go do some research now! Paul
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Post by catmandewe on Feb 11, 2012 20:49:10 GMT -5
There is a new solution called Metal Rescue that dissolves rust that works pretty well. You can also soak it in Muriatic acid for a while and that will get rid of the rust, then coat it with your choice of whatever rust preventative you want to use, this is assuming this is a water saw, if it is an oil saw just refill with oil after you get rid of the rust, the oil will coat the metal for rust prevention.
Tony
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 11, 2012 20:57:52 GMT -5
If you are using oil and it isn't leaking it won't rust anymore. I've had pretty good luck with JB Weld too. You will have to get it really clean for anything to work.
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Post by helens on Feb 11, 2012 22:10:28 GMT -5
Quick notes on JBWeld: Our flagship product, J-B WELD is the world's finest cold-weld compound. It's a remarkably easy, convenient, and inexpensive alternative to welding, soldering, and brazing. J-B WELD is the smart way to repair something ... and for literally pennies per use. When welding or soldering is out of the question due to cost, down time for repairs, or technical/environmental considerations, J-B WELD is the answer. How does it work? J-B WELD is packaged in two tubes. One contains liquid steel/epoxy resin, and the other contains hardener. When mixed together in equal portions, a chemical reaction occurs that turns the mixture into a compound as hard and tough as steel -- and with similar properties. Properties (psi) Tensile Strength: 3960 Adhesion: 1800 Flex Strength: 7320 Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 Shrinkage: 0.0% Resistant to: 500° F Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated environments up to 500° F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy, and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money! Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other engine components which normally operate at temperatures above 500° F. How to use it: Use J-B WELD as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and electrical insulator. Squeeze out equal portions from the black and red tubes. Mix thoroughly. Clean surface to be bonded. Apply J-B WELD, and let it cure. That's all there is to it! Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water. (print instruction sheet) Uses What does it bond to? Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous material. Glass makers use it to glue glass marbles to wine stoppers (which get pulled on constantly), and it lasts nearly forever. You can get it anywhere, but I would get it at Amazon.com because they have very good descriptions, and it comes in several versions. I use the 8265, which is a 2 part epoxy, but I think for your purpose, you may want to consider the hand-kneadable version, which is JB Weld 8247 : www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8247-SteelStik/dp/B003S2A89A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1329016154&sr=1-1
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Post by paulshiroma on Feb 11, 2012 22:27:46 GMT -5
That you use it for joining glass to wine stoppers is interesting in and of itself. Learning stuff left and right on this forum thanks, Helen. I'd seen JB Weld at HomeDepot but never had a need, or at least so I thought. Tony, John, I like your solution better Easier overall since it's not leaking. I suspect the prior owner used water. I'll switch coolants instead. Thanks for the information on JBWeld and Devcon, gang! I really appreciate all the recommendations and advice! Paul
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Post by Woodyrock on Feb 13, 2012 2:17:06 GMT -5
Paul:
In the photograph, the material looks like corroded aluminium. I would also suggest a built up of J-B Weld. After a good cleaning/degreasing.
As an aside, my X brother-in-law a used car dealer. can and does fix anything on a car with the stuff, and seemingly without failure. Some of the ''repairs'' I saw him do were scary, but then I did tell you used car dealer.
Woody
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Feb 13, 2012 12:20:05 GMT -5
I used JB-Weld to repair a broken piece on an engine block in the coolant channel. It never leaked again that I know of. Great stuff.
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